1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

My gslse wont idle cold!!! please help

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Old Jul 28, 2015 | 10:01 PM
  #1  
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From: seminole florida
My gslse wont idle cold!!! please help

So I have already checked other posts and cant quite find the answer.

Ive been holding of on the issue because i was just going to delete all fuel injection, wiring and all that and just run a weber. Everytime i start it itll go up to 200o rpm then just drop to 0 rpm if i hold on the gas and wait for it to heat up then it iles as best as she usually does. I think its my tps but i cant seem to properly adjust it everytime i do the 2 lightbulb trick it never just lights one up.

Any help/feedback will be greatly appreciated Thanks Rotorheads!!
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Old Jul 29, 2015 | 12:20 AM
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try cleaning the BAC (or whatever the bypass air valve is called on the SE).
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 07:27 AM
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id give it a nice tune up. new plugs, wires, belts - the little stuff. my buddy's would do the same thing but start at 3k rpms on cold start ups then eventaully drop to 1800 then 900 when warm... after simple tune up it'll go to 1500 ish to warm up then to 900
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Old Jul 31, 2015 | 08:47 AM
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Check the fast idle cam and thermo wax. This keeps the idle a little high until it warms up.
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Old Aug 2, 2015 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by andernamen
Check the fast idle cam and thermo wax. This keeps the idle a little high until it warms up.
This is my bet too. The thermo wax setup can be a bit of a pain in the a$$ sometimes. I choose to delete them on my builds and just hold the throttle open for about 60sec till the engine is warm enough to idle on its own. Adjusting the idle is a bit trickier with it removed, but it's nice to not worry about another old failing system in these cars. The TPS is also something I'd make sure to check - can you adjust these the same way as a TII, with a multimeter?
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 01:59 AM
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You can use a multi-meter, but you need about 3 hands, a young priest and an old priest to hold all the connections where they need to go. Far easier just to build the test rig with spade connections and then set it appropriately. As rarely as it gets used I built mine over 10 years ago and it's still going strong.

To the OP: during startup on the -SE, the procedure is to get in the car, put your gas pedal all the way to the floor (which sets the fast-idle cam), REMOVE YOUR FOOT FROM THE GAS, and then crank until it starts. The engine will tend to run at about 1500-1800rpm until warm coolant from the back of the waterpump makes it's way to the Thermowax pellet and melts the wax, allowing the internal spring to release the fast-idle cam from the throttle rod position. This returns idle to the 'warm' setting of 800-900rpm.

If you don't get the pedal down before start, the engine will usually falter at 500-900 trying to keep a steady idle. HTH,
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