Milky stuff
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Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Oregon City, Or
Milky stuff
So about 2 weeks ago i took all my smog stuff of.
I went to check my oil yesterday and i noticed there was milky stuff on the rubber part of the dip stick. I looked down in the hole and there was milky stuff all the way down. none in the oil though. There was also a lot under the oil cap and down the fill tube.
In most cases i know what the milky stuff means.. But i would told that it should be being caused by no smog is there any truth to this?
I am not using any water at all.
Thanks
I went to check my oil yesterday and i noticed there was milky stuff on the rubber part of the dip stick. I looked down in the hole and there was milky stuff all the way down. none in the oil though. There was also a lot under the oil cap and down the fill tube.
In most cases i know what the milky stuff means.. But i would told that it should be being caused by no smog is there any truth to this?
I am not using any water at all.
Thanks
It's lovingly referred to as "lung mustard" so if you search for that it'll bring up a number of topics and fixes as well it should be in the FAQ topic.
Basically it means your crank case is not properly being evacuated and sealed, moisture gets sucked back in typically at idle and mixes with the vapor in the crankcase causing a milky frothy yellow/white mixture that smells wonderful.
Basically it means your crank case is not properly being evacuated and sealed, moisture gets sucked back in typically at idle and mixes with the vapor in the crankcase causing a milky frothy yellow/white mixture that smells wonderful.
That's only part of it. Moisture is created during the combustion process. It's something like a gallon of fuel equals a gallon of water. A facts and figures person will know the actual amount. Anyway a lot of water is created and some of it will get into the crankcase area. It must be properly evactuated, not just vented.
The stock purge valve of an FB can be repurposed to act like a PCV valve and hooked in with the carb bowl vent plus the charcoal cansister and then run into one of the nipples on the Nikki or the carb spacer. Again, you need a facts and figures guy as I'm far more familier with old school 13B carbs... which run a PCV valve like the SA22C and old school 12As.
What you really should think about is an easy way to add an aftermarket PCV valve to your FB. The way the old school intake manifolds work is each primary intake manifold runner has a small hole leading to a drilled chamber in the intake manifold. The PCV valve is threaded into this chamber. You can mimic this setup with an aftermarket Fram PCV valve either part number FV333 or FV268 (going from memory). Find two nipples that each vents one of the primary runners. Y or T them together then into one end of the PCV valve (determine which direction it is supposed to flow with compressed air). The other end of the PCV valve routes straight over to the nipple on the oil filler tube, where you have all that wonderful milky condensation. Then route the other nipple (lower on the intermediate plate) up into the air cleaner housing so it gets fresh filtered air from one of the unused nipples.
I think if you use the FV268, its nipples are a more appropriate size for the 5/16" (8mm) nipples on the engine. If using the FV333, it has at least one large 3/8" nipple and a 1/8" NPT fitting which is a little large for pushing on a 5/16" hose. I'd go with the FV268.
The stock purge valve of an FB can be repurposed to act like a PCV valve and hooked in with the carb bowl vent plus the charcoal cansister and then run into one of the nipples on the Nikki or the carb spacer. Again, you need a facts and figures guy as I'm far more familier with old school 13B carbs... which run a PCV valve like the SA22C and old school 12As.
What you really should think about is an easy way to add an aftermarket PCV valve to your FB. The way the old school intake manifolds work is each primary intake manifold runner has a small hole leading to a drilled chamber in the intake manifold. The PCV valve is threaded into this chamber. You can mimic this setup with an aftermarket Fram PCV valve either part number FV333 or FV268 (going from memory). Find two nipples that each vents one of the primary runners. Y or T them together then into one end of the PCV valve (determine which direction it is supposed to flow with compressed air). The other end of the PCV valve routes straight over to the nipple on the oil filler tube, where you have all that wonderful milky condensation. Then route the other nipple (lower on the intermediate plate) up into the air cleaner housing so it gets fresh filtered air from one of the unused nipples.
I think if you use the FV268, its nipples are a more appropriate size for the 5/16" (8mm) nipples on the engine. If using the FV333, it has at least one large 3/8" nipple and a 1/8" NPT fitting which is a little large for pushing on a 5/16" hose. I'd go with the FV268.
