new to rotary world
Thread Starter
newbie
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: coeur d' alene, idaho
new to rotary world
i just felt like saying that im totaly new to the rotary world. therefore i have and 85 gsl-se (not running yet, need to clean fuel system up and fix radiator, sat for 7 years)...is there any advise that i could get to help me take care of this babes engine...its got 94000 miles on it. any advise will be appreciated. thank you
also it hasnt been ran yet but i fired it up for about 5 secs via starting fluid....
just want to see if it would run before i started fixing it up .
also it hasnt been ran yet but i fired it up for about 5 secs via starting fluid....
just want to see if it would run before i started fixing it up .
Last edited by cosmok123; Mar 26, 2005 at 08:50 PM. Reason: one more thing...
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 739
Likes: 0
From: NE Ohio
Rule number one of a rotary: Check the oil.
Rule number two: Check the oil.
Rule number three: Let it reach operating temperature before shutting it down again.
Rule number four: Check the oil.
Rule number five: Don't let it overheat, ever.
Rule number six: Check the oil.
Rule number two: Check the oil.
Rule number three: Let it reach operating temperature before shutting it down again.
Rule number four: Check the oil.
Rule number five: Don't let it overheat, ever.
Rule number six: Check the oil.
FB+FC=F-ME
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,353
Likes: 5
From: Rohnert Park CA
Welcome!Great find on the SE.Thats some pretty low milage considering the age.The SE engines are well known for their longevity,so dont be surprised if its still running strong at 200K miles.
For the most part,working on an RX-7 is easy.Except for the internal workings of the rotary engine,most everything on the car is conventional.That is to say,its not that dissimilar to other cars of the era.Dont be scared to work on the brakes,tranny,steering,tuneup,ect.Its no different than any mid 80's import car and the intervals for maintenence are similar with a few exceptions.....
Oil changes should be religious and done with non synthetic oil.Others may argue this,but Mazda's official stance is not to use synthetic.Unless your in a cold climate, 20W50 is good since rotaries are hard and hot with oil.Lots of guys like Castrol in rotaries.Every 3000 or less will keep the oil clean,which is important since the engine injects and burns the oil as a regular function to lube the apex seals and housings.Inject dirty oil and youll shorten the engine's lifespan.
Sparkplugs tend to wear out faster than regular cars.They are more expensive than standard plugs,but rotaries are very dependant on a good healthy spark in order to fire all their fuel.Stick with stock NGK plugs and check them every 8-10K miles.If your stock and dont thrash too hard,they can last 20K miles,but its good o keep them fresh.Keep an eye on the wires and cap/rotor as well.
Dont rev a rotary hard or load it up excessively when cold.A rotary engine is made from layers of housing stacked up like a sandwich.Each layer is of a dissimilar metal than the next....iron/aluminum/iron/aluminum,ect.Each metal type expands at a different rate.Apply too much heat too quickly and the layers will shear against each other,causing gasket/O-ring damage over time.Always warm the engine up with moderate/mild driving before getting on it.And speaking of getting on it,its good to wind a rotary out occasionally.Not only is it fun,but it helps to keep everything clear and carbon free.Just observe the factory 7000 RPM redline and you wont hurt a thing if the motor is healthy and cared for.If your daring,the commonly accepted "safe" RPM for stock rotor seals is considered to be 8500RPM.
Rotaries are low compression engines.They actually like low octane gas.87 is just fine and will actually make more power, being more volitile.Non turbo rotaries are quite hard to make detonate/ping,even on low octane gas,unless you fiddle with the timing,lug it hard,or dont maintain them.Just be sure to use a decent brand name 87 gas, like 76 or Chevron.
Rotaries need good cooling.They cant be overheated even once if you value your engine.A full 1/3 of the cooling comes from the oil,so get that crusty oil cooler below the radiator cleaned up.Some soap and a soft brush will remove a lot of the road crud.Use only a factory Mazda water thermostat and check all your hoses.Dont ever keep drving if the temp starts to get over 3/4 on the gauge.Dont push it because rotaries dont bounce back from overheating fits like piston engine can.
