1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Merkur Rims

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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 09:51 PM
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Merkur Rims

I recently discovered those old Merkurs (Ford Sierra) have a 4X108 bolt pattern. This means They will fit FB's lol. Any how I am wondering if anyone has tried this? I do not know if the offsets will work. I think the offset is +38 on the Merkur, and that sounds a bit much. I do not want to go for the wheels sucked into the fenders look lol. The wheels also have no lip if I remeber correctly.

Thanks, Ted.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 10:00 PM
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on some 4x108's i had the center hub was too small to fit over the axel. easy enough of a fix, but i wasn't interested in keeping them.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 10:01 PM
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Umm our bolt pattern is 4x110 smart guy.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 10:03 PM
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some say 4 X 108 works, i am going to try this later on this week. my friend has a 91 mustang with 4 X 108 too
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by no_name
I recently discovered those old Merkurs (Ford Sierra) have a 4X108 bolt pattern. This means They will fit FB's lol.
No, it means that they won't fit. 1st-gens are 110mm, 108mm (actually 4 1/4") is not 110mm.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 10:12 PM
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I hear they fit. I will try, I can borrow these rims from work. And I know 4X110 is not 4X108.

However, there is tolerance in the wheel that may alow it to work. If it fits I will report back. And I know the offset I mentioned earlier is false. Merkur rims are not +38.

And drift FB has already tried on 4X108s
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 10:17 PM
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Dude if they fit will it only be those certian 4x108 wheels, or will other 4x108 wheels work too? I have never heard of this before.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:00 PM
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Using 4x108 rims can be a risky proposition, easy to snap lug bolts/studs. Our rims are also hub centric, if the Ford rims are not, I wouldn't risk it. Either way, the holes should be machined to 110 mm width, otherwise there can be too much stress on the bolts.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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They may be able to be bolted on, but there will be *very* high side loads on the lug bolts/studs. Bolts are supposed to be loaded only in tension, not shear or bending.

I would be very cautious if trying this, and check the torque on the lugs every 25 miles, and check the studs/bolts for cracking every 50 miles.

Just installing the wheels centered would be a bitch, it's difficult enough when the bolt pattern is *correct*, given how many people do it wrong.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:01 PM
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....
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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It has been done and it has been posted on here before. Last person said they hit the holes a little with a file so that the 108 would fit ok.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:10 PM
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Like said above, it wouldn't be hard to just oval out the holes by 1mm, which isn't a hell of a lot. A file is probably enough to do it. Just remember, you have to extend the taper out as well, otherwise the taper is going to center the lug nut again and give you the above stated problems. Also, you should definately make sure they are hub centeric when doing this.
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Old Jun 11, 2006 | 11:13 PM
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Simulpost

Just doing the math, if you torque 12mmx1.5 bolts to 80lb-ft, it's roughly 32,500 pounds of tension on the stud. (If my math is right, I'm trying to work out the equations while there are screaming babies and nattering parents present)

There are four per wheel. You can see that, with over 130,000 pounds of force clamping the wheel to the hub, hubcentric doesn't make one damned bit of difference, the lug tension is holding things firmly in place all by itself.

Now. Put that kind of force against an offset taper, like installing wheels with the bolt pattern 1mm off in radius. Now you have an idea of the kind of side loads I'm talking about, and why they scare the *crap* out of me.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:22 AM
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Whats the big deal? If the guy wants to try it.....let'em! Let us know how it works out. Remember guys this is like a brotherhood here. Dont be so quick to jump on a guy simply because he wants to see what works and what doesnt.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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Trial and Error my good fellow Rx7 onwers, Trial and Error.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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As mentioned, if you try it, make sure to snug the lugs nuts down in several stages until they are all equally finger tight, then tighten them down in steps of 10lb-ft until you get to the 80lb-ft spec, and recheck the torque *very* frequently, and check the lugs/studs for cracking or bending.

Wouldn't it be easier to just use the correct wheels?
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 03:11 AM
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They fit, but it puts a ot of stress on the lugs. People that have done it have broken lugs. It's pretty bad when you break your lugs drining down the freeway, or durring a sprited drive that all Rx owners partake in daily. You can get the rims and remove 2mm of material and they'll fit better. But then they might wobble. Just buy 1x110 rims or get an SE suspension...
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Latin270
Whats the big deal? If the guy wants to try it.....let'em! Let us know how it works out. Remember guys this is like a brotherhood here. Dont be so quick to jump on a guy simply because he wants to see what works and what doesnt.
Originally Posted by southernrunner
Trial and Error my good fellow Rx7 onwers, Trial and Error.
The thing is trial and error learning works, but if the error could result in death, why chance it...

It's like my job, working comms maintenance on the local mass transit system... I'm sometimes down on track...

I can either go grab a hot stick (High Voltage tester with LONG heavily insulated probes.) and test the 3rd rail (750 VDC @ 6kAmps.) or I just go up and touch it to see if it's live... If I'm quick enough, I'll only get 3rd degree burns on most of my body and be able to be recussitated from the cardiac arrest.

I can either radio down to central control to see when the next train is coming through, or I can hop off my platform and look down the track... If I'm quick enough to duck, I'll only suffer a few broken bones...

The point is that there are proper ways to do **** and improper ways... The price is being cheap or sacrificing style... Either using 2nd hand wheels, getting stock wheels, or getting the proper wheels.

The 2nd hand wheels run the risk of getting hurt, killed, or causing the same to others. Stock wheels or the proper wheels, not so much.

Not only that, what do you think your insurance comapny will say after that wheel flys off while you're going down the highway and you cause a pileup? What will they say when they investigate and find that they're off the wrong car or that they've been ovaled out?

Think about these kinds of things.

I could go get jackstands, but I'm strapped for cash this month... I can either use a jack on it's own or I can drive the car 's wheels up on the curb.

**** happens, cover your ***.

We're looking out for you man. We don't wanna see a post tomorrow that says, "I wrecked, car totalled. Studs snapped off... I'm typing this with a pen between my charred lips."

Last edited by Pele; Jun 12, 2006 at 10:36 AM.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:34 AM
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Thanks for the concern. I would have no probelm with second hand wheels but I am cheap lol. I just want some light 15in wheels, and am on a university student budget in Canada.

It is true great deals come up all the time, but shipping is a complete killer.

I will be carful and see if this works. But I would like to highlight how carful I will be. I am also pritty sure, the offsets are all wrong, but you never know.

Thanks for the concern.
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Old Jun 12, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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I want to say that H4INF said somethign about different lugs or something to the sort. Possibly, different lug nuts.
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