khaine_d

I bought my 85 titanium grey gsl, back in 2000. It had one owner before me, and well kept on the exterier. The trans was a bit rough, the clutch shot, and the radio sounds like a 9mm gun shooting randomly. Interior smells like oil, and the plastic is all giving out. I ran her hard, had to replace master and slave assemblies for clutch, rebuild the rear end, and that muffler that disapeared somewhere around Cadiz my ( btw raven exhaust sounds wonderful.) I had a mazda dealership in my hometown replace the intake gasket, because it felt like I had only half an engine.

In 2002 it did the same thing, went to another and she ran worse than when I took it in. Shortly after she was parked in my garage and not touched until this Friday. I was away for 5 years.... Missed that car so much, and a lot of my friends grew to hate it because they have never owned one and just don't know the joy of wankle... !!

I checked the liquids, made sure the gas lines were clear, and replaced the battery. Crank, crank hummm sputter. So i checked the spark plugs and discovered what true carbon build up is. Replaced with nkg r's and it was better but not by much. Started tracing plug wires and found that my coils were switched, as well as my l l2 and t t2. Fixed, and runs better. Advanced the distributed cap, maybe by 10• And re adjusted the fuel mix to factory. She idols on her own now, and sounds much better. Let me say I am no mech genus, so here is the problem. When the gas is smashed it only gets to about 2k rpm from 750-810rpm and it feels muffled? It doesnt skyrocket like I know it can. Almost feels like 3/4 off the engine is there but the rest is missing..

I've looked through and I may be missing the answer do to my lack off skills, but I would like some ideas if any one can direct me?

Thank u!

P_Lav

You could try the de-carbonizing how-to thread in the archive, and see if that helps you. Be careful though read the whole thread and see which style is right for you. You also could have a carb issue...

khaine_d

here is an update, i read the threads, and i thank u for the link. Ive been doing some more work on the car. I bought a compression tester to check my rotars, 12a engine, pn the front with wot 60, 60, 60. The rear rotor goes psshhht three times. The rear rotor gets 65, 65, 65, and the front rotor makes the same sounds. Is that coompression normal?

I got it so it runs at a lope of 750 to 1 k idle rpm. Im happy it runs on its own now. I started the gentle process of high rpms to start getting carbon out. Oops. Lol. The heat guard around the exhaust at the bottom of the engine smokes more than i thought it could, without being on fire! I have an idea due to a buddy of mine that my cat is clogged, strictly for test purposes i want to remove it Any guides for doing this to a stock engine?

Rogue_Wulff

Install ear plugs, drop the pipe in front of the cat, and fire it up. You'll be glad you have the ear plugs.
I wouldn't doubt the cat has give up the ghost. They live a very hard life behind a Rotary, and the stock cats just weren't really up to the task. Neither are most replacements.

khaine_d

Tonight I ordered a racing beat cat replacement pipe. plus front gasket and rear gasket. Hopefully my earplugs will thank me! nervous about the switch, but then again Im a mechanical idiot.. haha..

nick812

I agree probally cats but the numbers are alittle low how did you come up with those #'s?

Rogue_Wulff

The numbers are a little lower than I would prefer. However, if the cats are clogged, the numbers are gonna look lower.

khaine_d

I have a regular comp tester, not the special one. What I did was shoved budy
in drivers seat, wot, and crank. Engine was warm at test. I held the bleed off on the tester, and watched it as he cranked, the spark plug for leading on the opposite rotor was out so I could hear the sounds... The compression didn't spike on any one side of the rotor, front or back, i hope this is the right way to do this. Side note even with the bleed off open on the tester the numbers were the same

khaine_d

Pipe will be here oct 2, going to rebuild the carb before it arrives, first time ive done this, any tips or hints i'll need for sucess?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Download a copy of the carb manual via member trochoid profile.

Have a good clean work area that you can spread parts out over. Also recommend taking pictures for reference.

khaine_d

got that pesky pipe with the cats off. I found the reason mine was all funktified is that I had a pre mono, and the cat, but the second one was gone. a ugly pipe welded in there. so tomorrow I will get the bolts off,,,, I have two hoses that went to the cats, can I just plug those, or can I trace them back and remove items they are attatched to? just curios. as far as the carb..... I went to remove it and well, after 22 years I think it wants to be left alone. I removed the electrical, cables, and vacumes that attatched directly. but after backing out the 4 bolts it will not come off. I weigh 300 pounds, I have a lot of rear end I can put on something. rarely am I defeated. this guy refuses to come off. any ideas short of a jack hammer to remove the carb?

Rogue_Wulff

The bolts you removed, were they 12mm nuts? If not, put them back, and look a little lower............
I'm betting you removed the wrong bolts. The ones you took out are probably the base to carb body bolts. Thankfully, you didn't have the air cleaner stud out, or you'da had a mell of hess......

