1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

My small fix it's & fix up's

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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 11:21 AM
  #1  
sweetege's Avatar
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bzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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From: Cookeville, TN
My small fix it's & fix up's

Ok these pics of are the minor stuff i've done the door panels are'nt complete but i might not ever clean them completely because i'm probably going to just get some new ones these are tearing apart. the airbox mod (i guess it's a mod) but thats been done for awile the acv block off plate i just cut out of aluminum. and one is of mine and my bros beauties... well our car beauties the 20th pic is of my ghettoed that i have'nt made purtty yet dimmer for the lights switch. The 21st is if you look at the switch that looks like it is for the headlights thats another ghetto rigged switch it's for the A/C compressor but i have no more freon so i gotta switch over to the new stuff. I also painted as you can tell in the pics my interior black some flat and some glossy the flat is insanly strong but the glossy can chip which does everybody think i should do glossy or flat and if glossy what can i do to make it stronger? and how do i fix that green stuff on the shift boot?
Thanks, Michael

http://hroman.slac.com/rx7/07-01-04-Sweetege/
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 11:30 AM
  #2  
Unsupa's Avatar
Blew my 3rd one 12/8/08
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From: Inman SC
wanna see my 'air box mod'?

http://soop.netfirms.com/engine.html
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 11:36 AM
  #3  
Anex 570's Avatar
It Runs!
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From: PA
Take those studs out of your ACV blockoff and use M6 bolts to the right lenghth and 1 washer. Also get ready to take your rats nest off unless you have smog tests? ( if you did you better find that acv and air pump real quick) Also to help flow more air into that airbox, get a rotary cutting tool and trim around the latches so you can still latch the top on and all the way down before the filter. It might look ugly but its cheap, easy and effective. I have all this done to my car btw
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 12:25 PM
  #4  
sweetege's Avatar
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bzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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From: Cookeville, TN
do you have a link to the removal of it cause i do'nt have any smog or emissions test here it TN. and do you have any pics of what you did to your airbox? oh i just then saw them so it will still hold up and not collapse wait nevermind i'm stupid i answer my own questions aahhhh.. ok thanks i'll do that. and the acv bolts was a quick fix when i have time to go to lowes and get 3 bolts for them i will. but i still need the link to the removal of the rats nest and i also want to keep the A/C and thats all and how would i hook up second gen ignitors for direct fire do they really help that much cause i have an extra pair. sorry for the tons of questions but i'm trying to get everything done before i go with my friends to dills gap.
thanks, Michael
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 01:30 PM
  #5  
85rotarypower's Avatar
love the braaaap
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From: Bognor, Ontario
Here is a link to the removal tutorial. All the info you would need to remove the rats nest.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 02:51 PM
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From: Near Seattle
Second gen ignitors aren't all they're cracked up to be. The leading ignitor is 'dumb' (needs the ECU for dwell) and the trailing ignitor can't fire both trailing coils at the same time. Virtually useless without an ECU or a basic understanding of how the ignitors work.

Sure, some have said that you can use a leading ignitor, but I wouldn't want to risk my engine (thinking of worst case scenario here). It's better just go with with tried and true stuff such as DLIDFIS, or an MSD with 2nd gen leading coil, or 2GCDFIS.

As for the ACV blockoff plate, just use oil pan bolts. Perfect length and thread pitch.

Last edited by Jeff20B; Jul 1, 2004 at 02:56 PM.
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