measuring and adjusting camber, caster & toe-in
#26
I read your email
Thread Starter
Originally posted by jeremy
the point were the strut bolts on is offset towards ONE screw. i think everyone would want the extra camber so that screw goes on the inside.
the point were the strut bolts on is offset towards ONE screw. i think everyone would want the extra camber so that screw goes on the inside.
HOMEWORK ASSIGNMENT EVERYONE: Okay rotorheads, go out and look at the little arrow on top rim of your stock struts and report back here on which way they point! Go! Do it now! please..... Maybe we can get some sort of consensus.
Thanks!
Mine was set to:
right side: front/inner
left side: rear/inner
#28
I read your email
Thread Starter
From this page:
http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
If the top of the strut is leaning toward the rear of the car, then the caster is positive, if it's leaning toward the front, it is negative.
http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm
If the top of the strut is leaning toward the rear of the car, then the caster is positive, if it's leaning toward the front, it is negative.
#30
Are you Nucking Futs?
Join Date: May 2001
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Originally posted by inittab
I have yet to find any specs. If you have or find the specs, please PM me or post them here. Thanks!
I have yet to find any specs. If you have or find the specs, please PM me or post them here. Thanks!
as per the 80 FSM....
Caster....RH side....4 degrees 30' (+/- 30')
LH side....4 degrees 0' (+/- 30')
max difference in caster between sides...+/- 40'
Camber....1 deg. 10' (+/- 30')
max diff..........+/- 30'
toe in 0~0.24in
#31
Right near Malloy
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Ha ha! Suckers!
Work at a tire shop or have a friend at one. That's the best place to get your alignment done at.
After hours, a lotta guys do side work. Either then or during a non busy period, I have free range on the alignment rack. Drive on, jack up, clamp the sensors on the wheels, and set the computer. Follow the hand guided instrustions and I have specs, what my car currently reads, what to do to adjust it (Fully illustrated!)
Alignment racks are fun, although there are several cars I hate aligning. Anything made by Mopar with cab foreward design, IE: Chrysler M300, Dodge Intrepid, etc. are a bitch and a half.
After hours, a lotta guys do side work. Either then or during a non busy period, I have free range on the alignment rack. Drive on, jack up, clamp the sensors on the wheels, and set the computer. Follow the hand guided instrustions and I have specs, what my car currently reads, what to do to adjust it (Fully illustrated!)
Alignment racks are fun, although there are several cars I hate aligning. Anything made by Mopar with cab foreward design, IE: Chrysler M300, Dodge Intrepid, etc. are a bitch and a half.
#32
Old [Sch|F]ool
OH GOD.... WHY in the world did Chrysler do that? The 1st-gen models have about 4 different things making them a pain to adjust (inaccessible, rust up easily, dual locknut adjuster, coarse threads so it's VERY touchy) and the 2nd-gen models, while tons more nicerful to adjust, they love to rust up and break the adjuster as soon as you touch it.
I had free rein over the alignment racks... It ruled. I'd put my car up there and quantify the relationship between ride height and camber on my cars, try different settings, etc.
I had free rein over the alignment racks... It ruled. I'd put my car up there and quantify the relationship between ride height and camber on my cars, try different settings, etc.
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