12a, stock carb, stock fuel pump, no rats nest, year old plugs and wires, gets fuel

tried to start up my car yesterday, didn't get anywhere. when it cranks, it spins much faster, like it has no compression.

i can hear the pulse from the exhaust of the rotors turning, but i am getting absolutely no ignition at all. plugs ARE getting spark. did my engine go?

 

Deflood procedure, you have compression loss from flooding I would guess.

 

While you have the plugs out for cleaning, do a ghetto compression test. Remove 1 lower plug, crank engine over and listen for 3 even whooshes. Replace plug, do the same for the other rotor. Be sure to remove the rotor from the dizzy, don't need an engine bay fire. Once plugs are clean and reinstalled, pour a capful of motor oil down each primary barrel of the carb. This will help restore compression for starting.

 

Also check the coils. Sometimes they leak and go to ground. This will stop the car from starting.

 

im going through the same thing... though its only after she has been sitting for a few hours... i just bought a new battery(with 700 cold cranking amps) too thinking that could be it but the next morning same deal... i have found that i have to spray the heck out of it with starter flooid.... then some oil, starter fluid, oil then its a tricky half a pump here and there to get it to run with out me holding the key all the way on....... im going to check the coils grounds as well as the batterys... the other day i went to go start her and nothing happened at all, no dummy lights nothing... so i popped the hood, wiggled the wires to the battery and what do you know she started up...

 

Pick up a can of Seafoam, pour an ounce or two down the carb, then try again to start it. By far the easiest way to deflood a rotary.

 

Wait a while after you shut her down next time, then look down into the carb and see if fuel leaking into the barrels. Don't smoke while doing this....

Another possibility would be that your timing is off, but check for pooling fuel first.

 

I would clean (wire brush) or replace your battery terminals. If you wiggled the cables and got the car to start, whatever you wiggled is not making a solid electrical contact.

 

so... anyone selling a 12a?
ghetto compression test = not good.

 

well i bought new battery cables and terminals... ill let you know the out come tonight if i have the time to get in there and change them. sorry about your motor... i just swapped motors myself.. good luck on your 12a search! i ended up just buying another fb that was in bad shape that had a decent motor... you got lots of exra goodies that way too!

 

if it sat for a while you may just have a stuck seal.
do what trochoid suggest with oil down the carb.
that will build enough compression for it to start and then the centrifical force of the engine should pop the stuck seal/seals back into place.
once it starts hold the revs high until it feels right again.

 

I hope I can post this remedy. It is somewhat lengthy but if you haven't tried deflooding or aren't aware of it this can change your nightmare into a love affair. The Rx has a history of flooding easily and if you have this procedure in your back pocket it can save you from being stranded.
Here it is:

RX-7 Unflooding Procedure
79-85 12A Carbureted

Overview

We have included some background information on this condition to help avoid the situation in the future. The actual unflooding procedure has been divided into two segments. One is an easy "two-step" process which can be done by anyone. It is effective in 90% of all flooded conditions. This procedure should always be tried before attempting the complex process. Since the complex process involves pulling the spark plugs, only people with adequate tools and mechanical aptitude should attempt it.
Common Symptoms
• Vehicle was running fine the last time I parked it, but now it won't start
• I can hear the engine rotating, but it sounds strange. Also, I smell gasoline.
• I moved my car from the garage to the street, turned it off and now it won't start.
• My car has been sitting for a long time and won't start.
Background
The RX-7 is well known for flooding problems. One of the most common is caused by a "short start" condition. The "short start" is when someone starts the vehicle and turns it off before it is allowed to reach full operating temperature. The typical situation is moving the vehicle from one parking spot to another(ex: from garage to driveway). Cooler weather, especially temperatures below 70 degrees, aggravate the situation. What has happened, is the engine is still in the cold-start warmup cycle. Fortunately, the carbureted model of the RX-7 is the least prone to flooding problems. However, they are prone to easily flooding if vehicle sits for an extended period. If consistent starting problems are experienced outside of the short-start situation or a non-start due to extended inactivity, service is probably needed to the vehicle.
Rules of thumb
• You will have to actively unflood the vehicle. RX-7's WILL NOT unflood themselves, even if allowed to sit for long periods of time.
• If car is heavily flooded, spark plug replacement and oil changing may be required.
• There is no cure for the short start problem other than the discipline to avoid the situation
• ALWAYS ALLOW THE VEHICLE TO REACH FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURE BEFORE TURNING ENGINE OFF


Easy 2-Step Method(1979-85 carbureted)
PREPARATION
Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.
SUPPLIES
Qt. Automatic transmission fluid(ATF)-any type or brand
STEP ONE
Locate air filter housing on passengers side of engine compartment. Remove lid from air filter housing. Identify two smaller barrels of the 4-barrel carburetor. Pour approx. one ounce of automatic transmission fluid(ATF)in each of the two smaller barrels. Reinstall carburetor lid.

