newbie here...
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From: ct
newbie here...
hi i just purchased an 85 gls. couple questions. how do i know if i have a 12a or 13b? also i have 2g's to spend and i want to make this car a savage. what can i do to beef this thing up. thanks
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From: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Well, look at your engine... On the rotorhousings it says "12A" or "13B"... Also, if it has a blue airfilter canister, it's likely to be a 12A, if it has a intake plenum reading "EFI" or "Fuel Injection", it's probable 13B.
But shouldn't it say on the paperwork? Like 2.3 or 2.6 liters?
But shouldn't it say on the paperwork? Like 2.3 or 2.6 liters?
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From: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
if yours is a GLS, chances are it's a 12a.
12As look like this:
13Bs look like this:
as to what you can do to beef it up, first thing I'd suggest (once you figure out what size engine is actually in there) is a Racing Beat exhaust system (huge HP gains) and a K&N air filter (far less HP gain for far less cost, but better throttle response)
12As look like this:
13Bs look like this:
as to what you can do to beef it up, first thing I'd suggest (once you figure out what size engine is actually in there) is a Racing Beat exhaust system (huge HP gains) and a K&N air filter (far less HP gain for far less cost, but better throttle response)
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If it was a carbureted 4-port 13B, it would probably also have a blue air cleaner.
But, the rotor housings will be marked as our friend in Belgium stated.
I think if it was a 13B, you would probably not be in such a hurry to try to "beef it up".
Anyway, welcome to the forum! -WG
But, the rotor housings will be marked as our friend in Belgium stated.
I think if it was a 13B, you would probably not be in such a hurry to try to "beef it up".
Anyway, welcome to the forum! -WG
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From: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Originally posted by Keaponlaffen
1.1L = 12A
1.3L = 13B
Jeff
1.1L = 12A
1.3L = 13B
Jeff
So, they are ripping me of, stealing my money, so they can afford themselfs a stupid Mercedes S with driver. **** them...
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From: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) standards list them at 1.1 and 1.3 litres respectively, but I think (please correct me if I'm wrong) that Europe goes by DIN instead
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From: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
Originally posted by Manntis
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) standards list them at 1.1 and 1.3 litres respectively, but I think (please correct me if I'm wrong) that Europe goes by DIN instead
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) standards list them at 1.1 and 1.3 litres respectively, but I think (please correct me if I'm wrong) that Europe goes by DIN instead
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Originally posted by rotary emotions
You are very right. But that doesn't matter actually. Germany says: no cilinders=no cilinder displacement. So very cheap taxes... Holland goes for the weight, but calls them 1.1 and 1.3l engines. Belgium thinks you can never pay enough taxes, so they say it's a 2.3 or 2.6. Making $375 or $500 the annual road tax. If you have an FD, they make that $1100. (extra tax 'cause your car is TOO powerfull...)
You are very right. But that doesn't matter actually. Germany says: no cilinders=no cilinder displacement. So very cheap taxes... Holland goes for the weight, but calls them 1.1 and 1.3l engines. Belgium thinks you can never pay enough taxes, so they say it's a 2.3 or 2.6. Making $375 or $500 the annual road tax. If you have an FD, they make that $1100. (extra tax 'cause your car is TOO powerfull...)
Yea it does. Don't they have a 280hp limit on production cars in japan too?
BTW, its GSL, no GLS, not like it really matter cause we all know what your talking about. Just thought I'd throw that in there.
BTW, its GSL, no GLS, not like it really matter cause we all know what your talking about. Just thought I'd throw that in there.
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From: Elsenborn, Belgian Eifel
As far as I know that's a sort of volentary limit (not sure though)
As for Belgium, we also have a tax on buying a second hand car. Every time a car gets a new license plate, this tax must be payed. They just increased it a bit... My friend bought an FD, last year a 10 year 240hp (european FD=240hp) car was $60 tax, now that's $ 1200!!! He didn't like that...
All I can say is: there is a eason why politicians are called powerhungry, corrupt bastards overhere. As far as I'm concerned, they can crash a plane in there.
As for Belgium, we also have a tax on buying a second hand car. Every time a car gets a new license plate, this tax must be payed. They just increased it a bit... My friend bought an FD, last year a 10 year 240hp (european FD=240hp) car was $60 tax, now that's $ 1200!!! He didn't like that...
All I can say is: there is a eason why politicians are called powerhungry, corrupt bastards overhere. As far as I'm concerned, they can crash a plane in there.
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as to what you can do to beef it up, first thing I'd suggest (once you figure out what size engine is actually in there) is a Racing Beat exhaust system (huge HP gains) and a K&N air filter (far less HP gain for far less cost, but better throttle response)
) so how would this affect my smog test with an exhaust system like this? Sweet, thanks.
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From: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
er... I don't think it's smog-legal... but my Cali buddies use header exhausts, then swap in the stock stuff for testing, then swap back to headers etc.
Seems to be a pain in the patootie to me. Having Saskie plates on her, Pamela doesn't need to do the annual blow test
you can get the exhaust system directly from Racing Beat.
Seems to be a pain in the patootie to me. Having Saskie plates on her, Pamela doesn't need to do the annual blow test
you can get the exhaust system directly from Racing Beat.
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From: ct
thanks for the responses. that exaust sounds sweet, were can get one, what can i expect to pay nd what can i expectto gain. the k&n is a must but is there anyting else i can do to beef this thing up. o yeah its the 12a i got a bout 2g's to spend so i wanna do something for alot of hp increase. no turbo no juice.
