Hi my name is matt! I am new to the club and Rx7 overall. So I do have a few rookie questions

I am going to pick up a yellow FB tommorow! Its a 1985 model, I am not sure if which model FB it is but as long as it runs I dont really care.

If I get it I am going to post some pics here.

Ok now for the questions:

I searched the faq and I couldnt find any info on the amount of oil I should use.

I am used to 4cyl cars like the ae86 and s13 but I never did anything on a rotary before.

Thanks!

 

5.1 quarts on the 12a 6.1 on the 13b if you are lucky enough to have one of those

 

just bein curious but...why are you askin about how much oil to use if u dont even have the car? planning to do a oilchange right away or something?

 

5.1 quarts in a 12a? o damn...ive been putting in 4 qts...good thing i have the extra bottle in the hatch.

 

Welcome to the darkside

 

Yup! I dont trust the guy even if he says he just did the oil change. Plus he did it in a 10 min. Jiffy Lube

The shortest time I did an oil change was for almost 2 hrs. I need it to be free of any particles.

Damn, 5.1 quarts! Jeez! Oh well at least I dont have to use synthetic oils!

 

well its not recommended to use synthetic oils in rotary engines...but i do works (10-30) great but then next oil change ill use regular oil.

 

5 quarts? I've never seen a 12A oil pan hold that much. 4 quarts fills it just fine. And with a 13B, my S5 is perfect at 4.75 quarts. Too much oil blows oil seals. There's a huhe debate about synthetics in rotaries. I've ran them with no consequence. Good recommended weights are 20w50 for summer and 10w30 for winter. 2 hours is a bit much for an oil change, it usually takes me more time to get the cars in the air then it does to change the oil. If you're worried about metal particals you can buy a magnetized drain plug that will pull any particles from the pan.

 

The capacities listed for a 13b is when you change everything including the oil cooler. Same thing goes for the 12a with the FMOC. Generally you are putting in 4.5 qts.

 

that what the manuals say so that what ive been going by

 

And that is correct for "Total" capacity only, including the oil cooler. But not on a regular oil change where most are not draining the oil cooler. I hope you have not been adding 6.1 qts to that engine.

 

Ok I'll just put in 4.5 Qtz just to be sure.

Hmm 2 hours is too long huh lol? I usually let the oil drip all night until its clean as whistle (sorry for the gay anaology). My autoclass teacher highly recommends longer oil drip everytime I ask so I just do it like that I guess.



Yeah I have a magnetc drain plug for my ae86. I am gonna pick one up as soon as I get an fb.

Thanks

 

Don't even start on this subject until you have done some extensive reading and research, including the early history of the rotary engine. Feet are not very tasty and can be difficult to remove from one's mouth.

As stated, the owner's manual and the FSM lists total oil capacity. There is always some residual oil left in the cooler and the oil pan. Start with 4 qts. then check the dip stick. I have yet to pour in 5 qts. on an oil change.

Letting the oil drip out overnight isn't necessary. Most important thing is to have the engine and oil up to operating temps prior to draining and using a good filter. Change both oil and filter every 3k miles.

Welcome to the forum and the Darkside. In my sig line are some useful links, including one to the online FSMs, carb manual and other rotary related reading. Download what ever you need and read read read.
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Id rather think of us being in harmony with the (((((FORCE))))) ,,,its the up and down crowd that is the darkside.

Hey thats why they include a dipstick with the engine... use the above info as a guide but fill the the full line on the dipstick please...

If you like to let it drip be my guest,,,at worst it cant hurt anything...

 

just put the front end on jackstands to speed up the dripping and have the driver's side up one notch.

 

I have had my 83 12A for 12 years and have always put in 4.75 quarts of High Mileage GTX with a new filter. Takes me to a perfect fill every time! I find that if I change the oil and filter every 3K or less then I don't have any issues with trash and particles in my oil anyway...but that's just me.

 

Ok I checked out the car today.

I decided not too get it mainly because it overheated before and it has to have A LOT OF LOVING to the car(ie. Money) The body was fine and all but it was plaugued with problems that makes it a headache.

BUT Dont worry because I am looking at another one in wednesday!


Price is $300

Wish me luck!

 

If money is a concern, I'd start looking for Civics. An RX-7 needs alot of love and strict maintenance. The rotary bug is deadly, you will dump more money than you ever wanted to into it, it's part of the addiction

 

Word, seemed a little high for me too, i always put 4 quarts in then check and end up putting half a quart more, im just affraid i might get flamed for being a newb lol.

Next time im gonna put my neck out

 

Also to everyone. After you've put in your oil, start the car, let the oil pressure come up, shut it down, and let it sit for a few minutes and then check your oil level and add accordingly. You need to fill the oil filter to get an accurate pan reading

 

2 hours for an oil change? hell, id be pissed if it took me longer than 15 minutes. thats with me taking my time. the most time consuming part is getting it on ramps due to its heght. NOT ANY MORE!!! i got some ramps designed just for low cars

i always use mobil 1 5K or 7.5K oil and change it every 3K.

 

You have my interest peaked with these low car ramps

 

Who needs to jack it up, lol? I can change my oil from the engine bay from top...

 

Well you see, I am very picky with the condition of cars. The engine actually wouldnt be a problem but the work restoring the body will be the BIGGEST hurdle for me. Here is a list of the problems:

Well rust HOLES not spots but holes are already eating away at the body. The car has no windows (besides the windshield) because some jerk broke them the instruments are flikering when the car is on, transmission is very very hard, the car overheated (Which I read is very bad for rotary's) and there is a ******* laundry list more of problems plauging the car.

I just dont want to waste my time with dealing with these problems.

Also why would the rx7 be a money pit? I always take care of my cars. My ae86 already has 367,000 miles on it already and it still runs perfect. I do VERY strict and **** mantenance on all my cars and it seems to be working great.

I even have a calendar in my garage for my schedule with the cars. So I dont think it should be a problem. Plus I have saved up another $1000 just in case something breaks or something happens.

 

Beware of rust under the bins behind the seats, that is the worst place and very difficult to repair, have the seller remove the bins and check them yourself.

Otherwise I've have about 8 FBs now and none have ever died without my help, ran into another car in one, that did it, but still drove it home, they are simple, strong and fun, everything on it is easily repaired and a great way to learn mechanical repair skills.

Change the fuel filter, get either NGK or Denso plugs, use quality oil (I use Synthetic) and drive the hell out of her. If it sat for a long time, do a search on bringing it back to life.
Welcome to the dark side....