Here's a couple shots of the engine bay portion:

 

And the Intake port:

Sorry, it's a little hard to see, but the silver thing is the bottom half of the 3" dryer hose I used. And yes, I know its attached with bailing wire.

 

nice aluminum foil



Jeff

 

Can't see anything..

 

nor I

 

Sorry, here are the pics

 

And the first engine bay pic

 

with the snorkel going all the way down like that, be VERY careful driving through puddles or say bye bye to your engine.

I'd trim it to come out just in front of your radiator but up high behind the header panel. there's no gain from the extra length going down and facing front, but increased risk of sucking in dust & debris which will clog your filter faster and water which does NOT compress in combustion chambers

 

Thanks for the tip, Manntis. Also, if its up farther, do i still need to have it pointing forward for the best results, or can it be pointing down, 'caseu there'll be sheet metal blocking any direct ram-air flow, i think.

 

That's two threads in one hour about "Kraft" style Cold Air Intakes, and pictures of them.

 

Woah...Thats one way to go about doing it...

~T.J.

 

You could always try to get that valve thing from Apexi that keeps water out of the intake track!

 

Manntis,

This is true on piston engine applications where the air filter is 2 inches from the ground, and can get immersed in water (think*huge* puddle) and suck water up.

BUT.... and this is just what I've heard... I'm not guaranteeing this information, and I'm not responsible for anything that happens lol.

I was talking to a guy about this a while ago who owns a shop and knows his **** about rotary engines. He said this is not an issue with rotaries. He said that they are extremely resistant to hydrolock by nature, and that it is almost impossible to hydrolock a rotary. He basically said not to worry about it at all.

If you are worried, go to an import shop and buy an AEM bypass valve. But unless your filter is extremely low to the ground and likely to be fully immersed in water, from what I've heard, I would not worry about it too much.

From the picture you posted, it doesn't look to me like you are at any risk. Obviously though, if you see a huge puddle, don't go driving through it lol.

 

it's a matter of his rotor trying to compress a pocket of water that refuses to be compressed, and boom, there goes the seals. Basic hydraulic physics.

Not many cars have air filters "two inches from the ground" - for maintainance, etc. they tend to be high up in the engine bay. The reason manufacturers like Mazda tend to draw air frim shielded places like under the header panel is any water or debris would have to defy gravity and make more bends than the Kennedy Magic Bullet to get up in there uder 99.99% conditions.

As to any "ram air" effect there are so many bend in that hose I wouldn't worry about it. just run the snorkel as far as in front of the rad and you're done. Ram Air only works at high speed anyhow, and with the low speed tradeoff of possible water or debris entering your intake (debris stopped by filter, but clogging it nonetheless) any hypothetical gains are cancelled by real-world dangers to your car.

 

Manntis,

I understand all that fine, but like I said I've talked to an expert, and I recall him saying that it is very unlikely with a rotary engine.

The filters that are "2 inches from the ground" are the aftermarket cold air setups on some import cars.... that is the reason for the AEM bypass valve. You wouldn't need that valve if the filter wasn't so low that it didn't get submerged in puddles. Hydrolock doesn't happen when a little rain gets in your air filter - it happens when your air filter is completely submerged in water and sucks a shitload of it up the intake pipe into the engine. This, in turn, only happens if your filter is very low to the ground, which is the case with some aftermarket intakes.

 

I seem to recall hydro-locking engines with ATF before...Not too hard

~T.J.

 

o/~ POP, goes the wankel ~/o



haha, not that I have a real opinion on this, but, I just thought of it and it was amusing to me at the moment :p

<- in need of sleep.

 

*shrug*

Hey, it's your car & your engine.

I wasn't saying he'll completely lock up your engine, I was saying he'll get enough stuff in there to damage and blow seals. It'll still run long enough to turn that minor damage into major ***** in a few revolutions.

See if you can argue physics with the water & crap that will damage your engine with this setup. Way more productive than trying to convince me.

As to the aftermarket intakes 2" off the ground, we've all seen some stuff that wasn't fully engineered make it to market. Any intake pipe worth it's salt should also expand in diameter to prevent the air from heating up as it passes through it (nevermind engine bay temperatures - sucking air through a tube causes the particles to semicompress and heats it) yet pretty much every aftermarket "cold" intake tube is a constant-radius type that ignores this elementary physical reality.

 

that will happen one of my friend drove his through a flooded bridge there was so much water it was over the hood i got pics some where of it. Any way 2 miles later booom. White smoke and no go. Hew drove it 30 miles on one rotor at 50 mph and said it was slower than snot but we pulled it apart and shreded one housing and rotor. But water will tear up a rotory easy.

jr

 

doesn't even need to be that much water.

a guy I know (won't call him a friend 'cause he's a jerk, so this made me giggle) drove his Dodge Nylon through a regular mud puddle, but at speed and splashed water into his "modded" intake. He made it about 500 feet after that.

 

how to hydraulic your engine 101 ....




the car survived both times but we have modified the carb to sheild it from water

heheheheheheh I'm with Mantis it is highly probable that you can hydraulic a rotary ... whether you can get enough water up the cold air pipe is another matter ...

 

All this controversy over my suggestion that he simply trim a hose by a few inches - yeesh! *L*

 

LOL im with you mantis.

 

No ****,,,but the foil makes it RACE !! C'mon man
you can do better then that ( foil / bailing wire )

 

Just on the subject of hydro-lock... this actually happened to me a few years ago. We had a flash flood here and I misjudged the height of the water while trying to get through a submerged intersection. I ended up sucking a shitload of water through the cold air intake and obviously the engine died. Anyway, after getting the car towed home some 6 hours later I put some ATF in and let it sit overnight. Next morning, turned the engine over a few times, installed new plugs and she cranked right up good as ever.