Hellow everyone. I am new to this sight as I am a new rx7 owner. I just purchased a 1984. It's in good condition. I would like it to be near mint some day. My first question is about the Mikuni carb on it. I have the 13b motor and there is about 5k miles on it and it runs strong but it sort of boges down in the low rpm range. It is great in the 3000+ range but I can't drive like that all the time. I don't know the model number on the carb and I don't want to remove it to find out. I read something that said that it may be jetted for a 12a motor. If anyone can help this is the first step I want to take. Thanks.

 

5k on it! how much u get it 4?

 

There is about 5k on the new motor. The car has 108,000. What do u think I should have paid?

 

2500 maybe?

If the motor is ported, it may not make any power till then. I know my mild street port is a turd below 3k. Try a tune-up, ie, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, oil change. I recommend Royal Purple, or Red Line oil if you can find it.

Please don't flame me on the synthetic. I use it, and I have no problem.

 

Ummm... you stated that you're new to rotary engine cars, so I'll make this brief;

The rotary engine does not have a lot of rotating mass (certainly less than your average piston engine), therefore, at low engine RPM, you will not have much torque at all. Anything below about 4k rpm and you're just starting to get onto the torque curve, which tops out at about 5,5k rpm and flat through to the redline (no power above that without porting/intake mods/exhaust mods).

With that in mind, you really CAN drive this car around at 3k rpm at cruise without having to worry about overrevving that little engine of yours. Besides, from your initial post, it sounds like you have a 13b, which has larger, heavier rotors and actually develops better torque due to this slight change. If you also have a '6'-port motor with a carb, you'll also have the benefit of 'tuned-induction' above 3,8k rpm due to the increased intake tract available through the '6'-port sleeves (search on that for more info).

All in all, I wouldn't be too concerned about the percieved lack of torque at lower rpm's, since you'll really need to adjust your driving style to take advantage of the free-revving rotary engine design.

On my 84SE (13b EFI engine), the 'sweet-spot' is right at 3k rpm and 50mph in 4th gear. At this engine rpm and gearing, it is smooth, fuel efficient, and has instantly available power if you jump on the gas pedal to change lanes. This is the very base of the 13b EFI '6'-port engine's torque curve, which accounts for it's good throttle response.

Drive the car some, and try driving it at different rpm and gearing. I think you'll like what you find. HTH,

 

I paid 1500 for the car. Was that too much? It could use a paint job but it has never had one. It has a new motor ( 5k on it), new clutch. mikuni carb, header and tuned pipe, aftermarket rims and brand new kumo tires. The down side is it dosen't have an air conditioner or a windshiel washer fluid assembly. One of the two previous owners removed both. Also, the stock raido is dead. Feel free to give me some constructive critisism. Don't worry you won't hurt my feelings.

 

You suck. Good deal though. I stole mine for 900, but it has a dowel pin leak. But these guys have no clue as to what they are talking about. You should goto the corvette forum. Those guys know some rotaries.


But seriously its true about the torque. I run at about 4k on the freeway in 4th gear just so i know i will have power when i need it.

 

$1500 for the car is a pretty good deal if it's in good running condition, which sounds like it is. Paint won't help you go faster, stop faster, or get better fuel economy, so let it be the last upgrade that you perform. For now, focus on the mechanics of the car so that you have a reliable car to get you where you want to go.

Have a look at your basic systems and see if there's anything that's in really bad shape and needs to get fixed soon or leave you stranded. This might include belts, hoses, radiator, thermostat now that it's summertime hot. Maybe look at your tires and brakes and see what condition they're in. Is your steering crisp and precise? Does your car drip oil at all?

All of these things can be cured with a little ingenuity, money, and time, and will lead to a satisfying relationship with your rotary powered car.

Having washers that work can be accomplished by a quick trip over to www.mazdatrix.com or www.victoriabritish.com and spending some time looking at parts that you think might be important. My front washers haven't worked in about 4 years, but hey, it's Arizona!

I don't know what tigosurf is talking about with re; corvette forum, but spending some time looking at the car in-depth will help you to learn something about rotary cars. HTH,

 

not a bad deal, no air con is better IMO. No need 4 it aslong as u got some venting to the outside. plass it saves a bit of weight. Not a bad buy.

tjgosurf-wats this bout the vet forums? how the hell can they know more than some of the ppl on here? they don't own 7's. Plus they will just say our cars suck and and point him the v8 way, we don't want that. Just my 2c.

 

i think my sarcasm is lost over the net.

 

ok, i get it now. And yes it was lost. its a shame we cant just tell what voice tone ppl use.......i guess thats sorta what smiles are for.

 

TRY REBELLO RACING IN PACHERO, CA. 925-674-0130
FOR YOUR MIKUNI NEEDS. THEY BOUGHT ALL OF THE CAR DIVISION PARTS WHEN MIKUNI DISCONTINUED THE
LINE. IN ORDER TO MAKE GOOD POWER IN THE 13B THE NEEDLE SEAT HAS TO BE A 2.0 OR LARGER. THEY ALSO HAVE A GUY THERE THAT CAN HELP WITH THE JETTING FOR A 13B.

 

General netiquette...
CAPS IS SHOUTING...as if you're trying to make a point and/or are angry...please don't shout dude!