bennett

Hey all.

Any recs on a new suspension? Mostly street. Looking cheap.

Thanks.
-Bennett

Denny

Howdy, Buckaroo...

Are your front struts okay...If not replace 'em....Otherwise, replace your idler arm bushing. It's probably pretty well used up, especially if it's the original. Next go get some Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. Get the whole set for the front end. Next, go get yourself some new tie-rod ends, and ball-joints. After you've done this, don't forget to get an alignment. Now your car will handle completely different. Next step is to do the same with the rear suspension...

Best to yuh, Cowboy...
Ride easy...
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...

Suparslinc

I bought some Tokico non-adjusts from Mazdatrix. It was about $350 and the improvement is incredible over stock. Not too stiff ride, minimal body roll, hardly any squat or dive; the only thing I noticed was sometimes the rear would "bounce" over certain types of roadways. This is a great way to lay the foundation for other suspension mods.
Joe

Viperx7

iTrader: (4)

I've got KYB's on mine and have never had any problem with them. You can pick them up at Advance Auto Parts rather cheaply. I would suggest that if you are going to change the shocks/struts, I would go ahead and put new springs in also. It will save time/money doing them at the same time instead of deciding to do it later. I've got Tokicos, but there are Energy Suspension, Eibach, Intrax and several others. I agree with the others about the bushing kits, idler arm bushings. They will definately make a difference. Also check the rear control links(name?). The 2 bars on either side that attach the rear end to the car. They are notorious for getting bent. Sometimes you can straighten them out but I did have to replace 1 that was half moon shaped.
Good luck!

Pittdp

I am using Eibachs which are great for the smooth roads but my teeth rattle on the back roads that are full of pot holes. If I was to get springs again I would probly go with Front Suspension Techniques.
I also use KYB's and love them.
Here is some links for springs and ratings.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/h4579-85.htm

bennett

I'm thinking about going for the Tokico struts and Racing beat springs. Maybe at some time put in those sway bars. A lot of $$.

What's involved in installing them? I've done a ton of electrical work (EE major), but I'm a little iffy on how to start on these susp. jobs. ANy tips, manuals?

Thanks for your help.

Viperx7

iTrader: (4)

It's not real complicated, but you gotta have all the right tools. The rear is easy. The front requires a little more effort. You gotta have spring compressors and such. Easiest way to do it is get everything you need(springs/shocks/struts) and find someone to do it for you.

TheSaint007

Ok, I was told after doing my suspension completely that I would hate the ride and my teeth would rattle out, granted there is alot more bounce to it but CONTROLLABLE bounce, not the swaying and squishy boat ride bounce of the stock. Heres what I installed and I got all this for 500.00, (also full RB header exhaust system, triangulated RB strut tower brace, RB torque brace, 3 row radiator, oil cooler, and various other odds and ends); I installed all the energy suspension bushings in the rear, 100% replaced with poly, replaced the strut braces up front with poly, put front and rear anti sway bars by ST, all four new ST springs (lowered 1"), 4 new tokico blues, and new brakes. Now the car handles like a friggin Porsche 911 and sofar no binding whatsoever! with the triangulated strut brace, and all the suspension I am totally a curve hugging freak now And my high speed controllabiltiy has just risen to Godly proportions Off the subject a little, anyone want a brand new Racing Beat torque brace for the bell housing? It's for bracing the engine twist during acceleration and the likes...I'll sell it for 65.00 shipped, still in baggies and all!

wickyc

Yeah if you are poor like me the best way is to just keep your stock shocks (if bad replace with OEM) and install the full polyurethane bushing kit. It runs about $25-30 last time I checked for front and rear. If you do decide to get shocks like these other guys said get a professional to do it. Swapping shocks sucks even when you have all the specialized tools to do so, (automotive technician grad) but lucky for us that these cars are a walk in the park to align Ive personally done mine twice so you wont get charged too much for an hourly rate at a shop for an alignment, unless they charge a flat rate then your going to pay the same either way.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Agreed that the best way to do the front is with a proper spring compressor (one where the spring has NO chance of shooting out, or else say bye bye limbs). But the way I did my front springs on my car was kind of cheating and it worked. I used a angle grinder and cut the front springs so there was no tension left. Then I pulled off the large strut tower bolt and pulled out the old chunks of spring. Simply put the new on in and it takes a floor jack positioned under it and the front sway bar disconnected to get the thing positioned back in. It seemed to work pretty good, but make sure you have safety glasses on if you are cutting the springs.

My current suspension setup consists of Racing beat springs, tokico blue struts, racing beat front sway bar, and a CP racing 4 point strut tower bar. I have had a VERY small amount of time in the driver seat, but the handling is incredible. The front of the car is very stiff and the stance of the car is very nice.

dantheman

iTrader: (4)

Right now the drivers side of the car sits lower then the passenger side. I think the springs on that side are weaker, as the shocks don't feal blown at all. If I have to change out the springs, I don't want any siffer, as I have a car like that and my wife refuses to ride in it now. :P

The ST springs have a softer spring rate, but they are progressive? (thus the 80/120 rating) Anyone have any experience with them?

Or, should I just change out the front end bushings and the shocks and see what happens?