need to get FASTER
01-26-08, 11:26 PM
#26
His timing is fine. That's what it's supposed to be stock at full mechanical advance above 4k rpm.
01-27-08, 02:09 PM
#27
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Sorry, have to disagree with you on this point. True, a heavier flywheel helps the launch, but that's it. In the long run it reduces overall ETs. Fidenza tested thier lightweight flywheel against a heavier stock one. Overall ETs were quicker with the Lightweight. I don't recall what they used for a test mule.
His timing is fine. That's what it's supposed to be stock at full mechanical advance above 4k rpm.
His timing is fine. That's what it's supposed to be stock at full mechanical advance above 4k rpm.
01-27-08, 04:02 PM
#28
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For dragracing,you need to ditch the light flywheel,killls the rotating inertia that helps you not only get out of the hole.but keeps the momentum all the way down the track,second you timing is advanced way to far for a non ported motor,those sidedrafts are known for having a flat spot at around 3,000 rpm,as far as 60' i was running 2.0 on street tires,i made adjusters for the upper links of the rearend to make the instant center farther back,it eliminated any wheel hop,and made the car hook very well,i never got a chance to run it with slicks,but properly done,it should run 1.45-1.50 60' times
How did you make adjusters for the upper links? Any pics? I've heard about the ups and downs on these lightened flywheels and i'm ok with the lag, this car is my "drift/autocross" car and the lightened flywheel works great. I would really like to improve my 60ft time, seems slow to you guys haha
01-27-08, 04:18 PM
#29
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i did not take any pics of the 4 link mod,but there is a simple way to do it,you can just weld extensions on the rearend where the bottom link bars attach,i made three holes that were very close together to have tunability.
01-27-08, 04:58 PM
#30
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SO I just extend this lower?
01-27-08, 06:01 PM
#33
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+1 to those that said tuning. You should be making significantly more power with that carb over the stocker, and if your times are comparable then I'd have to say you're not.
01-27-08, 06:28 PM
#34
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+1 on avoiding the burnout on street tires. avoid the water altogether. and if you cant avoid the water, spin the tires just long enough to dry them off. and practice the tree. best rule of thumb is when the third yellow gets bright, launch. if you wait for the green, you will be late. if its a pro tree when all three yellows get bright, launch. again, dont wait on the green light. it the tree is lit by the new light emmiting diodes, aka "LED"s", you will have to predict the tree.
01-27-08, 07:18 PM
#36
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01-27-08, 07:31 PM
#37
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+1 on avoiding the burnout on street tires. avoid the water altogether. and if you cant avoid the water, spin the tires just long enough to dry them off. and practice the tree. best rule of thumb is when the third yellow gets bright, launch. if you wait for the green, you will be late. if its a pro tree when all three yellows get bright, launch. again, dont wait on the green light. it the tree is lit by the new light emmiting diodes, aka "LED"s", you will have to predict the tree.
01-27-08, 07:44 PM
#39
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no man i dont use nos in my 12a...im planning on a 13b rew for next year but no its just the header and exhaust on it now....but there has to be a problem...try a new air filter and some plugs a good tune up you know maybe you can pull a little out of it
01-27-08, 10:34 PM
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*#@k! Means i have to order it. Bummer
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