GlewsRx, I agree with you completely. I think that is the moment where I decided to do the whole suspension instead of just a brake job.... Because I had to remove the strut housing to steering knuckle bolts just to get the brake rotor off. Infact, I'm gonna have to unbolt all that **** again to put the brake rotor back on!

As far as my car, I just need to find some parts for the rear brakes that are no longer available. The new front rotors/hubs and bearings are ready to go on, I just have to get out there and do it.

 

I used an offset box wrench and placed another wrench to keep it wedged on the nut. Once it is loose, use the open end to remove it, otherwise you will not be able to remove the wrench.

 

You guys are rookies! Just kidding. I understand why this PITA bolt has you all frustrated. It used to drive me crazy too until I finally came up with a tool that takes it out the first time every time. It seems as though the Mazda engineers gave you just enough room to make you think that you can fit a wrench in there. I've tried it every which was and it seems like no matter what you do, the wrench won't fit in there correctly. Then as if that wasn't frustrating enough, as soon as you get the bolt loosened up and start to remove it, then your wrench is stuck and you can't get it back out! AAGGHHH!!

So here is what I came up with. You're going to need a 14mm offset box end wrench. A regular box end wrench won't cut the mustard, it has to be offset. Here is where the commitment comes in. I would recommend getting a cheapo wrench from somewhere to dedicate to this bolt. You are going to use a bench grinder and shave down the outside thickness of the wrench end. This will make it MUCH easier to get in on top of the bolt, and you won't get it stuck in behind the rotors when you're trying to take off the caliper brackets. Shave down the end on the wrench to be the same height as the bolt head. This will ensure that the wrench won't be getting in your way when you remove the bolt.

Enjoy your new tool! It made my life much simpler. I have attached a picture for reference...

 

I used a regular cheap wrench that was thin to get it started then a needle nose pliers for the rest of the way. It was kind of a pain but it works.

 

I beat the **** out of the caliper bracket, pivoting it around that bolt. Then I pulled the bearings and the nut from the rotor which gave me some play in the rotor. That gave me access to the 4 bolts that hold the backing plate to the strut. Undid those and Voila!. Then I took the whole thing off and peed on it.
Thanks for the tip though Ham, I'll make that happen for the passenger side.
I think HeMan put on on the bolts on my brakes though. I had to torch many of them and then I got my breaker bar bless by the Castle of Grayskull. Problem solved.

 

BTW, you can also use the tool I showed you above for breaking the lock nuts on the top of the rear shocks. Usually a standard wrench is too thick to allow you to access the lock nuts properly. Use your new homemade thin wrench on the bottom and then a regular old open end or box end wrench on the top nut. This well let you really put the muscle to those stubborn rear shock nuts that have a tendency to round off after 20+ years of service...

 

hey guys i need some help.
ive been kinda depressed this week(constant battle for me) so when i woke up this mourning i deiced to work on my car it make me feel better and get my mind off the bad ****.
iam waiting on my rear coil over kit from respeed.
but i all ready have my shocks and bushing kit. yesterday i got the car up on 4 jack stands so when i get the coil over kit i can open the box and start.


well any ways i wake up this mourning remove my rear sway bar, replaced the end links and bushings and re installed it. i started to take off my watts bar and realized i had to remove my sway bar to get the bolt out on the passengers side. i got the bolt out and gave up once i realized i need some one to give me a hand on the drivers side. i need to use both hands to crack the nut and have a friend hold a wrench on the bolt. then i sat back in my tent and smoke some butts and realized i need to come on here.

can you guys tell me the setps of which parts to take off and the order to put
them back on.
iam replacing all bushing,shocks and installing the respeed rear coil over kit.

 

Alrighty, The front hubs/rotors are installed along with new wheel bearings. The front wheels are back on the ground for the first time in a couple months.

Still waiting on the missing parts for the rear brakes. Once I get those I'll bleed the brakes, adjust the ride height, and make sure all the bolts are tight.

 

that car looks promising...

 

The car looks amazing i'll take two

 

those rims look just like the ones on my rs turbo capri. are the bolt holes on those rims sloted. whats you bolt pattern?

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

My bolt pattern is 4x110, but the bolt holes on the wheels look like they have been widened. Maybe they used to be 4x108.

 

When i got my car it had mustang rims on it from a 84 fox with the 4 popper in it. They where slotted about 2-3 mm but worked good. They where just ugly as ****. the oens i had anyway.

 

yeah i have the same rims then on my rs turbo capri. every one i know who have those rims on mustangs and capri's say there slotted a bit.


make me think i could just slap those rims on my car and call it a day.

but o yeah you have a wide body.are you using spacers.if not that mean's they probably will stick out way to much on my sa.
if i ever go wide body i think i found my rim's.

what tool did you use to press your ball joints out and the new ones in.

 

I used a ball joint press, looks something like this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

Could you send me a pic of the wheels on your capri? I haven't yet been able to positively ID mine so I can get some specs and whatnot.

I'm not using spacers. I'm not sure If I'll keep these wheels, I'd like to go a little wider but tire choices are extremely limited on a 14 inch wheel.

 

i wount be able to take pics of the rims for a week or to. but from looking at them iam 99% sure there the same wheel's. do you have the ceneter caps still.

they made by mag wheel or magnum. my capri is owned by me and my buddy . its at his house locked up right now hes away for a few weeks.

when he gets back ill take a photo. they guy i bought the capri off of had a friend who had a 1st gen rx7 and they put the rim's on them. he said they stuck out alot tho. also they where not a stock rim on the capri or mustang. but they are a direct swap, what specs do you need ect.

 

can you take close up pics

 

What did you end up spending on your entire suspension setup?

 

just go to respeed, thats where he got most of the stuff. iam doing the same thing, i believe you cant beat respeed setups with out paying alot more.

 

Rear brake parts finally came in... check.

Wheels back on, finally off jackstands after three months... check.

Still haven't got a new windshield... check.

Covered with pollen... check.

Ugly as ****..... check.

Slow as ****.... check.

Still runs... check.

Done with suspension for now w/ Re-Speed coilovers... check.

 

Is that as low as it goes in the front?

 

Nice thread, keep us updated. My footwork is too similar to yours, except I'm missing some bushings.

 

So it's going to be ready for Deals Gap right????

 

i didnt read the whole thread but what length spring are you using? i have the same front set up and running a 5" spring. that 5" spring is only giving me about 1.5-2" of suspension travel. if that wasnt scary enough theres a lot of spring...not sur eof the term droop? i kno i shouldve got the racing style one with the cutting/welding if im complaining so much but id like to know whats your take on it.

 

Looks nice.