Made custom "Autometer C2" inspired gauges for stock cluster :D
#26
lol wut
Thread Starter
RX-7 Chris: yeah, just take the face off and scan.
To be honest, I don't know about the '83.
All you have to do for the '85 is wiggle the needle off and take off the two screws holding the face in. Best part is, there isn't any reason to completely remove the speedometer from the case. I don't see why you would lose calibration. Just mark where the needles resting spot was.
I've loaded the PDF and JPG files onto my foxed.ca account for everyone to use.
http://foxed.ca/eric/gauges
As for the font, I just use "WhatTheFont." Most of the time it can find the exact font, but it only found one similar to the ES series. Looks to be "ITC Blair Bold."
To be honest, I don't know about the '83.
All you have to do for the '85 is wiggle the needle off and take off the two screws holding the face in. Best part is, there isn't any reason to completely remove the speedometer from the case. I don't see why you would lose calibration. Just mark where the needles resting spot was.
I've loaded the PDF and JPG files onto my foxed.ca account for everyone to use.
http://foxed.ca/eric/gauges
As for the font, I just use "WhatTheFont." Most of the time it can find the exact font, but it only found one similar to the ES series. Looks to be "ITC Blair Bold."
#30
lol wut
Thread Starter
Oh sweet. Yeah, I'm up for it.
What you need to do is take the gauge faces off from the cluster and scan those in 300DPI mode. Save them as a super-high quality JPG. Don't attach them here because it will probably be too big. Upload a zip file with every set of gauge faces and PM me a link to the zip.
What you need to do is take the gauge faces off from the cluster and scan those in 300DPI mode. Save them as a super-high quality JPG. Don't attach them here because it will probably be too big. Upload a zip file with every set of gauge faces and PM me a link to the zip.
#31
lol wut
Thread Starter
Alright, d-day has come and gone with no results. The printer my dad used doesn't like vinyl or Avery stock.
Moral of the story: only use regular paper in a laser printer. It *will* rub off.
Time for plan B.
Moral of the story: only use regular paper in a laser printer. It *will* rub off.
Time for plan B.
#32
lol wut
Thread Starter
You know, I honestly don't think I could be any happier right now. They are low quality (you can see the inkjet overlap), and my exacto knife sucks so around the odometer cut-out, it's got paper jaggies, but for a first try, they look incredible.
Since it doesn't take light distribution into affect, it has "hot spots," of course, but it looks a hell of a lot better than the stock gauges.
I may be biased since I made it, so the picture can speak for it's self.
Since it doesn't take light distribution into affect, it has "hot spots," of course, but it looks a hell of a lot better than the stock gauges.
I may be biased since I made it, so the picture can speak for it's self.
#35
lol wut
Thread Starter
Thanks guys.
Jeezus, just scan it with the defaults and I should be able to work with that. It doesn't have to be exactly 300dpi, it's just that if the DPI is higher, it prints more crisp. The beauty of using vectors in Photoshop is that they stay crisp no matter the DPI. The reason for the higher DPI is so I can perfectly align the marks. Just make one scan and I'll see if that works.
Jeezus, just scan it with the defaults and I should be able to work with that. It doesn't have to be exactly 300dpi, it's just that if the DPI is higher, it prints more crisp. The beauty of using vectors in Photoshop is that they stay crisp no matter the DPI. The reason for the higher DPI is so I can perfectly align the marks. Just make one scan and I'll see if that works.
#39
The Shadetree Project
iTrader: (40)
lol I just realized on the drive home that the trip meter reset stops the speedo at 140 Mph. lame maybe I can cut it off. I've never pulled mine out but I've heard you can scrape the origional paint off of the guages and cut vinal into the pattern you want the faces then apply the vinal and it will shine through just like the stock gauges. Are the stock gauges just back lit, front lit, or both??? I think that should work if they are backlit.
#40
lol wut
Thread Starter
You can either take the whole tripometer assembly off or you can remove the reset button (without cutting it) and just cover the squares with the new faces.
They are back lit on the 84-85. Not sure about the '83 and below. Scraping the old paint off is an option, but that is a last resort thing since you can't put it back to OE. I'm a stickler about that kind of stuff.
They are back lit on the 84-85. Not sure about the '83 and below. Scraping the old paint off is an option, but that is a last resort thing since you can't put it back to OE. I'm a stickler about that kind of stuff.
#47
Rotary Freak
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As far as I remember from the last I pulled it all apart. There are 2 lights that are mounted in front of the whole instrument cluster along the top. There may also be a back lighting I can't remember.
#48
FNZOOM
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They are also backlit by 4 lights , they can be removed and the cluster still works.
I also like the black face guages by esmith, I just like the 84-85 cluster more though.
#50
lol wut
Thread Starter
Yeah I'll be more than happy to make the gauges but for me to be able to design them, I have to have scans of the gauge faces so I can align the marks to make a perfect match.
John, the scan thing applies to your situation as well. Eh, it's mediocre at night since I didn't scrape the old paint off. I just replaced the gauge faces with the photo paper, so it doesn't have anything to get rid of the hot spots. It's still really nice though and it should look better now that I have the red LEDs in place.
John, the scan thing applies to your situation as well. Eh, it's mediocre at night since I didn't scrape the old paint off. I just replaced the gauge faces with the photo paper, so it doesn't have anything to get rid of the hot spots. It's still really nice though and it should look better now that I have the red LEDs in place.