bigwyrm

Like the title reads, my omp lines are clear. Indicating to me that my engine is not sucking up any oil into the combustion chamber. They have been for a while now, although I hardly drive anywhere these days. Basically, I've been reading through the forums trying to find a solution, but my internet connection is really slow and i'm tired of playing megaman 4 on my emulator while the page loads. I think i'm at ring man now...(there are alot of pages, man) Alas here I am asking for help.

From what i've gathered you guys are going to give me some directions here that I'm no so sure about implementing, Described why in the asterisk.

1) Go pre-mix disconnect the omp
*But i'm running a weber 45 dcoe setup. Won't that gum up the carb.?
*I have my 12a rx7 in the back of a 69 vw bug. The gas tank is pretty old, not sure if it will like the 2 stroke oil

2) Try to rebuild the omp.
* Sure. I've heard of people on the site taking off the omp, then running the car to see if the oil drips out of the plate that supplys oil. (one guy just shot some commpressed air into the hole to dislodge whatever was up there)



I would hope that my solution would be that simple. Shoot some compressed air into the oil hole Bingo* My oil flow problem fixxed. If no one has any better Idea's that is where I'll start, before i pre-mix. I happen to like my omp. (oil Metering pump for ya nooobs like me)
I also have tried reading my haynes manual which is confusing. It says there is another oil pump inside the front housing. Could that be my problem? I'll try to take pictures on monday to show you guys what i'm running with here.

THanks for reading, I'm a noob. I love rotary engines. This is the fastedt car i've ever owned. Thanks in advance.... Here's some more specs on the car:

69 vw. 12a Rotary engine. Running a 45 dcoe carb on bolt on magic manifold. (hehe) Idles like crap. Even after talking to robert @ rotary shack. My exhaust is custom by previous owner.. You guys have to see the pics to believe it. haha later -MIke

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

you might have something gummed up in there behing the OMP, or somewhere in the line, or the Rod that runs off the carb might be missing the cotter pin and is not allowing the rod to engage...Check those out first...Buying a used OMP is better then rebuilding yours...So just check that out...let us know what happens

Sgt Fox

iTrader: (3)

Now you have me interested. How about some pictures then?

bigwyrm

I've Made a makeshift Rod that engages the omp pump out of a hangar. I know, ghetto so what. I actually have a better rod from fast freddys that I bought with my throttle linkage. Just never used it. Hanger was good.

Anyways, I've actually ran the engine and pushed the omp lever up with my hands manually to see if it would get more oil... does'nt look like it. I think i might try it again and sit there for like a minute with the lever all the way up to see if there is a difference... but i doubt it... I'm going to replace some of the vacuum lines that i have going to the manifold tommorow to see if there is any gummage going on there ( I've been using wind washer rubber vacuum lines for 2 years now, they might have gone bad by now) Thanks for input, I'll let you guys know what happens.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

you've been using the window washer lines as vacuum lines or omp lines? (just to clarify) the compressed air idea sounds good and a quick check if nothing else , i'm not sure all the work that needs to be put into rebuilding the omp, but if you were gonna do that, then it'd seem logical to me to go ahead and clean the oil pan and all the possible internals to prevent this from happening again

if it is messed up and you want the cheap way out, just premix, no i don't think the carb will gum up since by using the omp you're putting in more RAW oil into the carb than by premix, im sure some of the other guys that have aftermkt. intake can throw in some ideas.

bigwyrm

I'm using the wind washer tubes to complete the vacuum lines from the omp silicones to the aftermarket manifold. So, I guess both to answer your question. Also, the way my carb is set up right now, the omp pumps oil PAST the Carb and directly into the intake manifold. Pre-mixing would allow 2 stroke oil into the carb and I'm not convinced this is healthy for my 800 dollar carburator! Not a Stock manifold, in fact i'm selling the stock manifold I used to run on with a Holley 450 CFM carb on it for 150 bucks if anyone wants it, heh?

