Alright guys I bought it, 13b 6 port off a 87 gxl and with the advice of a few members here i decided to fo FI.

I got lucky and the guy threw in the ecu and spark plug wires for $50. So i bought the engine + ecu + wires for $300. And i have to say the engine looks pretty clean except for some dirt build up and crappy looking pulleys.

So here are some pics: question about the picture of the side (2nd one) what is the goldish plate in the middle? Also is that the throttle body we are looking at that looks like a carb?

Alright so i will begin to clean it up. Piece by piece im just going to scrub it and use engine brite on it.

Real quick heres a modified list of parts i need for FI (correct?):
SE front cover, oil pan, and gas tank
Bigger Fuel Pump and Regulator and Filter
Radiator hoses
13B exhaust
Intake Manifold
Ecu (got it)
Hard fuel lines
Flywheel
Wiring harness
**mounting bar** anyone have a website where they sell this?

any comments or suggestions feel free to inform me please!
also looking for these parts.


Thank you very much! honestly you guys r awesome.

 

lol, 4 got to post pics, here ya go

 

The P.O. stripped off all the smog gear.
The gold plate is where the ACV used to be.The ACV routes air from the smog pump to the exhaust ports and catylist.

 

the p.o. ?is this good or bad cuz it sounds bad... you can't leave me hanging man!

 

p.o = previous owner i think

smog gear removal has saved you some work :-)

 

**** yes, so i can just remove the rats nest correct?

 

ok so im going to dissemble the engine to the block just to deep clean it. I will not be opening it up just down to the block. Is there anything i should be aware of before hand?
I have the Haynes manual (79-85) but it has a 13th chapter on the 13b engine dissembly but it doesn not go into detail, it just tells me in what order to remove the parts.

I am going to clesn the block with Engine brite from kragen and then im going to paint it. Any tips or comments are welcomed. Thanks again.

 

You can remove the entire rats nest almost as a single unit.Theres no trick to getting down to a bare block,just start unscrewing stuff and get the intake/exhaust ports plugged.

The factory ECU on the 86-88 cars isnt too bright,so you should be able to run without any smog gear at all,just be sure you retain all the gear needed to make the EFI happy, like TPS,AFM,temp senors,baro sensor,ect,ect......
If your not sure which is which,then its time to get over to TeamFC3S.org and read the S4 factory service manual.....its a great piece of info.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory...ual/1986_1988/

BTW,you dont have to smog the car?

 

well yes i do "smog" the car and it just "happens" to pass everytime without "problem" for a "small" fee of course. Got it?

K i just ordered the haynes 87 rx7 repair manual so ill be good with the parts.

I was also looking at the induction system...... what are you guys doing for this, just stock ... or should i ask in 2nd gen forum?

 

Did you get the rest of the intake with the engine? You need the maf and the rest of the intake to the throttle body. There are adapters to mount a cone filter on the maf sensor.

If you don't have the maf and tubing, go back and get it, the engine will not run without the maf.

 

**** that link is pretty good i think i just wasted 10$ on haynes manual....

 

What is maf and tubing... i was just going to buy this one for $20.
http://www.craigslist.org/pen/pts/161687752.html

 

All of that is the part ahead of the maf, you don't need it. Check out the 2nd gen section and look for S4 NA engine bay pics.

 

Confused trochoid? I do or dont need it man? What would bolt up to the throttle body if i didnt need it?

PLEASE no acrynoms unless i use them first so you know that i know what you are talking about.


got

 

That part you linked is the stock airbox and the MAF (Mass Air Flow) is not included. The airbox is before the MAF and won't get you any closer to a running car.

Trochoid is telling you to get the MAF and then buy an adaptor off ebay (<$20 I think) to put a cone filter on it. This method would be preferred because the engine will breathe better (more HP) with the cone filter.

 

That airbox and snorkle are not needed,just restrictive junk.

