Hey,

Well I did my timing on my engine a couple night ago and this is what happened:

Front Rotor (the one by the Rad):
Trailing and leading work fine, I've adjusted them to be basically dead on 0 degrees leadin and 20 degrees trailing,

The rear rotor:
Leading:
Sometime you can see it working and fires, but with an occasional misfire, but other times it just fire way off, (i have up to 60degrees on my timing light and nothing even show when i change it.

Trailing:
Same as leading results.

All the wires are making connections, the coils i think are working fine other wise the front rotor would fire erraticly also. the cap and rotor is showing a bit of wear on both plastics ... but still its an even wear for all 4 point. The car can still start up with a crank no choke and gas to push on it, compression on the back and front rotors are about the same for all surfaces, Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I may be wrong on this, but doesn't the timing light only work right on the number 1 wire.

 

bump

 

anyone

 

33 views still no reply .. anyone please? my engine shakes quite a bit right now

 

Check the plug wires. Go ahead and replace cap/rotor.

 

Alright so I ordered the cap and rotor, they won't be in till tuesday thouhg ... i'll let you know what happens then. Anything else I should look for?

 

alright so i got the cap and rotor and installed them, I also took out the plugs to clean them out since i was already there. As I fired her up it poped a few times ( I just asummed it was unburnt fuel from the rear rotor since it wasn't firing up properly) So then I decided to fire her up and take her around the block. POP POP POP ... keeps on poping all the time , almost like its back firing ... but i'm not seeing any flames

 

bump

 

Switch the plug wires between the rotors and see if the same thing happens. If the problem moves to the front, it's the plug wires. If it is still on the rear, it may be plugs.

 

Hey, I will try that out ... and will see.

 

If you have a repair manual their is a way to check if your coils are good with a voltmeter, also if you have a voltmeter, set it for ohms and place one of the prongs in one end of a plug wire and the other prong in the other end, this is measuring continuity you should get a reading between 800-900 ohms, all the plug wires should have at least similiar readings. otherwise replace them. get new plugs, and check your coils in the same manner. touch one voltmeter prong to one electrode, and the other prong to the other electrode (while coil is off car) tell me what reading you get Ill look it up in the manual.

If you dont have a voltmeter than I say go ahead and replace plug wires and plugs.... Also if you have the Vacuum advance on your distributor still, you may want to check the vacuum lines. other than that if you still have trouble it may be the coils....

 

ALright so i swapped cables ... didn't do too much driving difference but timming does see to appear now on the rear ... i think that i'll be changing the cables too. Noiw i've noticed something, the poping doesn't really start till the engine warms up then thats when it starts popping out of the exhaust ... today also i found a vacumm hose of some sort sitting under that car so i'm trying to figure out where that came from. Another thing too my fan kicks on even when the engine is cold? Shouldn't that only kick on after the engine has warmed up?