More sleep deprived babble, but it might just lead to something...
07-06-02, 01:24 AM
#1
Beware Of Squirrely Wrath
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
More sleep deprived babble, but it might just lead to something...
First Question - I know it's probably sacreligious to even think this, but what do you guys think about using contact paper as a *TEMPORARY* cheap fix for the top panels on my door interiors? As in, how well do you think it might work/last?
Second Question - I was talking to a guy I work with about different possibilities for an intake scheme, and here's what he came up with from his 50's/60's racing days: Where the air/heater intake vent is just ahead of the windshield, remove a small section of the firewall, and put an intake in there leading to the air cleaner. He says that there is a turbulance effect where the air first hits the bottom of the windshield there that would give a slight amount of boost and it would also be cooler air... Any thoughts?
BrianHeston
Second Question - I was talking to a guy I work with about different possibilities for an intake scheme, and here's what he came up with from his 50's/60's racing days: Where the air/heater intake vent is just ahead of the windshield, remove a small section of the firewall, and put an intake in there leading to the air cleaner. He says that there is a turbulance effect where the air first hits the bottom of the windshield there that would give a slight amount of boost and it would also be cooler air... Any thoughts?
BrianHeston
07-06-02, 01:35 AM
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Lusby, MD
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey Brian,
The second question would be cowl induction. This was popular back then but they have designed better alternatives. Drawing air into the intake from the high pressure area at the front of the car is what makes the most sense. The 85 GSL-SE my mother got has this setup stock. You could probably make this setup work on your car. I don't believe it was a turbulance issue with cowl induction in the past it was just that a hi pressure area is created at the windshield base due to airflow which helped feed cold air to the engine. In those days they use to suck air from the engine compartment after it went through the radiator. Warm air sucks unless it's cold outside.
Don
The second question would be cowl induction. This was popular back then but they have designed better alternatives. Drawing air into the intake from the high pressure area at the front of the car is what makes the most sense. The 85 GSL-SE my mother got has this setup stock. You could probably make this setup work on your car. I don't believe it was a turbulance issue with cowl induction in the past it was just that a hi pressure area is created at the windshield base due to airflow which helped feed cold air to the engine. In those days they use to suck air from the engine compartment after it went through the radiator. Warm air sucks unless it's cold outside.
Don
07-06-02, 01:45 AM
#3
Beware Of Squirrely Wrath
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My main reason for considering this option is that it would not have to be permenant, but it would be a cheap solution for now. I guess what I'm asking is - If you were broke and it was your car, would you do it as a temporary thing, or just start saving money for a better system?
BrianHeston
BrianHeston
07-06-02, 02:31 AM
#4
add to cart
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
Posts: 4,180
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As to the tops of your door panels, go to a fabric supply store. They'll have upholstery vinyl with a soft backing that is a lot like factory interior vinyl.
Remove the door interior trim panel from the door and strip off the moulded handles and map pockets.
Remove the center section of leather or fabric that creates the accent just behind the door handle on the door trim panel.
You peel off the existing cracked plastic from the top of the door panel then spray on some 3M high-temperature adhesive to the moulded cardboard panel that makes up the substructure of the door trim (don't spray too much or it'll run everywhere)
Then lay a cut strip of vinyl from the middle of the panel to the top. curl it over the top and just inside the back of the cardboard. Trim out a narrow rectangle for the door lock pull to jut through the top.
Reassemble the door trim panel and handles, etc. and replace it on the door- you'll notice the center leather or fabric piece covers the bottom seam of the newly installed vinyl and it looks reasonably good.
Other than the $30 cost of the 3M adhesive, which is required because interiors get hot enough to melt most glues and you don't want this coming undone while your car sits, the vinyl should cost you about $5-$10, making this an effective interior repair. Fit and finish comes down to your care and attention, but it can even look close to stock.
I did this to the burgundy door panels on my '83 ReX. Took about 1/2 an hour.
Remove the door interior trim panel from the door and strip off the moulded handles and map pockets.
Remove the center section of leather or fabric that creates the accent just behind the door handle on the door trim panel.
