mikewoodkozar

Okay, so i have been slowly cleaning and maintaining the rx7 this year, i installed a Mikuni setup, but i have quite a few wires left over, can you tell me if i can remove them?

First pic is of the water pump housing, i believe this plugged into the nikki carb, can i remove this harness and put in a brass plug? Or can i just snip the wires?



Next pic is of several connectors, can i chase them back to the harness and remove them? I know that the alternator has to be hooked up and i have that one marked off, but the ones in my hand, can they be eliminated?



Then we have this funny silver barrel on the top of the engine, do i need it? Seriously, what is it?



And then i have two wires (yellowish colored) one plugs into a screw that is connected under the oil filter, then the other one with the same color wire goes to a connector, but where? Can they be removed?



And finally, i thought i would show y'all a pic of how it is starting to look, the engine bay represents hours upon hours of cleaning.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Looking good Mike.
the top one is the sensor for the choke system which you will not be using. You can either try and find a plug for that which I believe is 16X1.5mm(don't quote me on that). Or you can just leave it like it is.
On your picture with the 2 connectors the other one is for the oil pressure sender.
As far as the left over emission wires. I personally recommend tucking them out of the way near the master cylinder area.
The problem with delooming is if you need to go back to emissions then you either have to splice in to repair what you took apart or locate another engine harness portion.
I believe there is a thread in the archives about which wires to keep and which ones to depin and how to do the procedure.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

The server is too slow and Im unable to check what year you have.

2 things you can do @ back of water pump housing. Clip them wires OR connect an aftermarket water temp gauge.

For the rest, label the wire (water temp, oil pressure etc etc. Unplug the harness, unwrap it, then de-pin it from the harness. Some wires are soldered together so you will need to cut it/unsolder and use heat shrink to make it nice.

For 84-85, it should look like these:

84GSREX

First picture: if you snip it then your water temp wont work thats the sender..... for the second picture it's hard to tell, it would of been easier if you had marked everything before taking it off. Third pic: don't know what that is...sorry The last one: that's also a water temp sender you can use one or the other which ever one works. FYI a piece of masking tape and a marker are your best friend....i know it's fun to snip wires left and right but you have to be careful. Good luck.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

no its not.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Start doing your homework newbie.
The thermo sensor for the choke has nothing to do with the temp gauge at all.

What do you mean in the last picture you can use one or the other? There is only one connector for the water temp sending unit and it's the one he has hooked up.

mikewoodkozar

Thanks guys, i am truly gong for the "whoa" factor when i open the bonnet. I think she is about as clean as i can get her with out pulling the engine out, lol.

mikewoodkozar

oh snap, another question; i just have the oil cooler lines tightened down by hand, should i use teflon tape or teflon paste on the anodized ends that mate up to the block and the cooler? I just wonder because there is no seal in there, should there be? I got the whole kit from mazdatrix. I did install the crush washers between the block and the fittings, but am i missing something with braided lines?

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Nothing extra to seal the hoses just tighten.

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

wrong...wrong...wrong...and....ummm...let's see sarcastic and still wrong!!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You can keep the temp sensor wires in the 1st pic hooked up if you want a working choke. Don't be so quick to snip/plug. I have have a working choke on bith the Mikuni and DCDs on the widebody. Makes warmup that much easier, and automatic, by not having to hold the choke by hand during warmup.

You're getting advice from warm weather guys who rarely need a choke like you and I do.

If you're going through the trouble of de-wiring, you should at least be sitting down with the wiring diagram in hand and know what you're revmoing.

MosesX605

How did you get the a choke working on the DCD's, trochoid?

I'll most likely need one up here in the Great White North.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Gee, I don't know, it takes a choke cable and the temp sensor. lol Did find my accellerator cable was too loose and the secondarys weren't opening up fully.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

From the picture that wacky has posted of the 2 yellow connectors ... I actually just removed the 2 pins from the big one and stuck them on the smaller one. The pins go right in without any swapping needed. Also all my wires that were left going from the passeger side firewall area is all just coming from driver side anyways from behind the dash. Not sure how extreme you want to go, but in total for me I removed and shorted wires till I have about 3 grocery bags full of uneeded wires. You can find my thread to see what i've done. Its not fully completed yet, but getting there. The whole inside of my car's harness is all done up and back together and neatly done. Just wiring in the engine bay needing organizing and stuff.

MosesX605

I would have thought that the choke would spring back unless the entire bimetal spring assembly was retained...

If that's not the case, then that's cool.