We need an update with the rear coils installed

 

yeah and a little bit more then that http://www.gforceengineering.net Im looking at the book, tri link and pan hard bar.

 

But we'll save that for discussion in someone else's thread please.

As I am not installing those components at this time, we don't want to confuse anyone.

As soon as I figure out how to get the rear control arms loose without an impact wrech, so I can drop the rearend, I'll pop in the new rear springs and take more pics.

 

o

 

use a braker bar

 

PB blaster, a wrench and a mallet worked well for me.

 

 

Here you go Sir.

 

This stuff makes PB blaster look like apple juice. Industrial strength bitch!

 

You setup looks great. Care to elaborate more on how much of the steering system you replaced? It looks like you have new tie rods and maybe an idler arm? I want to do a setup like this, can you post more detail on the actual springs/shocks you selected?

 

Simple and effective, great system.

A lot better than figure out how to strenght the shock support to use second gen coilovers.

I love the RE-SPEED solution.

Thanks for posting the pics

Let us know how the 300/175 handles.

Its a pretty "mild" setup right?

 

I didn't replace the idler arm, it looks like it already has the Moog one. All new tie rods, except for the center link, and new ball joints on the control arms. All Moog parts from www.rockauto.com.

The shocks are Tokico Illumina's. Springs are Suspension Spring Specialists bought through Re-Speed, front's are 6 inch 300#, rear's are 175#.


Not really, definitely not mild for the street, maybe mild for the track. It's sure to be a stiff ride. If the front springs were more than 300#, I would have had to use the race coilover kit with the weld-on perches and 7 inch springs or longer. That's what Billy says.

 

Can you guys tell I like my new camera?

 

It has a very nice macro.



I´ve read FC and FD spring rates and they are WAY higher.

My "mild" observation was in general.

Yes, 300/175 is hard for street use (my civic runs 450/350)

but in general 300/175 might be a good compromise.

 

Yes, I agree, but you have to remember that FC's and FD's weigh 500 pounds more than our cars.


I just started doing the rear brake shoes..... Why oh why is one completely different than the other???? Neither one has the little adjuster screws as illustrated by the hayne's manual and the FSM, and one of them has some complicated self-adjusting deal. WTF? No wonder the e-brake doesn't work.

 

Time for a GSL rear end swap!

 

I just looked up the FSM for '85, the self adjuster deal is on the later models. Does this mean I have a 84-85 rearend? Anyway to tell right away? Man somebody screwed with this car. Why would someone swap the rearend but not go for the LSD? Nuts.

 

Or maybe it's 81-85 brakes and the hayne's manual is worthless, and I just have the wrong parts on one side. ****, I quit for the day.

 

y not get rid of the drums?

 

k i have a question. when you bought the arms and bushings from rock auto did you have to buy 2 of each or does it come in sets?

 

i want to know the same thing cause i need to get ball joints ect ect.

i wish i could find the moog part numbers for every thing in the front end . my step dad could get me all the moog stuff for cost.

 

I can't wait to see the pics of how low your car sits once it's all back together. I have the RE speed adjustable rears like you, I still need to order the front. I have 175lb for the rear, and plan on buying 300lb for the front. A friend of mine has these spring rates on his first gen and swears it's not too stiff for the street. Could you post the part numbers for the parts you purchased from Rock Auto if you have them handy? Thanks

 

Sorry guys, I've been out of town for the last week... So no updates yet.



MOOG Part #ES2355 Outer Tie Rod end
MOOG Part #ES2192R Inner Tie Rod end
MOOG Part #K9095 Ball Joint, I think these are discontinued, I may have got some of the last ones in stock as they are no longer on rockauto's website. You'll have to shop around. Yes you need 2 of everything.

 

thanks

 

NOT A THREAD HIJACK
I'm working on the same project and figuring there were already 2 threads about this and we really don't need a third and I just wanna gripe so here it goes.

How is it that mazda, in all their glorious engineering expertise and simplistic yet timelessly elegant design ethos (Ya like that?) can put that one ****** bolt for the caliper bracket in a recess and then cover it up with the control arm link thingee, making it next to impossible to get off? And better yet, how did you and Hammy get it off? The haynes manual is like "good luck with that bolt, ya dumb loser. Try using an infinitely small wrench while using a screwdriver to pry it at the same time. For all its worth, you do just as well to use a banana and a glass of orange juice." Oh and thanks Haynes for letting Mungo from Blazing Saddles do the write up for that section of the book.

Sorry and update please.