You peel off the existing cracked plastic from the top of the door panel then spray on some 3M high-temperature adhesive to the moulded cardboard panel that makes up the substructure of the door trim (don't spray too much or it'll run everywhere)
Then lay a cut strip of vinyl from the middle of the panel to the top. curl it over the top and just inside the back of the cardboard. Trim out a narrow rectangle for the door lock pull to jut through the top.
Reassemble the door trim panel and handles, etc. and replace it on the door- you'll notice the center leather or fabric piece covers the bottom seam of the newly installed vinyl and it looks reasonably good.
Other than the $30 cost of the 3M adhesive, which is required because interiors get hot enough to melt most glues and you don't want this coming undone while your car sits, the vinyl should cost you about $5-$10, making this an effective interior repair. Fit and finish comes down to your care and attention, but it can even look close to stock.
I did this to the burgundy door panels on my '83 ReX. Took about 1/2 an hour.
07-06-02, 07:05 AM
#6
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Trying to convince some clown not to put a Holley 600 on his 12a.
Posts: 2,890
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
6 Posts
Brian,
Cowl induction is a very deliberate system. There is a shroud over the air cleaner, and effectively what it all amounts to is a cold air box. Some cowl inductions were great, but some that were put on cars just so they could say "Cowl Induction", really sucked.
But what you're talking about is niether of those. You're wanting to make a rear door for your carb to breathe by, taking advantage of turbulence that may or may not be created by our windshields.
Two things come to mind:
The old schooler you talked to was working on cars that had terrible drag coefficients. IE, their windshields probably made great turbulences! Not so sure ours do.
The other thing is that you have a substansial amount of air trying to cram its way into the front of your engine bay.
Cutting a hole at the other end will be a bit like putting a nail hole in a garden hose. You'll just be creating a vent for the air to pass through, completely uneffecting your carb. About the only thing you could hope for I think would be a slightly cooler charge, but certainly not enough for you to gain appreciably enough to be cuttin a hole in yer firewall!
You want a happy carb? Build a cold air box that goes from the front of the engine bay right to the carb. It'll direct air the same a s cowl induction if it's set up correctly. Make the open end a little bigger than it needs to be. The effect a tapered tube gives is that the airflow becomes slightly pressurized. You should have a free-flowing air filter, like a K&N, or at least use a brand new filter.
Cutting a hole in my firewall is something I would never do for a "temporary fix"; and even for permanent, it had better be sure to work before I do something like that!
Cowl induction is a very deliberate system. There is a shroud over the air cleaner, and effectively what it all amounts to is a cold air box. Some cowl inductions were great, but some that were put on cars just so they could say "Cowl Induction", really sucked.
But what you're talking about is niether of those. You're wanting to make a rear door for your carb to breathe by, taking advantage of turbulence that may or may not be created by our windshields.
Two things come to mind:
The old schooler you talked to was working on cars that had terrible drag coefficients. IE, their windshields probably made great turbulences! Not so sure ours do.
The other thing is that you have a substansial amount of air trying to cram its way into the front of your engine bay.
Cutting a hole at the other end will be a bit like putting a nail hole in a garden hose. You'll just be creating a vent for the air to pass through, completely uneffecting your carb. About the only thing you could hope for I think would be a slightly cooler charge, but certainly not enough for you to gain appreciably enough to be cuttin a hole in yer firewall!
You want a happy carb? Build a cold air box that goes from the front of the engine bay right to the carb. It'll direct air the same a s cowl induction if it's set up correctly. Make the open end a little bigger than it needs to be. The effect a tapered tube gives is that the airflow becomes slightly pressurized. You should have a free-flowing air filter, like a K&N, or at least use a brand new filter.
Cutting a hole in my firewall is something I would never do for a "temporary fix"; and even for permanent, it had better be sure to work before I do something like that!
07-06-02, 03:54 PM
#7
Beware Of Squirrely Wrath
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2002
Location: SW Washington
Posts: 713
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well as I said, I was sleep deprived... But just to clear up some confusion due to my lack of a clear explanation, I was actually planning to block off the main intake tube if I were to do this, and possibly install a fan within the new intake tube for more pressure.
Brian
Brian
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post