No both rotors do Not sit in the same position! But the leading coils do fire at the same time(direct fire only)! I have been told, Trailing, should be completely advanced and vac advance should be romoved. That is the way mine is set up, with my leading slightly advanced.

12aBridgeport: That is weird when I converted to Direct Fire, I also didnt have the plug coming from my dist to the box connected completly, but didnt burn anything up? Does your tach still work? Because mine died afeter I converted? I never had any tach problems until then.

 

Yeah my tach is working now because i kept the trailing the way it is.

About the burned up msd though...the only other thing i can think of is the negative cable from the old harness might have touched the negative cable on the new harness that goes from msd to coil, actually i know it was slightly touching...stupid me. But still the stock ignitor was disconnected so i'm not sure if that was it too.

BTW does anyone knows if anything bad happenes when you switch polarities on the coil. What happened was i switch around one coil but in the process turned upside down the other coil. Turned the power on for a few moments noticed something wasn't right and turned it off. Everything seems to work, actually i have the car at work with me right now...but i don't know if i should watch out for something.

 

I think it should be alright, I think coils are pretty tough. I could be wrong Iam not a master tech! Neg touching neg, I wouldnt think it would hurt?

I left my trailing alone too, but doesnt matter, because my tach is still gone?

 

How can you advance the trailing and remove the vaccuum advance. If you advance the traling by turning the dis. ou advance everything including the leading. I havent hooked up the tach yet. I'll do that today.

 

bump

 

813KR$, if you think that's not the case, i have no idea why the thing burned up...unless the box itself was defective


Racingtang, to remove the vacum advance just remove the two cables that go from the carby to the dizzy at the trailing side. And don't forget to plug up the carb at the place you removed the cable, otherwise it's going to run a little funky.

To advance the trailing you need to loosen the two screws from one of the little yellowish bell looking thingies that you have pulled out the vacum cables from. You would need to pull it down for advance or up for retarding.

 

Probably defective if they are fixing it for free?

 

What about the leading, do I still leave the vaccuum line on it.

Oh yeah, Do I need to hook up the condenser from the dis. anywhere.

 

What does a condenser do?

 

If you still have an old dizzy i'm not sure about it because i have '84 dizzy and there is no leading vacuum line.

 

You should have two vacuum lines, right. left leading, right one trailing at least from what I've seen so far.

 

Well guess what I fugured out, It really pissed me off to. I pondering while cleaning my garage since I had given up on the MAz. I was thinking, didn't Mazda hook the fuel pump into the igniton coils so I started to look, hooked some jumpers and what did I find the fuel pump wasn't pump. So of course I couldn't get fu*ker to run. So I've got it running now, Tach and all and revs up pretty good. I still have a rough idel though, It bounces within a 200rpm range back and forth.

 

"How can you advance the trailing and remove the vaccuum advance. If you advance the traling by turning the dis. ou advance everything including the leading. I havent hooked up the tach yet. I'll do that today"

You dont advance the trailing by turning the dist. You advance the trailing by pulling out the the bottom, metal round thing that the vac advance tube hooks to that is on the side of the dist. the one closest to the spark plugs. You advance and retard the leading by turning the dist.

Do you have an after market tach? If not explain to me how you hooked your tach back up, because mine deid after I installed my MSD Direct Fire Ignition.

 

I hooked the tach wire directly to the negative side of the trailing coil. My wire was a yellow w/ green stripe wire.

What are you setting your timing at? This is not a daily driver. More of a race around here and there car.

Now that I have done my mods. I have a loopy idle. It revs up fine but now it kinda shakes like I have a high lift cam in it. I know it dosn't have a cam but for comparison purposes. Is this normal.

 

Yes, it is normal, if your engine is street ported! My leading timming is slightly advanced, when set at stock I can feel a real drag, runs really shitty!

I have that wired hooked up, but still doesnt work? I need to see if my trailing igniter still is working, that is the only thing I can think of that could be wrong with my tach?

 

I know I can check the trailing timing fine because I'm still using the dis. What about the leading, do I just have to kinda wing it or can I actually set it.

 

It can be set the same way as it always has. It is done with the mag pick up in the dist, the same way.

 

I was playing around with the car today and I thought I would try something. I ran the trailing ignitor as usally straight to the coil and then to the dis. trailing. I then ran the MSD to the coil and then to the dis. and then to the plugs. Pretty much just like normal except I ran the MSD into the Dis instead of straight to the plugs. The car runs a lot smoother now. I've heard that its a waste to it that way but thats the way a standard MSD system would working anyway. I think I will leave it like this until I get the Dis. in from the 81 Rx.

 

I want 3 of these to complement my directfire MSD

 

That thing looks NASTY! I want some too, how much do they cost and how much juice do they shoot! More than the blaster 2?

Racintang: All the dist will do by running the leading through it, is reduce the spark that reaches your plugs and not allow the wasted spark to go to the plug, which will make the exhaust smell worse. If it works for you.

 

I'm going to use it right now and get everhting tuned up the way I like it. I still have my 3rd coil pack mounted so all I have to do use hop my jumpers over. 1 min. switch over.

 

Well, I figured out that it was my trailing igniter that was making my tach not work, spent a few hours searching for one in some junk yards and found a couple, only one worked out of the two but that is all I needed. My engine is running a Hell of alot better!