The MAF or AFM, is the electrical device that measures the air going into the engine,and its the heart of the EFI system.Its aluminum and has a flapper door in it.
You need every electronic device that plugs into the big wiring harness that leads to the engine.Some of the rats nest stuff on the engine can go,but all the sensors that mount to the right side fender and plug into that harness,MUST BE INTACT.....that includes,
The Air Flow Meter (big silver box)
The Boost sensor (little black box with a vacuum hose and electrical plug)
The Baro sensor (also a little black box,goes inside the car next to the ECU)
The ECU (the brain box that runs the engine)

Read up on that link,its the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL from Mazda.It has all the info and pics you need and its never wrong.Sometimes info in the aftermarket books is just flat wrong,although the Hayes is one of the better ones.It has many pics pulled directly from the factory book,but the factory one has every single little part laid out an explained with clear pictures which makes it MUCH easier to learn what each part is and what it does.

Also,be sure that any electrical parts you get for your setup are matching.There were 3 basic systems on the 2nd gen car,2 types of S4 and the one S5.You CANNOT mix and match them or you will have problems.
The break points are......
86 - 87.5
87.5 - 88
89 - 92

The easiest way to make sure you are getting things right,is to match the numbers on the parts,with the numbers on the ECU.You did get an ECU with the engine right?The ECU(fuel injection brain box) will have a number on it like N332 or N370.Whatever parts you need to get still,must match the number on the ECU box.If you dont have an ECU box,you need to find out EXACTLY what year/month your engine is/was so that you can determine which ECU is correct for the injectors you are running.If you are not sure,you can read the numbers and colors of the fuel injectors and we/I can tell you exactly which series/type of FC engine you have.

 

OK heres my ecu it is number N237... so when was my car made pre 87.5 or post 87.5?

 

sorry again.....


you guys are talking bout this thing right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MAZDA...ayphotohosting


where did you get $20 bux at?

 

Assuming the ECU and engine are a match..........

You have an 87.5 to 88 engine and ECU.
That means that you have HIGH IMPEDENCE FUEL INJECTORS.Thats the main thing to watch out for,as you cant mix high and low impedence injectors or the ECU's that control them.
If you pickup any more electronic stuff for the EFI,it needs to have that same number on it.The majority of the engine electonic stuff will have the N327 number on it,look for that number on all the electrical items bolted to the engine and intake manifold.If the number is different,do not use that part it until its been verified to be OK.Some items you can swap between ECU styles,but most you cannot.

 

alright man. Thanks again your awesome.

 

Do i have to buy a ac compressor and p/s pump bracket? The engine did nopt come with them
does my car even have power steering right now? If i dont need it i can live without a/c at least until im situated with the engine in the car.

 

Questions:
Im starting to look for parts that I need. So where do they sell a mounting bracket at? I realized that the engine mounts on the fc are too far back for my car. So i need a mounting bracket right?

Also this is my FMOC correct? how or where would i mount this?

Last pic is of an engine stand i bought for $20, looks brand new.

I should have engine stripped and cleaned within the week.
I hope ill find all the parts by end of June and engine in by end of September. Give me plenty of time to understand this crap.

 

pics...
i have to get rid of that pink bumper damnit

 

Youll need to get a GSL-SE front cover and oilpan for the engine.You could delete the oil metering pump,run premix and use a 12A front cover,but thats taking it a bit far.....unless you want it easy as it can be, and dont mind premixing oil in the fuel tank.
You have to find a GSL-SE oilpan,no getting around that one.
The front mount bar needs to be a notched 1st gen unit,or get GSL-SE rubber mounts and main crossmember.....or just the SE rubber mount and slightly less notching to the mount bar.

Thats the FC oil cooler.Its a great unit,but youll have to figure out mounting it custom-style.I welded brackets on,but Ive seen guys just use U-bolts on the front tube....

If you dont know whether your car has power steering or not......you better start reading now!!!.....J/K...but seriously,PS is easy to spot.Just look for a belt driven pump and hoses leading to the steering box.Only some GSL and SE 1st gens had PS.....

 

notched 1st gen unit? is that just the stock engine brace already on my car?
so with an se front cover how would i put the 12a's engine brace on it?