I'm currently 4 weeks into my "6 to 9 week waiting period" for my sterling carb. The wait is killing me but back to the topic; What has to be done to put a nikki onto a RB holley manifold? I'm hoping it's just redrill the bolt pattern but do the bores line up? Any other problems that I haven't thought of yet? As always, any help is appreciated.

 

make a plate to mate to the bottom of the sterling (use your manifold as a template) and then drill holes to match the holley bolt pattern and bolt it to a 1" open spacer.

 

The bores basically line up. You will want to cut channels which connect a primary port runner to a secondary port runner, much like a '79-'80 manifold. This brings the vacuum signal more inline with what a typical Nikki (includling Sterling) wants to see. Cut the channels in the spacer so you don't mess up the RB manifold.

 

You'll also need either a short air filter setup, or a hole in your hood. The Nikki with filter sits higher than a Holley does on the RB mani and will contact the hood if proper measures are not taken.

 

Sell Holley manifold.
Buy stock manifold.
Use rest of the money on gas.

Easiest way.

 

but even Sterling himself says that the stock manifold is the largest limiting factor with his superior flowing carburetor. The Sterling carb flows soo well that the stock mani actually hinders it quite a bit, and Sterling says plans are underway to sell/mod stock manifolds with a Sterling treatment to make the whole system work as well as some of the other carbs you can buy that flow really well, but also have manifolds that flow better. I think that RBmani, with the properly designed spacer, and a dome filter on top of the sterling that pops out of the hood, maybe even with some sort of functional scoop would (maybe look funny) but work VERY well. Especially on a streetport motor with a good free flowing exhaust.

 

Have you asked Sterling about this yet? He's toyed with the idea before, and has mentioned some of what would have to be done to make it all fit. Hit him up over at his forum and get his input.



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Well the "newer" 12a manifolds don't flow as much as the old school manifolds if he were to go that route.

If he really wanted to squeeze every pony out he could just make the new bolt pattern on the holley and use a spacer. But I would assume without the stock channels and just a open space that it would hinder it a bit.

Or just do the opposite of this:



Bottom mani is stock manifold stripped of everything, Top mani is stripped mani with stock flange removed and holley flange welded on.

 

Well, this carb and manifold isn't really going on a first gen. The hood of the car might not even fit the stock manifold and nikki. It currently has a dellorto and that doesn't have a whole lot of room above it. It sounds like I should port the '80 stock manifold and hope for the best. I haven't ever ported anything before so I was assuming that I'd be fairley incompetant on the first try that's why I was considering the holley intake.

 

Get a junkyard manifold to test out first. Work on each runner separately and take what you learn from each to the one you plan to use. This way if you screw up you won't need to worry about it and you'll learn more than enough to properly port the good mani.

 

And keep in mind that over-porting a manifold will lower velocity within the runners, which can have undesired effects.

 

Quick note on low profile air cleaners: I've been using a late 70's Ford Granada (yes, I know they're hard to find!) housing with K&N filter inside on my Edelbrock/RB manifold combo for some years now. I just took out the restrictive "hot-air" stuff out of the snorkle and ran a cold air hose to the front of the compartment. I also use it with a 2" spacer under the carb and barely touch the hood reinforcements! You'll have to adapt this 5 1/8" housing to the Niki though...

I found a super low-profile (about 1"!) filter adapter on early to late 90's Jeep Grand Cherokees. Also a 5 1/8" diameter design it comes with it's own large diameter hose that you can attach a K&N filter to. It might almost be TOO low profile for high preformance actually; most sources like alot more clearance between the top of the carb and the top of the air filter housing. I have NO idea how it would work on a rotory application. But hey; if it works on a 318 (360?) it would probably work on a 12A (maybe with a little spacer).

Not really a first gen? I have trouble thinking of a car with LESS hood clearance...!!

Sanspistons for super-duper airflow