The GSL-SE can be quirky with its EFI.Its not really a rotary thing,mainly is just the fact that the metered air EFI is a bit complex compared to newer speed density types and its over 20 years old.Try to avoid any vacuum leaks by replacing old rubber lines.Have the 2 fuel injectors cleaned and balanced if you suspect thedy are leaking(bad gas milage/hot engine flooding after shutdown).Get a factory service manual if your gonna do any moderate/major work.Test and adjust the various EFI sensors like the TPS and AFM.And above all,ask questions.Many of the SE guys are quite familiar with the ins and outs of getting a crabby SE to idle and cruise smoothly.
For the most part,working on an RX-7 is easy.Except for the internal workings of the rotary engine,most everything on the car is conventional.That is to say,its not that dissimilar to other cars of the era.Dont be scared to work on the brakes,tranny,steering,tuneup,ect.Its no different than any mid 80's import car and the intervals for maintenence are similar with a few exceptions.....
Oil changes should be religious and done with non synthetic oil.Others may argue this,but Mazda's official stance is not to use synthetic.Unless your in a cold climate, 20W50 is good since rotaries are hard and hot with oil.Lots of guys like Castrol in rotaries.Every 3000 or less will keep the oil clean,which is important since the engine injects and burns the oil as a regular function to lube the apex seals and housings.Inject dirty oil and youll shorten the engine's lifespan.
Sparkplugs tend to wear out faster than regular cars.They are more expensive than standard plugs,but rotaries are very dependant on a good healthy spark in order to fire all their fuel.Stick with stock NGK plugs and check them every 8-10K miles.If your stock and dont thrash too hard,they can last 20K miles,but its good o keep them fresh.Keep an eye on the wires and cap/rotor as well.
Dont rev a rotary hard or load it up excessively when cold.A rotary engine is made from layers of housing stacked up like a sandwich.Each layer is of a dissimilar metal than the next....iron/aluminum/iron/aluminum,ect.Each metal type expands at a different rate.Apply too much heat too quickly and the layers will shear against each other,causing gasket/O-ring damage over time.Always warm the engine up with moderate/mild driving before getting on it.And speaking of getting on it,its good to wind a rotary out occasionally.Not only is it fun,but it helps to keep everything clear and carbon free.Just observe the factory 7000 RPM redline and you wont hurt a thing if the motor is healthy and cared for.If your daring,the commonly accepted "safe" RPM for stock rotor seals is considered to be 8500RPM.
Rotaries are low compression engines.They actually like low octane gas.87 is just fine and will actually make more power, being more volitile.Non turbo rotaries are quite hard to make detonate/ping,even on low octane gas,unless you fiddle with the timing,lug it hard,or dont maintain them.Just be sure to use a decent brand name 87 gas, like 76 or Chevron.
Rotaries need good cooling.They cant be overheated even once if you value your engine.A full 1/3 of the cooling comes from the oil,so get that crusty oil cooler below the radiator cleaned up.Some soap and a soft brush will remove a lot of the road crud.Use only a factory Mazda water thermostat and check all your hoses.Dont ever keep drving if the temp starts to get over 3/4 on the gauge.Dont push it because rotaries dont bounce back from overheating fits like piston engine can.
The GSL-SE can be quirky with its EFI.Its not really a rotary thing,mainly is just the fact that the metered air EFI is a bit complex compared to newer speed density types and its over 20 years old.Try to avoid any vacuum leaks by replacing old rubber lines.Have the 2 fuel injectors cleaned and balanced if you suspect thedy are leaking(bad gas milage/hot engine flooding after shutdown).Get a factory service manual if your gonna do any moderate/major work.Test and adjust the various EFI sensors like the TPS and AFM.And above all,ask questions.Many of the SE guys are quite familiar with the ins and outs of getting a crabby SE to idle and cruise smoothly.
Last edited by steve84GS TII; Mar 26, 2005 at 09:59 PM.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 564
Likes: 0
From: SF CALI
Originally Posted by nevarmore
Rule number one of a rotary: Check the oil.