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

why would removing the carb stud cause hell??
maybe losin it up a bit as long if it got tightend back itr would cause no problems

Rogue_Wulff

Air cleaner stud threads into carb base. I'm guessing he took out the carb base to carb body bolts. They are easier to see than the carb to intake nuts.
With the base bolts removed, the air cleaner stud is the only thing holding the carb together........

khaine_d

so what I'm looking for is below the bolts I backed out. 2 inches or so right?

bugman1973

hey i sent you an email containing the instructions on how to strip a nikki carb i hope it helps

Rogue_Wulff

Assuming what you backed out were bolts (10mm ?), rather than nuts (12mm), this is likely the case.
Not quite 2". Just above the black plastic sheild. It's deceptive, due to the carb base plate being cast iron, while the carb body is aluminum. Trust me, you wouldn't be the first person to encounter this while trying to remove a carb.
The actual nuts that hold the carb to the intake are rather tricky to get to, especially the ones on the engine side. The rats nest tends to get in the way.

khaine_d

Ah ha. Ok well im a dummy... so I will put those back and go down to the place where the iron meets the plastic shield then.... lol and thank you!

khaine_d

Thank you for the suggestions and emails.. Today I sucessfully removed the carb, used the strip guide to remove all that useless stuff,,,, and started staring down that rats nest. I found a link and will gladely email the guide to anyone looking for a resource to do either. I am thinking of hosting some of the training, tutorials on my person web space so that anyone that needs the stuff can find it easily. So anyhow with the carb off, and parts purchased to clean out the rats nest tomorrow I bid everyone ado, and hope things keep going this well. I plan to have the rats nest , carb rebuilt, and replacement cat pipe in, and the car running by thursday. Here is to hope. As always if anyone has any suggestions please let me know I will abide them greatly!...

One problem, on the rear exhaust flange where the cats met up with the stock exhaust pipe someone ran allthread through the nut and into the cat flang.... I am having difficulty figuring out how to remove these two rods with threading on them. No head, no anything to grab by. The person that replaced this system the first time has been cursed in several languages now. Any ideas on how to remove bolts with no heads would be appreciated!!

Thanks for the help again, it's a work in progress, and I am amazed that I am getting stuff done, right,,,,

BlackWorksInc

I am confused, if they ran a through threaded stud, why not just hold the stud with pliers and then take the nut off? I mean I don't understand why you would want to keep the studs, it'd be less trouble to just put some new bolts there.

But if you do insist on taking it out, Get a couple of washers, a locking washer and nut that will fit nice and tight on the all threaded stud, put the washers on first so you have some space, then the locking nut and washer, make sure it stay nice and tight and viola a place to use a wrench to get the nut off without damaging the stud.

khaine_d

on the Flange it looks homebrew. The nuts are weilded to the metal, I hit it wth degreaser and cleaned it off, put on blaster on it, let it soak for 10 Min, and then realized after breaking my ratchet that it was weilded after the fact.... I am fairly large, so i had to think thin to get that far in, lol, not to mention getting out afyer being stuck there is a quarter of an inch of bolt on engine side, and about 3/4 inch exhaust side to work with....

khaine_d

good news, i finaly got my rb cat replacement pipe in! For anyone else doing this, i found a flexable self ratcheting wrench, and a can of crc freeze off to be the magic combo. I also put on a air check block off plate, and the plate for the other cat thing on. Used red silicon, high temp.

Next is a carb rebuild.
I just removed my rats nest, and all the extra stuff from my niki carb.

I hope this goes well.

khaine_d

Quick question. Having a debate with friend. he says this is three peices (see picture) I say it's one. I wouldn't know though, i've never taken one apart. the top and bottom are rubberyish? not carboard. He wants to take it apart and put the gaskets in the place of the top and bottom perspectivly. Me on the other hand I want to know is it one peice or should I pull the stuff off. I've noticed that air goes to different places through the body of this thing, hence my argument of since we don't know let me ask? I feel such the noob today. Oh wait .. I am. Lol go ahead and flame me!!!! I welcome it.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

It is one piece you do not scrap anything off. The gaskets are built into the spacer. You don't use the carb gaskets that come with the kit either. If it is intact on both sides leave it that way.

khaine_d

Good news, I finaly got it all back together. the bog down I was experiencing is gone. The exhaust sounds sweet. still working on my linkage since a buddy screwzored that one for me, and figuring out the studder. Like it's missing ever so often. Not regular, just random. I think its a combo of the linkage, and old old coils. I am picking up the ngk plugs tomorow morning, and msd blaster 3's soon. Got an electric fan, and hoping that it comes together the rest of the way. It's been so long since I heard that sound.. Cheers to all that have helped!