I started to install my stainless steel lines and new pads today and ran into a lot of ****.

two of the pads, one on each side, were brocken apart. and the rotor has some damage. I got the calaper off just fine but I cant get the second part off. The kind of brace that the calaper bolts to. (82 is that matters)

The haynes manuel sucks *** on everything, this included.

there is a peice in the way that connects the strut to the steering system has a bolt that looks like it can be removed.

Can I remove this, or how do I get this brace off. any special tool I can buy to get it off.

I have to finish this by noon sunday.

Please help.

 

I assume you're talking about the bottom brake caliper bracket mounting bolt.

There's two ways you can do this. Either unbolt the knuckle arm from the strut to gain access or find a suitable offset box wrench. You might have to grind it down to fit in there.

 

if I unbolt that knuckle arm, which I would rather do. Will it affect my alingment. Thats what Im worried about.

I am thinking I will just throw the new pads on it temporaly because the short amount of time I have. I would put hawk pads on later and get tge rotor lathed.

Is this okay or do I HAVE to get them lathed.

 

Unbolting the knuckle arm won't effect your alignment in any way.

What are the rotors like? If there's no visible scoring and whatnot I guess you could just throw the pads on. Up to you.

 

oh theres visable scoring, that bolt is a bitch to get off, i have to get a big cheater bar or something to get it off.

 

I had similar problems when I did my brakes a few weeks ago. I found the esiest solution is to get a offset "s" wrench and use that. Try not to take the bolt all the way out becuase it will be difficult to get back in afterwards.

 

i just broke off the bolt that holds on that knuckle arm, ****, I dont know if the cars going to be done in time now.
does that arm drop down when Its unbolted, if it does I might be able to knock it off and then get a vice grip on there.

 

i feel for you. my rotors are pitted from heavy rust and i was going to take them off to get them turned until i got to that bolt. f that. i'll let the pads work at it.

 

i just bought a craftsman wrench that took those caleper brace bolts off with no problem, it was like a $11 wrench though, what a rip off.

What am I going to do about that bolt, it looks like the whole assembly is welded(by rust) together.

When I broke that off(and its just the caps and about 2 mill of shaft) I had a wrench and 3 feet of exhaust tubing and when It finally turned I heard this loud snap sound,

I think its probably fine but I am still going to try and fix it.

Also, I will be installing my new struts and springs in a week, does this bolt have to come off to do that.

 

Guys this is really easy, just remove the top bolt, and move the bracket back and forth untill you loosen the bolts grip a little, then hold with a open end 12mm (?) wrench and move the bracket, use the wrench to hold the bolt and the bracket for leverage... Once you turn it as far as you can, dont hold the wrench, and move the bracket. Hold the wrench again and move the bracket and it will loosen the bolt a little more, keep repeating until its real loose, then remove the open end wrench and finish with your finger tips... Works everytime for me

It makes it very very easy...

 

you are my hero mike. got any rotors, lol?

 

yeah one or 2 somewhere

 

Yep You're going to have to get that bolt off and unbolt the knuckle arm... you won't be able to get the struts out otherwise. Well you could but you'd have to unbolt the control arm and seperate one of the tied rod ends. Maybe you can try drilling it out.

 

I drilled it out and put a bolt in there, seems to be working fine.

get this, when I pulled the pads off the front right, the inner pad was in four peices. on the left, half of the inner pad was missing, you dont even want to know what the rotor looked like.

Ive been driving the car like this since I got it 2 months ago,

****.