Rule number two: Check the oil.
Rule number three: Let it reach operating temperature before shutting it down again.
Rule number four: Check the oil.
Rule number five: Don't let it overheat, ever.
Rule number six: Check the oil.
Rule number two: Check the oil.
Rule number three: Let it reach operating temperature before shutting it down again.
Rule number four: Check the oil.
Rule number five: Don't let it overheat, ever.
Rule number six: Check the oil.
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Thread Starter
newbie
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: coeur d' alene, idaho
thanks alot for your advice guys!
this will for sure help me get this car in up and running condition, without destroying the engine hehe.
i know nothing about rotarys but now im starting to see the light ..thx alot and ill keep reading if more advice comes up and i hope to get some pics up for you of my new baby. 
thanks again!
this will for sure help me get this car in up and running condition, without destroying the engine hehe.
i know nothing about rotarys but now im starting to see the light
..thx alot and ill keep reading if more advice comes up and i hope to get some pics up for you of my new baby. thanks again!
TACOCAT
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,042
Likes: 2
From: Milky Way
Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Welcome!Great find on the SE.Thats some pretty low milage considering the age.The SE engines are well known for their longevity,so dont be surprised if its still running strong at 200K miles.
For the most part,working on an RX-7 is easy.Except for the internal workings of the rotary engine,most everything on the car is conventional.That is to say,its not that dissimilar to other cars of the era.Dont be scared to work on the brakes,tranny,steering,tuneup,ect.Its no different than any mid 80's import car and the intervals for maintenence are similar with a few exceptions.....
Oil changes should be religious and done with non synthetic oil.Others may argue this,but Mazda's official stance is not to use synthetic.Unless your in a cold climate, 20W50 is good since rotaries are hard and hot with oil.Lots of guys like Castrol in rotaries.Every 3000 or less will keep the oil clean,which is important since the engine injects and burns the oil as a regular function to lube the apex seals and housings.Inject dirty oil and youll shorten the engine's lifespan.
Sparkplugs tend to wear out faster than regular cars.They are more expensive than standard plugs,but rotaries are very dependant on a good healthy spark in order to fire all their fuel.Stick with stock NGK plugs and check them every 8-10K miles.If your stock and dont thrash too hard,they can last 20K miles,but its good o keep them fresh.Keep an eye on the wires and cap/rotor as well.
Dont rev a rotary hard or load it up excessively when cold.A rotary engine is made from layers of housing stacked up like a sandwich.Each layer is of a dissimilar metal than the next....iron/aluminum/iron/aluminum,ect.Each metal type expands at a different rate.Apply too much heat too quickly and the layers will shear against each other,causing gasket/O-ring damage over time.Always warm the engine up with moderate/mild driving before getting on it.And speaking of getting on it,its good to wind a rotary out occasionally.Not only is it fun,but it helps to keep everything clear and carbon free.Just observe the factory 7000 RPM redline and you wont hurt a thing if the motor is healthy and cared for.If your daring,the commonly accepted "safe" RPM for stock rotor seals is considered to be 8500RPM.
Rotaries are low compression engines.They actually like low octane gas.87 is just fine and will actually make more power, being more volitile.Non turbo rotaries are quite hard to make detonate/ping,even on low octane gas,unless you fiddle with the timing,lug it hard,or dont maintain them.Just be sure to use a decent brand name 87 gas, like 76 or Chevron.
Rotaries need good cooling.They cant be overheated even once if you value your engine.A full 1/3 of the cooling comes from the oil,so get that crusty oil cooler below the radiator cleaned up.Some soap and a soft brush will remove a lot of the road crud.Use only a factory Mazda water thermostat and check all your hoses.Dont ever keep drving if the temp starts to get over 3/4 on the gauge.Dont push it because rotaries dont bounce back from overheating fits like piston engine can.
