It's my first winter with my Nikki. First off it's completely stripped and naked. No choke or nothing, so I understand that since I have no choke in the cold it's going to be quite a PITA to start and warm up, but I didn't expect it to be as drastic as it's been. Like today, after not driving it for 7 hours I startted it up after school, I pumped twice, started right up and died, and did that again about three times till it stayed running. This has been normal. It struggles to idle cold, when it hasn't been driven for a while. Idling cold it idles just above 1000 rpm, or struggles too. Then warm it idles PERFECTLY at just below 2000 rpm. Keep in mind this stripped Nikki is on my Full Monster port.. I know or at least I think my Idle mixture is set right.
I'm also running Wasted spark ignition. If that matters.. Let me know if you have any questions that could further help you conclude.

Thanks,
-Crispin

 

No choke will make it very cold natured.

 

Yupp.. I know, just like I said. Didn't think it'd be this bad. When I ran my Weber (IDF) it honestly wasn't as bad in the winter.

 

since you have it idling so high, it might not be idling on the idle circuit, it might be idling on the transition circuit, which isn't going to be right and isn't adjustable with the mixture screws.

i havent had a nikki colder than mid 40's but i used to pump it twice or three times, and once it started, i'd just use my foot to bring it up to 1500-2000rpms.

for about the first 30 seconds, it won't idle

after about 30 seconds the idle is low and rough, and it gets better as it warms up

no choke needed...

the P port/IDA is about the same, hot idle is about 1000, it could be lower but the CARB won't really let me

 

I have a naked nikki on my 12A Judge Ito SP, on really cold days I just pump it once and it fires right up. I agree with J9FD3S, at 2K its on the transition circuit. My idle at the moment is between 750 -1000K.

 

Yeah. J9FD3S, that's pretty much what I have to do. I think what I'm going to try next is pulling of my RB airbox and running the stock instead. That way it'll be less exposed to cold air. Idk, might make a difference.

 

You can try hooking up your choke cable to the throttle and using it to hold the idle above the idle circuit until the engine is warm.

 

I think i'm just going to leave it. I'm moving to Charlotte this summer anyways..

 

That's not a bad idea maybe I'll stick my stock air cleaner back on. I have pretty much the same problem but mines a stock port and idles around 1200 rpm... 1000 with my headlights on lol

 

That's not a bad idea maybe I'll stick my stock air cleaner back on. I have pretty much the same problem but mines a stock port and idles around 1200 rpm... 1000 with my headlights on lol

 

why do you guys have such high idles? the P port idles lower!

 

i was thinking the same..........6 or 700 rpm is good for your nikki...

 

Mine is because of a few small vac leaks. I need to reseal the block off plates on the intake where the air pump, egr and coasting valve used to be.

 

It's weird cuz I only get about 275 miles per tank (mostly hwy) but the exhaust fumes are making my bumper brown like it's getting too much air and not enough fuel (that's lean right?)

 

Im using a RB air filter on mine. Sounds like you might have a small vac leak somewhere.

 

Better than me. I got a stock port stripped nikki and full exhaust and i can barly get 200 miles per tank. Thats highway and some traffic

As for the cold start, If you can some how rig the old choke to the fast idle that can work. You pump it, Pull out the choke and when it starts it should got to 3000 RPM or so and stay there till she's warmed up. Thats atleast what i thought, But then i remembered you took out the choke rod. So there may be a lill modding to be had to make it work. My .02

 

Yeah my fast idle is still intact

 

The ports on mine are pretty healthy.. Sounds identical to my 13B PP race car. But whatever.