I bought a rb main pulley dual belt that is reduced, but with that pulley my alt will not keep enough charge at low rpms. igot a orignal pulley but now i cant get the rb one off. whats the best way to remove it on a freeed up motor, adn with out useing air tools, i cant get a impact on it and i dont have a air ratchet. i would rather break it lose with out having to remove the radiator. any ideas tha twill not tear anything up. I have tried by putting a ratchet on the alt and then losen the main pulley but the belts slip. need some help thanks
i plan on trying tommorow on it. thanks robert

 

It should only be held on with 4 small bolts. It is easier to remove if you remove the fan clutch first. then put your 19mm socket on the front eccentric bolt to hold it and then they come right off.

 

right now there is a rb dual pulley its only got the main 19 mm bolt on it. pretty sure atleast. there is no way to just hold it and turn it off NOT that EASY, the fan is off just dont want to take out the radiator to get a impact on it thats a pain in the ***. trust me the thing is on there. Is it ok to put the car ingear and hold the brakes and the put a socket/ratchet with a pipe on it to break it loose????

 

Unless the RB pulley mounts differently than the stock one, you should not need to touch the e-shaft bolt. If you do loosen it, the clutch pedal MUST be pushed in and kept pushed to the floor,otherwise the torrington bearings will drop. If that happens, then you will need to pull the front cover to replace them and check for end play. The engine should be out to do that.

My bet is the pulley has corroded to the e-shaft pulley mount and needs a little persuasion to loosen it.

 

1/2 breaker bar wedge into the frame, then crank the engine. that will get it a stubborn 19mm bolt loose.

 

I looked up the underdrive pulley in the RB catalogue and apparently it is held on by the e-shaft bolt and not the usual 4 bolts that the oem pulleys are held on by. How odd and a pita. Wackyracer has you covered on the bolt removal. Do make sure sure the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor the entire time the bolt is loose. You can wedge a 2X4 between the pedal and seat to keep the clutch down. I hope you clutch hydraulics are good.

 

so what you all are saying is push and hold the clutch in to take forward pressure off the bearings, then wedge a ratchet with a socket on the pulley to the frame or ground and turn the motor over (im figuring with the spark plugs out to keep it from actually cranking). now i have the other pulley ready to just pop on there so is there anything that could go wrong??

Trochoid the thing your talking about with the hydraulics is there any way to check and see if the bearings screwed up before i pop the other one on. thanks robert

 

I would test the hydraulics before removing the e-shaft bolt to make sure it doesn't bleed off. Simplest way to to do this is push the clutch in, install the 2X4, come back a couple of hours later and see if the clutch fork is still pushed in. You shouldn't need that much time to change out the pulley.

As far as checking the torrington bearings, you have to remove the front cover to check both of them. Pushing the clutch in takes up the slack in the endplay and holds the bearings in place so they can't slide down while the bolt is out.

To break the bolt loose, disable spark and fuel and bump the starter to break it's 90 lb/ft of torque. Don't crank on the starter, just small bumps with the key until you can wrench it the rest of the way off. Use red Locktite for re-install. Check the front oil seal for damage too.

To torque it back down, put the tranny in gear and set the parking brake. You may need someone to hold the brake pedal. Don't release the clutch until the bolt is snug. If you have trouble with the woodruff key moving, clean it and the slot with brake cleaner and superglue the key in the slot.

 

Prior to removing the main pulley, be sure that the key is in the 12 oclock position. It just makes it easier.

 

so its pretty risky removing this then, not that easy huh. Im not sure if i want to remove it now. Might leave it till i get some help with it, just doesnt sound like a unexpeirenced one person job.

 

I cant believe removing it is more of a pain then installing it.

Like they say its easy to destroy, harder to rebuild.

How did you get it on there in the first place?

 

its not hard except you need lots of beer j/k. I recommended removing the pulley with key at 12oclock due to the following reasons:

1) While slowing removing the pulley, you can apply pressure on the key so it will stay.

2) In case that the key comes out with the pulley (which is very common), you can easily slide it back in.

 

the rb pulley was put on when the motor was rebuilt. but with it and the underdrive alt pulley the alt will not charge good and the water temps are higher then normal.

I wish i would have left the old one on. it just does nt seem right to brace against the ground and pump the starter sounds like it could cause problems, and not quite sure what your all talking about as far as the bearings and oring seal????? when im not one hundred percent clear on somthing its a little nerve racking. so somebody has done this right?? i really need the old one on there

 

If you have a copy of the FSM or Haynes, look in the enginge rebuild section where it shows the exploded diagrams of the parts that sit in front of the front iron, behind the front cover. You will find the torrington bearings there.

The seal I mentioned is the oil seal that sits in the front cover benind the e-shaft pulley boss. It should still be good but it won't hurt to check it.

Nice pointer on the 12 o'clock for the keyway Wacky.