Keeble

iTrader: (3)

well all the mazda factory teams run 2 stroke, and alot of guys running webers are running 2 stroke.

teddyrx2

iTrader: (33)

not only that alot of guys like myself are pre-mix on the holley's all day long...If anything the omp is only pumping drops at a time...with premix your getting it all the time through the fuel...so it's your choice

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Toss in some premix for safety, 1 oz/gal. It won't gum up anything, Shoot some brake cleaner through the lines, off the engine. Hold the MOP rod full up, run engine around 1500 rpm for a few minutes and watch for oil coming up the lines. If not, order a rebuild kit for the MOP.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

^^ trochoid, i know this is this guy's problem , i was wondering, can you clarify on what lines you're shooting the brake cleaner through, the omp lines? and how can you force it backwards through there? figured i'd go ahead and clear this up in case i ever run into this problem i can just look back lol.

djessence

The omp lines.... the ones that carry oil, since they are not providing oil.... You get the little straw for aerosol, jam it in the omp line and spray. You want to make sure the omp lines are off the engine because brake cleaner is nasty **** and you dont want it in your oil system. And it should eat through just about anything thats clogging the line

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Correct. ^

The oil in the MOP lines isn't really under 'pressure'. Each bit of oil is sort of chopped off by the MOP. With vacuum from the intake and the next bit of oil following, it moves along and up the lines.

Vashner

I am curious, on future models did they put something in the monitors the OMP? In terms of the ODBII diagnostics. Ablity to issue a code if OMP was malfunctioned would be cool.

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

ahh, ok, so just clean the lines out lol, i thought you meant as in run the brake cleaner through the lines into the omp to clean the omp... makes much more sense now :P, but i think (correct me if i'm wrong) bigwyrm's problem is that the omp itself is not pumping into the lines, not that the lines are clogged.

PercentSevenC

Yep, S5 and later.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The 7 never had OBDII. Starting with the S5, the MOP was controlled electronically. If it failed, the ecu went into limp mode.

bigwyrm

Hey guys.
Sorry I'm being lag right now. I just blew my engine on my VW 1980 diesel rabbit. been pre-occupied a little trying to find the best solution to donate that car... if you guys know any good services...


Anyhow. I've got pictures on my photo bucket up and viewable.

You'll see the crappiest header you can imagine on a 7. It was custom by previous owner and I'm saving (but really just spending) money up for a racing beat disassembled road race header and exhaust. You can also see my CLEAR MOP lines and the rusty hangar I used to engage the MOP. Man, everything looks so rusty when i look at the pictures full size.

And.. another question..

It is really hard to start my car. Especially in cold weather. I gotta give it a pedal to the metal gas squirt, wait, then crank and repeat to get her going. I've always thought it had to be exhaust related. Maybe low compression. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Here's the pics... Thanks every one -Mike

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4...roject3014.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4...roject3015.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4...roject3017.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4...roject3018.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4...roject3019.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i4...roject3020.jpg

boyee

iTrader: (3)

i rebuilt my omp using the lowe performance omp rebuild kit. if you do a search their phone number and website should arise. seems that this was successful on my omp because i did not notice it leaking externally. one time after driving around for a bit i looked real close at the omp lines and saw little drips of oil moving slowly upward so to me this confirmed my omp was working. i tried looking to see the oil moving up the lines again but i never caught it and my engine has been running smooth so i always assumed the omp was working. good luck to your engine!

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

i think them pics are pretty awesome , but anyways, as far as your hard starting goes, do you have any vacuum leaks that you know of? when mine had a vacuum leak i'd have to pump loads of gas into it everytime i went to crank no matter what, it may be something to check for if you haven't already.

bigwyrm

I pre-mixed my seven with 1/2 ounces to gallons (5 oz. for my 10 gallon tank) ratio. OMFG she luvs it. reved better and all around sounds great. Cant complain. I bought some valvoline tc-w3 certified oil. I'm not sure if i want to fix the omp now...