MontanaKid'S SA project part I!!!!!
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Joined: May 2007
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From: Boulder, Co
English Wheel
English wheel now on sale at Harbor Freight.
Thanks for the how to, that was good. I'm sure it's harder than you make it sound, but if I had an english wheel I might try that! Good work, I can't wait to see the finished product. I'm working on a project, and I will probably use fiberglass instead. I have a ton of respect for the all metal body mods though!
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Montana
Yeah it's a piston engine.
The english wheels at harbor freight look pretty decent too. You can barely build one for that price . trust me. They have a pneumatic planishing hammer on there for pretty cheap as well. That would be nice.
The english wheels at harbor freight look pretty decent too. You can barely build one for that price . trust me. They have a pneumatic planishing hammer on there for pretty cheap as well. That would be nice.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: NY
Hey Montana, did you use your planishing hammer in the building of those flares? If not I'm even more impressed with the job you did. You very hands on and creative, glad to see you have the necessary tools to do it right.
Toxic_d
Toxic_d
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From: Montana
toxic d
I don't have a planishing hammer. It would be nice though. Never actually even used one. That was the first time I used an English wheel and probably the last for a while too. Kinda funny. Thanks man.
Hey Montana, did you use your planishing hammer in the building of those flares
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From: Montana
My front section. I still have to paint the corners flat black like I did the center peice. Looks much better in person. Mean. Total cost was about $70 dollars and 20 or so hours. I used .125 and .250 ABS, a jigsaw, abs cement, and stainless fasteners from the inside so there is no exsposed attachments.
Here is my latest project. I've only made one so far just the left light cover. It was originally going to be a prototype/experiment but it turned out great, and I'm gonna use it. If all goes well I'll make my other one tonight. Only thing I have left to do is make some mounting brackets that will use the two upper nuts and lower nut on the radiator support. i'll just slot the brackets and use some washers and what not so the cover's sit right over the lights. The lights are hella's and not the ones I should've gotten but they'll work for now and look good.. I should've researched more before buying, but I fabbed sheetmetal boxes and then made cutouts on the radiator support and welded those in, so I can acommodate lot's of different lights if I wish. All in all they look great and are light. I used ABS, plexi and plastic glue. Worked good. Let me know what you think.
I'm gonna get some more pictures of the 3 link and bracing up soon. Thanks
I'm gonna get some more pictures of the 3 link and bracing up soon. Thanks
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From: Montana
headlight cover/bucket patterns
This is for Devin or anyone else on the no pop ups endeavor.
I've made a 1 inch scale on these that is exactly one inch, so you can print them off and get a good idea to start from. This is the pattern I made mine from. They are not perfect but there is enough extra on them so if you follow them you can trim the abs to fit how you want it. These are just an ideal starting point. One side is going to be taller. that is the inside side toward the center of the car, the shorter is the outer. I didn't even bother making a pattern of the bottom piece because that can be traced and cut out after you have the sides glued to your plexi or ideally lexan cover..
I traced my patters onto 1/8th inch abs and then cut them out. then with the plexi covers I made. I bent the side piece with a heatgun to go wrap around and give me the wall. Then to match the curve of the plexi I had to do a fair amount of grinding with a disc grinder with 40 grit so it would fit nice and tight for the glue. I glued the side wall to the bottom of the plexi and held it with masking tape until the glue dried. Then I traced a bottom out of abs using the partially completed cover and glued the bottom on and used tape to hold it.
The tabs are aluminum and the holes are drilled bigger for adjustment. The bottom of the bucket's edge hit the factory adjuster stop for the original popups, so you can "dial" in fitment.
to make the lenses once again, you cut a peice of 1/8th plexi so it is about an inch or so bigger alll the way around the factory light cover. This will give some weith for drooping in the oven, Much more extra will warp the plexi unevenly. Then stick it in the oven on 200-225 at most for 5 min or so . You really have to watch. Then take it out and let it AIR COOL. Trace your fatory cover onto the plexi and be very careful and cut it cout with a jig saw or scroll saw, band saw, etc. very carefully, or it will crack. I broke 3 my second try around.
Good luck, in your experimentations. Later -Rob
I've made a 1 inch scale on these that is exactly one inch, so you can print them off and get a good idea to start from. This is the pattern I made mine from. They are not perfect but there is enough extra on them so if you follow them you can trim the abs to fit how you want it. These are just an ideal starting point. One side is going to be taller. that is the inside side toward the center of the car, the shorter is the outer. I didn't even bother making a pattern of the bottom piece because that can be traced and cut out after you have the sides glued to your plexi or ideally lexan cover..
I traced my patters onto 1/8th inch abs and then cut them out. then with the plexi covers I made. I bent the side piece with a heatgun to go wrap around and give me the wall. Then to match the curve of the plexi I had to do a fair amount of grinding with a disc grinder with 40 grit so it would fit nice and tight for the glue. I glued the side wall to the bottom of the plexi and held it with masking tape until the glue dried. Then I traced a bottom out of abs using the partially completed cover and glued the bottom on and used tape to hold it.
The tabs are aluminum and the holes are drilled bigger for adjustment. The bottom of the bucket's edge hit the factory adjuster stop for the original popups, so you can "dial" in fitment.
to make the lenses once again, you cut a peice of 1/8th plexi so it is about an inch or so bigger alll the way around the factory light cover. This will give some weith for drooping in the oven, Much more extra will warp the plexi unevenly. Then stick it in the oven on 200-225 at most for 5 min or so . You really have to watch. Then take it out and let it AIR COOL. Trace your fatory cover onto the plexi and be very careful and cut it cout with a jig saw or scroll saw, band saw, etc. very carefully, or it will crack. I broke 3 my second try around.
Good luck, in your experimentations. Later -Rob
He's put up probably the best 78 posts this forum has ever seen. With exception of the 8 thingees it has under the hood, that is pound for pound the nicest looking modded SA I have ever seen.
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From: Montana
clutch cable set up
This picture is just how I did my clutch cable setup for any one who is curious. It's just a detail of my project and thought it was appropriate to post it for the couple members that were curious, you know who you are. Thanks
wow, you have inspired me. i have a question say i didn't want the plexi glass to have the same curve what would could i use for a mold that i could carve easy but put in a hoven and heat up. my plan is to use the same typ of light setup as you two round lights each side. i wans going to use expanding foam to make a mold to lay some carbon fiber or fiber glass to get the shape i want. i mite want plexi glass to have a different shape any ideas what i could use.