1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Motor might blown, what now?

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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 01:36 AM
  #1  
aGoGo's Avatar
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From: MN
Motor might blown, what now?

Hi all

I need some idea from you guys

It run a bit rough when I turn it off after I redline few times, but couldn't get it idle smooth next time I try to restarted it ... and it got worse and wouldn't idle now, it sounds like it is on one rotor at low rpms, but sounded better when I rev it up ... it sputters and shakes but it did rev up to 6000, however the power felt a bit "soft".

It was dark outside and I was in the parking lot at work. I only manage to do a brief check on vacume leaks, and changed the spark plugs, as well as throwing in half can of Power Form, which made things worse. My carb was rebult last year, striped and capped. I did a cheap check on compression by pulling the plugs and cranking the motor, it sounded sorta ok.

Except running low on one rotor, I am not sure what this could be. I need your ideas and all.

If the motor is gone, I am thinking about doing a rebuilt, and could anyone tell me some good and cheap places to shop for seals and rebuild kit? I already checked Atkins and Ebay, and hope to see more options. Also if someone has a good running 12A for sale for cheap, that could be an option too, btw local shop sells 50K mile 12A at $400 a piece.

The suck part is, I bought FBII's whole 12A turbo setup and planning on putting it in this weekend... I hope I can get everything figured out when the winterhits in MN.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 02:05 AM
  #2  
Rotor13B's Avatar
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From: Longmont Co.
Originally Posted by aGoGo
Hi all

I need some idea from you guys

It run a bit rough when I turn it off after I redline few times, but couldn't get it idle smooth next time I try to restarted it ... and it got worse and wouldn't idle now, it sounds like it is on one rotor at low rpms, but sounded better when I rev it up ... it sputters and shakes but it did rev up to 6000, however the power felt a bit "soft".

It was dark outside and I was in the parking lot at work. I only manage to do a brief check on vacume leaks, and changed the spark plugs, as well as throwing in half can of Power Form, which made things worse. My carb was rebult last year, striped and capped. I did a cheap check on compression by pulling the plugs and cranking the motor, it sounded sorta ok.

Except running low on one rotor, I am not sure what this could be. I need your ideas and all.

If the motor is gone, I am thinking about doing a rebuilt, and could anyone tell me some good and cheap places to shop for seals and rebuild kit? I already checked Atkins and Ebay, and hope to see more options. Also if someone has a good running 12A for sale for cheap, that could be an option too, btw local shop sells 50K mile 12A at $400 a piece.

The suck part is, I bought FBII's whole 12A turbo setup and planning on putting it in this weekend... I hope I can get everything figured out when the winterhits in MN.

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post
I had this same thing happen, Turn out to be a fuel issue I.e. not enough fuel was getting to the motor rear rotor. Check fuel filters and screens to see if there is blockage. It wouldn't hurt to check your complete ignition system also.(weak spark)
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 02:20 AM
  #3  
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From: MN
Can we elaborate abit? Oh Thanks budy.

Just trying to sort out the logic here:

How would a blockage in fuel line starving only one rotor?
How would a failing ignition component results in bad ignition especially at low RPM and constant accelerator positions while reving up it fine?

Thanks again

If I got weak sparks what should I do, and options?
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 03:28 AM
  #4  
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From: wishing i was back in FL
could be ignition related as when you are in neutral reving it up there isnt any load. when you are moving it needs more/stronger spark which you may possibly be lacking. check your plugs, you may have lost an ignitor? it does sound ignition related. you should check compression with a tester just to be safe
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 05:39 AM
  #5  
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From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Yeah, I'm thinking ignition would be the place to start. Verify that you have spark on your leading ignition before digging too deeply into anything else...
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 08:21 AM
  #6  
Hades12's Avatar
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From: Union Mills NC
Originally Posted by aGoGo
Also if someone has a good running 12A for sale for cheap, that could be an option too, btw local shop sells 50K mile 12A at $400 a piece.
That is a good price for a low mile engine.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 09:03 AM
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From: Knoxville, Tennessee
Check your distributor cap. I had a similar problem last winter. Whenever there was a lot of moisture in the air, my engine sounded like it was on one rotor and with the choke pulled, the rmps would slowly drop. When I looked inside the distributor, there were burn marks on the cap and rotor. I am almost positive this was the cause of my trouble.
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 11:19 AM
  #8  
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From: MN
Cleaned the Distributor cap, although there are some grooves in the contacts. Haven't checked the spark yet, did the gheto compressiong test again by cranking with starter ... sounded ok. What kinda process it goes through when I ignitor start to fail (or just fai all of a sudden) ? Thanks
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Old Aug 5, 2005 | 12:34 PM
  #9  
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From: wishing i was back in FL
they can fail out of the blue. you really need to get a compression tester if you want to know the truth. hearing the puffs is one thing, knowing that the apex seals are still intact but you have 70 in the rear rotor is another.
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