my car feels wierd, like its twisting
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,397
Likes: 1
From: Mound, MN
my car feels wierd, like its twisting
I have installed good wheels and tires along with illuminas and b&g springs. I have sway bars from a junkyard car. would a strut bar help this.
I was told they make a world of difference.
I was told they make a world of difference.
paradox
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 2
From: SoCal
Body flex you mean?
My second 7 had over 230,000 miles or hard driving before I got rid of it. When coming off driveways and such the sunroof and rear glass would creak
Thats chassis metal fatigue for ya
My second 7 had over 230,000 miles or hard driving before I got rid of it. When coming off driveways and such the sunroof and rear glass would creak
Thats chassis metal fatigue for ya
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,397
Likes: 1
From: Mound, MN
it just doesnt feel tight. Kind of loose, taking corners is fast but unpredictable. It pushes comming into a turn despite haveing the rear shocks set higher.
Im going to order some performace roll bars and one of the 4 point strut brace from mantis's site.
Im going to order some performace roll bars and one of the 4 point strut brace from mantis's site.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
From: indiana
you might want to check and make sure your balljoints are in good shape. when mine went bad, it handled like you describe.... squirrelly. no point putting a strut bar on there if the ball joints are bad... it won't help.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,855
Likes: 517
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
I concur with rotorhead...
Check all of your front suspension. It's a requirement for most state safety inspections.
Jack the front end of the car up (Both wheels off the ground.)... Watch the ball joint (It's at the end of the control arm, at the bottom of the knuckle.) as an assistant grips the tire and shakes it on the top and bottom. (It helps to get your fingers in the tread, or jsut grip the entire tire...) If they're loose, you'll see the joint move. You can also feel it if you shake the tire yourself...
Shake the tire side to side while watching the tie rods. (They're part of the steering system. There's two joints in them, an inner one and outer one. They have a threaded rod in the middle.) Sometimes it helps to hold the tie rod as someone else shakes the tire. A lot of times there is a little play in the steering box that can be confusing. Also observe and looseness in the Pitman arm joint. (It comes directly off the steering box.)
On the passenger side, look at the Idler arm, as well as the tie rods. (It's bolted to the frame. Also part of the steering linkage.) Because it's located next to the exhaust manifold on our cars, it tends to go bad... It shouldnt be loose. There are bushings on it that can be replaced. It also helps to hold it to feel for looseness as the tire is shaken.
If the joints look and feel tight, but there is a looseness felt up and down and side to side, it may be the wheel bearing. It's aways good maintenance to repack them with grease and tighten them periodically anyhow.
Check all of your front suspension. It's a requirement for most state safety inspections.
Jack the front end of the car up (Both wheels off the ground.)... Watch the ball joint (It's at the end of the control arm, at the bottom of the knuckle.) as an assistant grips the tire and shakes it on the top and bottom. (It helps to get your fingers in the tread, or jsut grip the entire tire...) If they're loose, you'll see the joint move. You can also feel it if you shake the tire yourself...
Shake the tire side to side while watching the tie rods. (They're part of the steering system. There's two joints in them, an inner one and outer one. They have a threaded rod in the middle.) Sometimes it helps to hold the tie rod as someone else shakes the tire. A lot of times there is a little play in the steering box that can be confusing. Also observe and looseness in the Pitman arm joint. (It comes directly off the steering box.)
On the passenger side, look at the Idler arm, as well as the tie rods. (It's bolted to the frame. Also part of the steering linkage.) Because it's located next to the exhaust manifold on our cars, it tends to go bad... It shouldnt be loose. There are bushings on it that can be replaced. It also helps to hold it to feel for looseness as the tire is shaken.
If the joints look and feel tight, but there is a looseness felt up and down and side to side, it may be the wheel bearing. It's aways good maintenance to repack them with grease and tighten them periodically anyhow.
Trending Topics
Full Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Victoria, BC, Canada
If your on the old stock bushings i'd swich them to Energy polyurithanes too.... I did every one that is available for the car and it made a HUGE difference. It handles WAY better and feels very stable now.
Before doing the swap to poly. the car felt like the front an rear wheels were tracking differently (probably were), and it gave a sensation that it was pivoting at the center of the car at random times and directions. It made the car feel very unstable even when it had decient level of grip.
Some people dont like to put the rear poly kit in because they say it's too prone to oversteer with the rear done... but i found that the oversteer is only slightly more pronounced (205/60-13's, 31psi front, 29psi rear), but it is a very predictable and controlable balance, it worked well at the autox.
Before doing the swap to poly. the car felt like the front an rear wheels were tracking differently (probably were), and it gave a sensation that it was pivoting at the center of the car at random times and directions. It made the car feel very unstable even when it had decient level of grip.
Some people dont like to put the rear poly kit in because they say it's too prone to oversteer with the rear done... but i found that the oversteer is only slightly more pronounced (205/60-13's, 31psi front, 29psi rear), but it is a very predictable and controlable balance, it worked well at the autox.
yeah, i'd say replace the all the suspension bushings if you haven't already done so. Rx-7's are notorious for having subtle to "this is so gay"-understeer, right before VIOLENTLY switching to snap-"holy ****"- oversteer! ... which usually keeps you quite busy with the steering wheel. it's because of the stock bushings being dead. this was something that i studied in detail (with videos) on my '83 ... years ago. so get the bushings replaced as a starting point.
the strut tower braces do make a difference, but you'd probably be better served by getting a nice pair of sway bars before getting the strut tower brace.
just out of curiosity, what are the spring rates of B & G springs? how do they compare to the other aftermarket units (RB, Eibach, ST, etc.)?
the strut tower braces do make a difference, but you'd probably be better served by getting a nice pair of sway bars before getting the strut tower brace.
just out of curiosity, what are the spring rates of B & G springs? how do they compare to the other aftermarket units (RB, Eibach, ST, etc.)?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post