NEED HELP finding Nikki carb number
08-06-17, 11:41 AM
#1
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NEED HELP finding Nikki carb number
I need help to locate the carb number on my Nikki carb. Good photos would be very helpful. I did many searches and could not come up with the answer, so if it's here somewhere, I couldn't find that either. Is the number supposed to be one of these? N23113200A, N23213200A, N23313200A, N23413200A; N-4 and if so, where is it on the carb. Thanks for your help.
NOTE: These numbers were listed for a Standard Motors Products Hygrade Kit #1556, on their webpage. Anyone use this kit and have comments about it?
NOTE: These numbers were listed for a Standard Motors Products Hygrade Kit #1556, on their webpage. Anyone use this kit and have comments about it?
08-06-17, 12:54 PM
#2
1) Don't worry about the numbers.
2) Do not change out the needles and seats because all aftermarket ones are machined poorly and lead to flooding every time. You have been warned.
3) If your OEM needles are old, it is possible to use the new needles in the kit but they ust be burnished and the OEM spring insert and brass pin, along with the outer spring (if you have that type) can be swapped over.
4) Do not adjust your floats. There is nothing wrong with the factory setting. Ignore the little paper ruler that comes in rebuild kits.
5) The baseplate gaskets can be ignored. The original gaskets are permanently bonded to the phenolic spacer and must remain in place. As for the gasket that goes between the main body and the baseplate, it is too thin and must be used as a template on thick paper, otherwise you will experience vacuum leaks.
2) Do not change out the needles and seats because all aftermarket ones are machined poorly and lead to flooding every time. You have been warned.
3) If your OEM needles are old, it is possible to use the new needles in the kit but they ust be burnished and the OEM spring insert and brass pin, along with the outer spring (if you have that type) can be swapped over.
4) Do not adjust your floats. There is nothing wrong with the factory setting. Ignore the little paper ruler that comes in rebuild kits.
5) The baseplate gaskets can be ignored. The original gaskets are permanently bonded to the phenolic spacer and must remain in place. As for the gasket that goes between the main body and the baseplate, it is too thin and must be used as a template on thick paper, otherwise you will experience vacuum leaks.
04-09-19, 01:24 PM
#3
Waffles - hmmm good
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Bringing this back from the dead. My phenolic spacer seems to not seal well. The original material still appears to be on there and has not been removed or tinkered with. Contemplating spraying it with gasket sealer before reassembly. Some suggest thin coats of silly cone. Have you had spacers that don't seal well and what have you done to cure them?
04-09-19, 02:07 PM
#4
If you use any kind of sealant, it can make life difficult if the carb ever has to come off again. Sealant can also flow into the small emissions holes in the spacer and the baseplate rendering them useless. It is better to run a file across the surface to take down the high spots in the permanently bonded gasket.
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04-10-19, 09:18 AM
#5
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Bringing this back from the dead. My phenolic spacer seems to not seal well. The original material still appears to be on there and has not been removed or tinkered with. Contemplating spraying it with gasket sealer before reassembly. Some suggest thin coats of silly cone. Have you had spacers that don't seal well and what have you done to cure them?
the car i've been playing with lately, came with a baseplate that was sprayed with copper seal, and it didn't. i was able to get it to seal with a really thin layer of silicon.
04-10-19, 09:44 AM
#6
3D Printed
Oi, well so much for autosave.... Anyway, I was going to suggest tack spray. Permatex makes a variant that I've had luck with a few times in this exact situation. It sometimes will soften with fuel however so... take that as you will. Filing down the high spots does sound like the best option though.
I would avoid silicone and many of it's derivatives. It's a pain to remove from anything that's not hard and smooth, making it just that much more fun to remove the carb next time you have to.
I would avoid silicone and many of it's derivatives. It's a pain to remove from anything that's not hard and smooth, making it just that much more fun to remove the carb next time you have to.