Making REAL cold air intake from aluminum pipe
01-21-05, 12:08 PM
#53
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Originally Posted by run_rabbit_run
if you are going to spend the money on piping...make a snorkel instead...it would be more functional ...you could ford streams and whatnot.
Back to the topic: Let us know how the CAI works out.
01-21-05, 12:29 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by lovintha7
Water disentegrates carbon when it comes in contact.
Methinks Gregs confused water with something else.
When water enters the core of your engine, be it through the intake or a vac line (the water trick,) it instantly turns to steam. This hampers the engine, but it also lifts some of the carbon deposits from the surfaces inside the engine. Steam cleaning, literally.
Manntis - you're not going to have 'carbon swirling around suspended in water.' These aren't washing machines we're driving.
Kevin Landers (RotaryResurrection) is big fan of this, as am I and quite a few others.
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
Now, about this maintenance debate. I am personally a fan of water injection. Not the type turbo guys run to keep intake temps down, but the type you do in your driveway as a maintenance procedure. Find a vacuum line or lines (teed together) that feed both the front and rear rotors, grab the throttle and rev the engine up to 4k or so, and dip the hose in a jug of water and let it drink. The water gets pulled in, hits the rotors and turns to steam, and takes carbon (slowly) with it.
If you're starting with an original/old used engine, Id do this 3-4 times weekly for about a month to clean as much as you can out. I'd also do 2-3 gallons per treatment. From then on, once per month. IF Im maintaining a rebuilt engine, I do this once per month or once per thousand miles to keep everything clean inside.
I have torn down engines where I had previously done this treatment, and they are always very clean, if not carbon-less altogether. The water treatment, along with straight premix, would result most likely in a rotary engine that lasted over 200k miles as the rule, rather than the exception.
If you're starting with an original/old used engine, Id do this 3-4 times weekly for about a month to clean as much as you can out. I'd also do 2-3 gallons per treatment. From then on, once per month. IF Im maintaining a rebuilt engine, I do this once per month or once per thousand miles to keep everything clean inside.
I have torn down engines where I had previously done this treatment, and they are always very clean, if not carbon-less altogether. The water treatment, along with straight premix, would result most likely in a rotary engine that lasted over 200k miles as the rule, rather than the exception.
01-22-05, 10:16 PM
#55
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Looks like the water injection link above isn't quite right. Here's a working one. 
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...injection.html
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...injection.html
01-25-06, 02:07 PM
#57
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Aaaaah! Well, what happened? you've left me hanging!
I am trying to research running a cai on my 12A (which isn't in a mazda, sorry). I found that you can buy 16 ga aluminum tube and mandrel-bent elbows on evil-bay, and K&N filters by dimension off their site.
So... did you give up, or was it successful?
Thanks
I am trying to research running a cai on my 12A (which isn't in a mazda, sorry). I found that you can buy 16 ga aluminum tube and mandrel-bent elbows on evil-bay, and K&N filters by dimension off their site.
So... did you give up, or was it successful?
Thanks
01-25-06, 03:19 PM
#58
you know you want this
Originally Posted by LongDuck
/rant on
If you live in Alaska, it's probably not going to make a difference, but if your car is turbocharged/intercooled, or if you live where it gets REALLY hot - that little bit of difference means something.
.
If you live in Alaska, it's probably not going to make a difference, but if your car is turbocharged/intercooled, or if you live where it gets REALLY hot - that little bit of difference means something.
.
i live in Alaska, and i run a CAI. it does make a differance. mainly noticed at the track. but then again, thats a little different than a street car where that .02 seconds doesnt really matter.
05-15-09, 04:26 PM
#59
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I fabbed an adapter from the afm for a cone filter ($20from spectre and flows as much as K&N) , and have also had a 3", 6.5' snorkel in there (13B powered Suzuki Samurai). About the same either way. A point-and-shoot temp gauge showed a 1.7 degree temp difference in air temp just before the manifold on a 80 degree day. and all 6.5' of the snorkel went away from the engine bay. A cai needs an intercooler to be considerably affective.
Just my .02
Just my .02
05-15-09, 05:46 PM
#60
Exactly what would an intercooler (which is based on transferring intake heat to ambient air via a heat exchanger) do to lower the temperature of ambient air being drawn directly into the intake?
How can it make ambient air colder than ambient air, using ambient air as a coolant?
Also, a point-and-shoot temperature guage will measure the temperature of the surface it's pointed at, not the air moving between you and the surface.
You need to use a free-air probe to get air temps.
Not looking to criticize, but them are the facts.
How can it make ambient air colder than ambient air, using ambient air as a coolant?
Also, a point-and-shoot temperature guage will measure the temperature of the surface it's pointed at, not the air moving between you and the surface.
You need to use a free-air probe to get air temps.
Not looking to criticize, but them are the facts.
05-15-09, 06:27 PM
#61
Absolute Power is Awesome
Wow, old thread!
+1, good points.
Exactly what would an intercooler (which is based on transferring intake heat to ambient air via a heat exchanger) do to lower the temperature of ambient air being drawn directly into the intake?
How can it make ambient air colder than ambient air, using ambient air as a coolant?
Also, a point-and-shoot temperature guage will measure the temperature of the surface it's pointed at, not the air moving between you and the surface.
You need to use a free-air probe to get air temps.
Not looking to criticize, but them are the facts.
How can it make ambient air colder than ambient air, using ambient air as a coolant?
Also, a point-and-shoot temperature guage will measure the temperature of the surface it's pointed at, not the air moving between you and the surface.
You need to use a free-air probe to get air temps.
Not looking to criticize, but them are the facts.
05-15-09, 09:25 PM
#62
I've got an electric thermoprobe laying around here; next nice hot day I have free, I'll run an intake air test with and without my ghetto CAI ( https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/my-low-rent-ghetto-cai-836771/ ), and post the results.
Been meaning to anyway, just for grins.
Been meaning to anyway, just for grins.
05-16-09, 02:31 AM
#65
i'm a poser
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i think u could turn the airpump into a s/c a lot easier than using the ac for that feature...
but if i do remember correctly, ford tried to apply that to their lightning?
but if i do remember correctly, ford tried to apply that to their lightning?
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