Thats it i have had it with replacing my master and slave cylinder, im going to build a cable type mechanical clutch that will use the plunger from the stock clutch pedal.

the idea is simple the plunger will push a plate attached and a lever attached to that will pull the cable attached to the tranny for mounted at the back of the tranny. all i have to do is work out how to keep the cable ridged and make the adjustment to work the fork correctly.

Any input before i start?

 

Why a plunger? Why not route the cable to the end of the pedal so that when you push down it pulls on the cable like you want it then do an adjustment either at the pedal or preferably near the slave portion so its easier to get at.

I would assume Bicycle cable and sheathing would be best for this project.

 

Save yourself some time, go to the local scrapyard and get the entire cable clutch assy from an early 80s subaru. I have a few sitting around and have contemplated the same thing.

 

Do you really think that a mechanical cable will be less prone to wear and tear than a hydraulic system? There is a reason virtually all cars (and air planes and trains and everything else that moves, including subarus) use hydraulics for the clutch and brake - the system offers both mechanical and maintenance advantages over cables, which pretty much went out of business during WWII.

I've been driving GSLs for the last ten years, hundreds of thousands of miles, and I've replaced exactly one clutch slave and one clutch master cylinder in all that time, and those were probably the original 25 year old units that came with that car.

I would look to either faulty parts or improper maintenance as the cause of having to redo the clutch repair.

 

Yeah, I'm with Ray. I've never has problems with the clutch master or slave cylinder. Are you running some kind of super stiff clutch that's ruining them? What's the issue?

 

yup the stage 3 kiwi clutch set hense the idea of the change i have gone through 2 sets of cylinders in one race clutch thats bad.

 

You will need to do a bit of adjusting to get the ratios correct. The stock clutch gives quite a bit of mechanical advantage, a cable clutch will probably be a lot closer to 1:1.

 

never had a problem with my hydraulic clutch... its so easy to push that some buddies when first driving my car dont think its working.. haha really nice in stop and go traffic

 

You would be better off upgrading the master and slave than going with a cable system. I know the TII system is stouter than the NA FC one. How much/what mods are involved is another question.

 

I agree with Trochoid. Just beef up the hydraulics.

FWIW: Older body Mustangs had a mec clutch. Personally I hated them. But to each his own.

What ever you choose - post some pics and do a writeup!

 

I'm going to change the ratios of my pedal to get longer travel and more mech advantage. Keeping the hydro system for this.

 

Are you really that bored Nick?

 

whats involved in the t2 hydros swap

 

I foresee 2 possible problems. Bolt patterns don't line up and the TII master may be too wide to fit. If so, re-drilling/notching the bolt holes in the firewall will take care of either. The TII also take a different push rod for the slave, iirc. Not sure about the bolt pattern on the tranny. I can check that the next time I get to my storage bin.

 

hmm well i do have to machine shop to modify it but im still not sure the push rod would be able to just swap out i might have to make a new one

 

I just read through the specs in the 85 and 87 FSMs. The masters and slaves have the some bore across all the models, FB-12A/13B, FC-NA/TII. Sorry for getting everyone's hopes up. The brake master and booster is larger on the FCs. I did swap those into the widebody after the big brake upgrade.

 

i swapped a ford pickup from hydraulic to cable - but that's because the parts store couldn't get me what i needed for a few days. i traded that truck for a vw bug, then sold the bug, and got my rx7. hmm.

i prefer the feel of mechanical clutches, i had a scout II and the clutch setup was pretty much just a metal bar that went from the pedal assembly, straight down to the T/O bearing arm. Best feeling clutch ever.