grease

I know that this has been asked before...but...does anyone still have a copy of the installation instructions for the CarTech blow through turbo with the single weber carb??

grease

For the 39 or so who bothered to read this post, I finally found my original set of CarTech Instructions. It is far too many pages to post here (almost 40 pages), and some info is outdated (specific to the air to water intercooler system) so I did a condensed version that covers the basic and most important steps. Hope this helps anyone trying to turbocharge a 1st generation RX7.

CarTech Turbocharger Installation Instructions for Mazda RX-7 12A or 13B Engine
Blow Through Weber single carburetor 40mm IDF
(Condensed version)

1. Major Components (not including intercooler components):
CarTech Intake Manifold
Weber 40 IDF Carburetor
CarTech Plenum with anti surge valve, associated tubing, air filter mount and K&N air filter
CarTech Exhaust Manifold
RayJay T04 Turbocharger
RayJay Wastegate
Stainless Steel Heat Shield
Bosch Electric Fuel Pump
Solex Fuel Pressure Regulator


2. Preparation:

Drain engine oil and coolant from radiator. Remove intake manifold with carburetor and omp linkage, all emissions equipment except the charcoal canister, remove the glycol injector. Remove exhaust manifold, exhaust system and oil pan. Remove all under hood fuel and vacuum lines. Remove the radiator overflow container and relocate it to the passenger side strut tower. Remove the front engine lift hook, drill a 1/4" hole approximately 3/4" directly above the existing mount hole. Install a 1/4' x 3/4" bolt in the new hole. Reinstall the engine lift hook in it's original position.
Drill a 3/4" hole in the side of the oil pan directly above the oil drain hole. Install the turbo oil return line fitting into the oil pan. Reinstall the oil pan. Remove the banjo bolt from the oil cooler line on the left rear of the engine. Drill and tap the bolt to accept a -2 fitting. Install the fitting and replace the banjo bolt using new crush washers. Remove the stockfuel pump and replace with the new Bosch pump, which easily mounts in the stock location. Replace all fuel lines and clamps with new FI rated lines and clamps.

3. Installation of the CarTech components

Mount the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold. Make sure that the oil inlet and discharge on the turbo unit are at 12 and 6 o'clock respectively. IT IS NOT NECESSARY to use a gasket between turbo and manifold unless the manifold or turbo has been modified or changed. Original CarTech components require no gasket. Mount the wastegate to the manifold. Again, no gasket is required unless components have been changed or modified.

Mount the exhaust manifold / turbo / wastegate assembly to the motor, using the original studs, washers and nuts. The stainless steel heat shield mounts to the two top engine studs for the exhaust manifold. Torque the manifold to original factory specifications (23 to 34 ft lb). Install the wastegate downpipe and turbo headpipe. Reconnect
exhaust system. Connect the -2 stainless braid oil line from the banjo fitting to the turbo oil inlet, and the turbo oil discharge to the drain fitting on the oil pan above the drain plug. (NOTE: do not attempt to connect the turbo oil drain to the front engine cover in this application. The oil drain is gravity feed, and the turbo drain outlet will be lower than the oil line fitting in the front cover, causing oil to back up in the turbo).

Assemble the intake manifold components. The intake manifold has provisions for 2 hose barbs. Install the 5/16 brass hose barb into the tapped hole on the outboard rear of the manifold. Install the 5/32 brass hose barb into the tapped hole in the inboard front of the manifold. Install the omp cable housing to the tapped hole on the front top of the manifold flange. The "J" fitting should be set at a 45 degree angle to the mounting surface of the manifold, facing towards the rear of the engine.

Install the intake manifold to the engine using a new gasket and O rings. Feed the OMP cable through the OMP lever into the cable housing, and through the small hole at the bottom of the throttle cable bracket. Install the carburetor using new gaskets. Attach the OMP cable into the lower arm of the carburetor, leaving about 1/10" slack, and attach the throttle cable and cruise control cable to the upper arm. Attach the choke cable to the carburetor. Check all cables for binding and full range of movement. Install the brake boost vacuum line from the 5/16 fitting on the outboard rear of the manifold to the steel line for the brake vacuum boost. Attach the OMP lines to the hose barbs on the inboard side of the carburetor, located about midway on each carburetor barrel.

Install the SOLEX fuel pressure regulator, using new FI rated hoses. Connect the fuel return line to the bottom of the FPR, the fuel inlet from the tank to the small fitting on the side of the FPR, and the larger side fitting to the carburetor fuel inlet. Connect the crankcase vent located in the center housing below the oil filler tube to the steel line to the vacuum canister. Connect a vacuum hose (5/32) to the vacuum hose barb on the inboard front of the manifold. Route this line to a 4 way "T" fitting, then from the 4 way "T" fitting to (a) boost gauge; (b) cruise control. The last line will be installed later.

Connect the distributor vacuum advance line to the fitting (or fittings, there may be two of these, one on each flange) on the outboard side of the base flange of the carburetor and route to the distributor. Split this line with a "T" and connect to each vacuum port on the distributor. Now connect a vacuum line from the fitting on the outboard rear barrel of the
carbuerator about 3/4" above the mounting flange to the anti surge valve on the outboard side of the plenum. Connect another vacuum line from the side fitting on the wastegate to a "T" fitting, then to the smaller side of the "T" on the rear of the plenum. Now connect the open end of the "T" between the wastegate and plenum to the last open line of the 4 way "T" fitting that connects to the boost gauge and cruise control. Connect the larger end of the "T" on the rear of the plenum to the vacuum (top) fitting on the FPR. The final vacuum line connection is made from the front underside of the plenum to a "T", then to the carburetor choke inlet and to the oil filler tube vent. An inline PCV valve may be installed between the "T" and the oil filler tube vent. (NOTE: this last is different from CarTech's original instructions... The original instructions are to connect this line to the choke only, and to splice the oil filler tube vent and the crankcase vent on the center housing together and route to the charcoal cannister. This works, but causes the accumulation of "lung mustard" inside oil filler tube. Routing these lined as described above and adding an inline PCV valve prevents this accumulation of oil and moisture).

BE SURE TO SECURE ALL VACUUM AND FUEL LINES WITH PROPER CLAMPS (USE OF CABLE TIES FOR SMALL VACUUM LINES IS SUFFICIENT)

Mount the air filter housing here the radiator overflow cannister was originally mounted, connect the air intake from the turbo to the rear of the air filter housing, connect the anti surge valve tubing from the plenum to the rear of the air filter housing, and connect the air filter to the front of the housing. Connect the boost tubing from the turbo to the plenum. Double and triple check all connections, replace oil and coolant, start the motor and check for leaks....BOOST and enjoy.




Due to the age and attrition, many available kits may have components that are unservicable or missing. Substitute components such as turbo's (just about any T04 unit) , wastegates (must use the RayJay footprint... such as the Tial 38mm or the Deltagate work well in place of the original RayJay), intake manifold (any for the Weber IDF or IDA series
should work, but may not have provision for the OMP cable), carburetor (again, any Weber IDF or IDA series. Note: CarTech originally used a 44mm IDF carb, but switched to a 40MM unit, because they claimed that it flowed better under boost than the 44mm unit). Almost any FI rated electric fuel pump can be substitited for the Bosch unit which was factory equipment for a 1976 to 1979 Volvo 240 and currently costs in the $400 range to replace. The MSD 2225 is a good replacement and costs about $92.00 from Summit. The most important or "must have" components needed to assemble a true "CarTech" turbo system are the original plenum, air filter mount and exhaust manifold. All other parts can be replaced with improved more up to date components.

web777

Thanks! I'll pay to have it scanned.