Typical aircleaner arrangement
Two smaller barrels viewed from passengers side
STEP TWO
Get back in vehicle and pump gas approximately five times. Start car with accelerator held firmly to the floor. Engine should start and release throttle. Set choke as needed to keep engine running. Note: Exhaust will smoke EXTREMELY heavily once started. The more the engine was flooded, the more it will smoke. If flooded very badly, it is recommended to change the engine oil at earliest convenience.

Complex Unflooding Procedure(1979-85 carbureted)
Note: This procedure is only to be done by persons with adequate tools and experience. Also, it is intended to be done after attempts to unflood with the Easy 2-step Method have failed.
TOOLS
• Standard 13/16 spark plug socket and ratchet
• One quart automatic transmission fluid(ATF)-any type
• NGK spark plug set(if needed)
PREPARATION
Battery needs to still have a reasonable charge. If engine is cranking slowly, please charge battery first or connect jumper cables.
STEP ONE
Engine has (4)spark plugs arranged in a square pattern on the drivers side of engine. Please label each plug wire and remove all four plugs. Note: It is absolutely imperative that the wires be able to go back onto the correct spark plug hole when the procedure is completed. Also, make sure plug wires are out of the way of the accessory belts to avoid tangling when engine cranked in step two.

Spark plug side of engine
Another version of plug side of engine

Trace wires from dist cap to plugs
Spark plug side of engine
STEP TWO
Make sure all four spark plugs are pulled and wires are away from accessories and belts. Get inside of vehicle, hold accelerator on floor, and crank engine for approx. 15~20 seconds. Engine WILL NOT start during this procedure.
STEP THREE
Examine original spark plugs. Clean and dry carefully, if still in acceptable condition. Use a brand new set of NGK plugs, if necessary.
Install plugs and reattach spark plug wires. Note: As mentioned before, it is absolutely imperative that the right wire go to the right hole. Wires can be traced one-by-one from their distributor cap connection. Each cap connection is labeled L1, L2, T1 or T2. Remember T stands for top, L for lower, 1 for front and 2 for rear.
STEP FOUR
Locate air filter housing on passengers side of engine compartment. Remove lid from air filter housing. Identify two smaller barrels of the 4-barrel carburetor. Pour approx. one ounce of automatic transmission fluid(ATF)in each of the two smaller barrels. Reinstall carburetor lid.

Typical aircleaner arrangement
Two smaller barrels viewed from passengers side
STEP FIVE
Get back in vehicle and pump gas approximately five times. Start car with accelerator held firmly to the floor. Engine should start and release throttle. Set choke as needed to keep engine running. Note: Exhaust will smoke EXTREMELY heavily once started. The more the engine was flooded, the more it will smoke. If flooded very badly, it is recommended to change the engine oil at earliest convenience.

 

There are so many de-flooding procedures out there, and most of them will work. And you can tell that some people have gone to great lengths to figure out how to revive these motors, and to document that process. However, we have moved beyond this... As I discovered a couple of years ago, there is a much much easier way.

1. Remove air cleaner
2. Pour an ounce or two of Seafoam down the small barrels of the carb
3. Start the car

It really is as simple as that. It has never failed me. My old motor had **** for compression, so flooding was damn near a weekly event for me.

Added benefits of this procedure:

1. Cleans the carbon out of the motor. Car will be noticeably more peppy afterwards.
2. Cleans the spark plugs (no need to remove and clean them like when using oil or ATF)
3. Cloud of white smoke kills all mosquitos in a twelve mile radius, and give the fire dept. something to do.
4. Can be done in under two minutes.

I have been recommending this procedure for over a year, and have never once had a reply that it failed to work. Hopefully this will save some 7 lovers some time and trouble...



.

 

Very helpful. I will try that tomorrow.

 

just wanted to say thanks guys, it was a combo of extreme flood-ation and a stuck seal. i'm up and running again! so awesome, i missed my 7.

do i need to worry about a "stuck seal" again in the future? coudl this end up being a recurring problem? what causes it...
looks like i need to start searching

 

if the seal seems to be moving properly now, then you're probably okay. Long term sitting can cause the seals to stick. Hit the redline every so often, and put a can of Seafoam in the gas tank once a month, and you'll probably be in good shape.

Congratulations!