FbDrift

okay, is there a trick to do to get it off... i have never had one stuck THIS bad.

I got the 2 1/8in nut off yesterday and started pulling, and pounding, and pulling somemore.

so after an hour and NO progress, i unbolted the rear main seal. and still nothing, i thought, ill just pull out the E-shaft, but it wont. i still have the front plate on it, idk if i have to take that off. but the pulleys are off.

am i missing something?

o and of course, engine is a 13b out of an 87 GXL.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

smack the flywheel on the outer edge with a hammer. might take a small sledge. thats what i always use anyways.. at any rate, do not smack the take up surface or the ring gear. smack one of the raised portions. make sure you do so with the nut threaded on a few threads. you dont want the flywheel coming off and hurting you..

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Also use heat. Hit with a torch, pound and repeat every few minutes. It will eventually pop off.

FbDrift

i could care less if i got hurt... i already tore up my arm lifting the engine out myself...

we have a small sledge, ill try it, i was using my stanly 16oz fiberglass handle hammer... i might try and all iorn one too.

FbDrift

o snap!


long story short... i missed.

but i got it off, the sledge hammer kicked butt! im glad the shaft was tapered, it would have sucked otherwise.

Portland82GSL

iTrader: (2)

just stating the obvious, but make sure to take off the 19mm bolt on the main pulley before you start disassembly. I took the flywheel off a blown motor last week with a buddy, and when I got back from taking a dump, he had already taken off the rear iron and rotor housing with the bolt still on making a lot more work for me later.

FbDrift

lol! yeah thats the first thing i did.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Good thing it was a 13B; you can get run out of town on a rail for doing that to a 12A plate.

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

word^^

:AA:

BlackWorksInc

Aww come on guys! he doesn't need that part of the block! it only helps him get the engine back in the car! lol

FbDrift

well, i thought it was called the rear "iron" i was lied too, thats aluminum.

strucually i think i will be fine without it... yes hoisting the engine will suck, but i can fabricate something else... or ill just life the engine in by hand.

BlackWorksInc

Aluminum? I don't know what rear iron you're talking about, but the 12A and S4 13B Engines I worked with had iron.

FbDrift

i thought that was called the rear iron, but that is aluminum...it broke off way to easy, looks, feels, and tastes like aluminum.

BlackWorksInc

I'm not even going to ask about the tasting part.

Did you try a magnet on it to see if is magnetic? Its only Cast Iron which isn't as strong as you might think. Plus I have never heard of the rear, side, and/or intermediate plates being made of anything but cast iron.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It's cast iron. I'm sure someone here will pay you $500 if it's aluminum.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

it is definatly cast iron. once you get the engine apart, pick the ****** up and you'll see the is cast iron. pick a rotor housing up for comparison. its a quarter of the weight, lol.

FbDrift

hmm i ll give that a shot, hmm, cast iorn is really that weak? if it is iorn, i could weld it back on...

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

yeah, cast can be weak against a sharp blow like that. it can be welded back on if you or someone you know, knows how to weld cast.

BlackWorksInc

Yeah, get someone who knows how to weld cast iron, because you will be playing "catch the crack." My welding instructor has done a few repairs to engine blocks and that was a longtime consuming process just to fill in a small 4 inch crack.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Or just get another Iron?

I have like 20 of them in the garage with various portings.