The GSL-SE can be quirky with its EFI.Its not really a rotary thing,mainly is just the fact that the metered air EFI is a bit complex compared to newer speed density types and its over 20 years old.Try to avoid any vacuum leaks by replacing old rubber lines.Have the 2 fuel injectors cleaned and balanced if you suspect thedy are leaking(bad gas milage/hot engine flooding after shutdown).Get a factory service manual if your gonna do any moderate/major work.Test and adjust the various EFI sensors like the TPS and AFM.And above all,ask questions.Many of the SE guys are quite familiar with the ins and outs of getting a crabby SE to idle and cruise smoothly.
For the most part,working on an RX-7 is easy.Except for the internal workings of the rotary engine,most everything on the car is conventional.That is to say,its not that dissimilar to other cars of the era.Dont be scared to work on the brakes,tranny,steering,tuneup,ect.Its no different than any mid 80's import car and the intervals for maintenence are similar with a few exceptions.....
Oil changes should be religious and done with non synthetic oil.Others may argue this,but Mazda's official stance is not to use synthetic.Unless your in a cold climate, 20W50 is good since rotaries are hard and hot with oil.Lots of guys like Castrol in rotaries.Every 3000 or less will keep the oil clean,which is important since the engine injects and burns the oil as a regular function to lube the apex seals and housings.Inject dirty oil and youll shorten the engine's lifespan.
Sparkplugs tend to wear out faster than regular cars.They are more expensive than standard plugs,but rotaries are very dependant on a good healthy spark in order to fire all their fuel.Stick with stock NGK plugs and check them every 8-10K miles.If your stock and dont thrash too hard,they can last 20K miles,but its good o keep them fresh.Keep an eye on the wires and cap/rotor as well.
Dont rev a rotary hard or load it up excessively when cold.A rotary engine is made from layers of housing stacked up like a sandwich.Each layer is of a dissimilar metal than the next....iron/aluminum/iron/aluminum,ect.Each metal type expands at a different rate.Apply too much heat too quickly and the layers will shear against each other,causing gasket/O-ring damage over time.Always warm the engine up with moderate/mild driving before getting on it.And speaking of getting on it,its good to wind a rotary out occasionally.Not only is it fun,but it helps to keep everything clear and carbon free.Just observe the factory 7000 RPM redline and you wont hurt a thing if the motor is healthy and cared for.If your daring,the commonly accepted "safe" RPM for stock rotor seals is considered to be 8500RPM.
Rotaries are low compression engines.They actually like low octane gas.87 is just fine and will actually make more power, being more volitile.Non turbo rotaries are quite hard to make detonate/ping,even on low octane gas,unless you fiddle with the timing,lug it hard,or dont maintain them.Just be sure to use a decent brand name 87 gas, like 76 or Chevron.
Rotaries need good cooling.They cant be overheated even once if you value your engine.A full 1/3 of the cooling comes from the oil,so get that crusty oil cooler below the radiator cleaned up.Some soap and a soft brush will remove a lot of the road crud.Use only a factory Mazda water thermostat and check all your hoses.Dont ever keep drving if the temp starts to get over 3/4 on the gauge.Dont push it because rotaries dont bounce back from overheating fits like piston engine can.
The GSL-SE can be quirky with its EFI.Its not really a rotary thing,mainly is just the fact that the metered air EFI is a bit complex compared to newer speed density types and its over 20 years old.Try to avoid any vacuum leaks by replacing old rubber lines.Have the 2 fuel injectors cleaned and balanced if you suspect thedy are leaking(bad gas milage/hot engine flooding after shutdown).Get a factory service manual if your gonna do any moderate/major work.Test and adjust the various EFI sensors like the TPS and AFM.And above all,ask questions.Many of the SE guys are quite familiar with the ins and outs of getting a crabby SE to idle and cruise smoothly.
Great post!!!!
Thread Starter
newbie
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: coeur d' alene, idaho
i second the notion for a great post...should be in the faq section for newbie maitence questions! (sorry if alrady in there cant remember 
)
)
Last edited by cosmok123; Mar 26, 2005 at 10:38 PM. Reason: mispelling
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