[13B]

Well I took EVERYTHING off AGAIN, and put it all back together AGAIN relating to the intake manifold and the car still will not run right. I'm getting so depressed because of it.

It starts up easily enough, but as soon as it comes on, it goes to 5500rpm and stays there with no indication of it settling down. What could cause this?!?!

There is still a decent amount of sea-foam in it, because it is still smoking really bad. Could this cause a high idle like that? I did absolutely nothing to the upper intake when I took it off, so every adjustment should be exactly the same as it was before I began. The car ran PERFECT before I took the intake off to clean the aux ports

I'm 95% sure that all of the electrical and vacuum connections are hooked up correctly and everything is bolted down tight and snug.

This is killing me because the car is over at somebody else's house because I didn't have a garage to work in and somebody has already scratched the car and broken my antenna off.

I need help.

 

stuck open throttle?

 

^Seems too high to be just a vacuum leak. Check the linkages on front and back. Make sure the OMP rod is free. Make sure the dashpot bracket did not get bent and that the dashpot is working properly. Check the cables too. Make sure nothing is jammed and the cables have a tiny bit of slack.
You can disconnect the air funnel at the throttle body and look at the top throttle plate. There should be a very tiny gap between the plate and the throat of the TB at idle. If the gap is more than paper thickness something is holding it open too far.

 

Excuse my ignorance, but what is the dashpot?

 

I was just reading through some other threads and I think I know what I've done wrong. I was attempting to undue the cruise control cable and I believe I was unscrewing that nut that adjusts the cable, which would keep the throttle plates open. I'm hoping that's the problem.

 

that's the first place to start. undo the throttle and cc cables then start the car.

 

How do I undue the CC cable? I couldn't figure out how

 

looking from the driver's side into the engine bay; you can see the throttle cable bracket with 2 12 mm nuts. just loosen the one closest to you and pull the cable out of the bracket and let it float there. that should give it enough slack. go to the other side of the engine bay and do the same for the cc cable.

 

Right here\/

 

Went to test some things, heres what happened.

Took off both throttle and c/c cables, and it dropped the idle to 3,000rpm. Then I messed around with some of the linkages, and got it to drop more. But under 3,000rpm it runs like complete ****. Makes very strange noises, like chirping, then cuts out.

Took off the radiator cap and the coolant is sort of milky caramel color. Oil dipstick looks fine. Still smoking the exhaust, but now it sort of smells like coolant.

Do I have a blown motor? How the **** could this have happened by just removing and putting the intake manifold back on? I didn't drop anything into the ports. Can these motors hydrolock? Maybe there was too much sea foam in there. Either way, I thought an apex seal would go long before a coolant seal.

It infuriates me because the car ran perfect before I tried to fix the aux ports.


I can't afford a new engine.


edit: I also took the air funnel off, and the lower two (outer) plates were wide open. Would that matter at idle?

 

sounds like you have a big vaccum leak.

 

bump?

 

Dumb question, but did you replaced all gaskets wit new ones? Like the intake manifold gasket? Did they set right? You could spray water around the intake manifold, and if the motor bogs down you found a leak. Also, did you mess wit any idle or air/fule mixture screws? The idle screw is on top of the manifold and theres the mixture screw where the stock are box is on the passanger side, (dont mess with if if you have not tuched it.) May be the idel screw needs adjusted if theres no vacume leaks or gasket problems.

 

^^ don't spray water on there please. use carb cleaner or wd-40.

 

Yes it would. They should look like those in the picture I posted earlier in the thread. They should be completely closed. Only the top one should be slightly open at rest or idle. You have something messed up in your linkage. I'll take a look at the TB's I have tomorrow and see if I can figure what you may have done.

I don't think your motor is blown. To test for bad coolant seals remove the cap from the overflow bottle. Hold the cap so the end of the tube is under the water. Start the engine and watch for constant stream of bubbles from the tube. Hopefully you will find none. If you get a constant stream the coolant seals are beginning to go.

 

"Yes it would. They should look like those in the picture I posted earlier in the thread. They should be completely closed."

The 2 on the bottom looks wide open to me. At least the 2 butterflies look open.

Going to look in the garage to see if I can find my other SE TB.

Now I'm curious.


Found my TB and the 2 bottom butterflies are open like the pic, but the top flap and the 2 bottom flaps behind the butterflies are closed.

 

The ones in the front (Secondary double throttle plates) are wide open, but the ones behind them (Main secondary throttle plates) are closed. The main secondary plates are connected to the primary thottle plate by the linkage. The double throttle plates are normally open unless the engine is cold. Then they close and do not allow full power until the car warms up. I should have supplied more details in my post. Sorry.

 

I should add that the front plates are not connected to the linkage, but are controlled by vacuum.