I know...I know I made a thread yesterday about my rats nest removal, but today I'm gonna tell you exactly what I did, and show you the final results.

And guess what...I didn't have to spend a cent on supplies.

Im not gonna tell you how to tear it out, thats the easy part...well unbolt the 2 12 mm bolts, and disconnect all the vacuum lines, and yank it out. THERE

Now I stole the long piece of vacuum line off of my cruise control (never gonna use cruise) and capped off where it used to go.



Im only used 3 of the vacuum nipples on the carb.



Hook up you white solenoid (off the rats nest) to the white plug, and run a short piece of vacuum line from the solenoid to the throttle opener, than run a piece of vacuum line from the solenoid to the 1st vacuum nipple on the carb.

Steal the T fitting off the rats nest, and run 2 short piece of vacuum line from the 2 vacuum advanced do dads on the distributer. Join them with the T than run a line from the T to the 2nd vacuum nipple on the carb.

Than for the last one, I ran a piece of vacuum line directly from the vent on the oil fill neck to the 3rd nipple on the carb. Thats right, I did away with the purge valve.

Now there's 3 nipple left, to be capped. For caps, I took the little breather things that were on the solenoids on the rats nest, and filled em with silicone.



Works for me!




Than block these lines.





Also there is one real vacuum cap on the rats nest some where's, take it, and use it to block the small line coming off the shutter valve. (the shutter valve is in the above pic, with the big line coming off it, that is blocked with a bolt)

This is what it looks like when you're done/











NOTE: I haven't started the car yet, cause im waiting for the silicone to set, I'll let you know how it runs.

Hopefully this clears up a lot of the questions with the rats nest.

 

The car idles high at 1500RPM, it was rough when I first started it, but as it warmed it evened out. Took the car for a spin, and it seems to be smoother, and the engine doesn't backfire as much, or as loudly.

I can't find and vacuum leaks, any ideas?

 

you cant find vacuum leaks? is that what you ment to say? if so i suggest finding a smoke machine and hooking it in to one of the vacuum hoses and let it start pumping in smoke. then just look for smoke coming out of any of the lines. we've used this trick in autoshop

 

I found it!!! Now she idels even better than before, after I capped this bad boy.

Removing the rats nest smoothed out my idel, made the engine more responsive and smoother, cut down on my backfiring, and cleaned up the engine bay!

I should also note, that one of the lined that I had capped (the large one that came from the carb, and used to go to the purge valve) I uncapped it, and stuck a piece of vaccum line in it, and hooked it up to one of the nipples. I think its some sort of vent, cause gassy liquid was coming out of it.

Here was the nipple I forgot to cap



Final results. Lots of zip tire to keep everything off the hot rotor housings.

 

Looks good! just 1 thing.. the way you hooked up the crankcase vent.. it will work to take the vapors out.. but IIRC, removing the oil cap while running will cause a huge vacuum leak, with a PCV it wouldnt.

Just something to keep in mind

 

Thanks

Well I don't plan on removing the cap while the engine is running, what would I need to do that for? haha

 

well i dont know.. on occasion i've filled oil with the engine running :P

probably wont be much of a problem though

 

Edit: Sorry guys, accidently double posted a question by thinking I was replying on one thread and then when I didn't see it on the 'correct' thread thought I didn't post it. Here's the thread with one copy of the question.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/rat-nest-removal-problems-679056/

 

Where do you have the hose coming from the oil filler neck going?

 

You can cut the selenoid ends off if you dont plan to put a rats nest back on it gives the wireing harness a cleaner look.

 

Theres a vacuum line running from the oil fill neck to the 3rd (from the left) vacuum nipple on the carb

And as for all the solenoid connecting, I cut the electrical tape that all the wires were wrapped in, and hauled back the un-used ones back. Ill snap a pic to show you.

See where all the connectors are down by the dizzy? they have a baggie taped over em to keep em clean.

 

yea that looks a lot cleaner then with them just sitting around like in mine.lol

 

Hey "84-12A-GSL" where are you running your A/C soliniod, there is two nipples. Can I cut the rest of the wires that the rats nest was plugged to. Did you you remove all the junk from your carb. and do u have a diagram or pictures "how" you removed the unnessary stuff.

 

You need to un cap the line by the fuel outlet. It is the float chamber vent. You have to have it vented. Run a large vacuum line down the spark plug side of the engine and let it dangle around the front cross member. When the engine is turned off This line functions as a vent for excess gasoline vapors inside the carburetor. If you plug it up these vapors cannot escape and pressure builds up inside the carburetor causing the gasoline in the float chambers to excrete into the throttle body and boil. Run your car for a few minutes, shut it off and listen to the carburetor. It will sound like a coffee pot boiling momentarily. NOT GOOD

You'll find that your hot start problem and smoking will vanish if you just let this line dangle to drain under the engine.

Next, uncap the small cap on the shutter valve.
Also...

It's hard to see, but do you have your fuel tank vent line plugged into your crank case vent line? Cap the big nipple on the rear housing. Get a fuel line and run it from the oil filler neck nipple to any nipple on the carb hat. This will suction the pressure out, so to speak... If it is just sitting there with a breather on it there is no suction to remove the vapors and you will get moisture build up inside the oil and filler neck.

I put a small carburetor fuel filter on this line just for safe measure.

Buy a vacuum cap kit for $7. You will thank yourself when it doesn't leak and looks a million times better.

 

i broke the white selinoid. are the all the same? can i just use the yellow one?

 

wait a minute, looking at these pictures i noticed you dont have all the connectors with hoses on them. i believe they're solenoids? are they not needed and can be removed?

 

WOW NOW IT LOOKS LIKE MY 79 UNDER THE HOOD!!!! Good work though, they put so much junk under the later years!!