Ok well it's happened. TIME FOR A CLUTCH. More slippery than a lesbian twister party . And stock clutchs just ain't working for me. I know the ACT Heavy Duty clutch would work great. But I like to go to the track at times. And well spinning tire just ain't my thing. I know I know clutchs aren't the only thing that is a factor in that but it's one of them. I was wondering if a 6 puke copper clutch with a Heavy Duty Pressure plate would be ok for street and occasional drag/autox. I have a 13B 4-port streetported with a sidedraft mikuni carb with 38mm chokes, full exhaust, no emissions, e-fan, holley fuel system, full racing suspension from what I can see, sway bars, tockico illuminas, racing beat springs. I wanted to know some things about clutchs that would work for my set-up and needs. GO FAST!

 

doooo aaaaaaa searchhhhhhhh nobbbbbbbb... just kidding but do a search, this topic was brought up about 2 months ago..search using my sn

 

yes it would

 

Unless you're making a lot of torque, I don't see the need to go to a puck type disc on the street. If you go with the ACT full faced disc and the HD pressure plate, it will handle 268 ft/lbs according to their website. Thats more than enough for any 12A/13B NA rotary, even with massive ports. Driving a puck type you're going to break drivetrain components quicker.

 

yea but in my money problems right now the 6 puck by xtd racing is 50 bucks cheaper lol

 

The problem with all of those "race" clutch set-ups is that your hydraulic system, if stock or left that way, is designed for a much lower spring pressure and you'll be replacing or rebuilding it on a bi-annual basis, roughly. Just get the CenterForce Dual-Friction clutch and all your worries will be over. The one sitting in the engine on a stand in my garage has been through two cars now including the RP big streetport. It easily survived 4500 rpm clutch drops on Kennedale night which involved 20 or so passes down the strip. I never smelled anything but tire smoke...