I have this problem with my low oil light in the car. The oil light has a tendency to come on after starting the car for about 2 minutes, then a few seconds later start dinging. On the way back from atlanta the other day, and all through South Carolina... dingdingdingdingdingding. I pulled over and check my oil level, and its fine, maybe a little overfilled. This mainly happens when I driver her hard through a few gears (Then stays on, even after I chill on it) or just cruise on the highway.

Is my sensor grounding out? I wanted to try to fix this problem before I just snip the wires in fustration. I cleaned the sensor and reinstalled it, and no grime around it.

 

El Bumpo. Someone explain to me why rotaries need heavyweight oil, as in 10w-40/50 etc. I noticed someones oil pressure gauge getting as high as 70psi. My gauge was semi-broken when I received it (haven't sent it back) and it "starts" at 17psi. If the gauge thinks 17psi is 0, well, my gauge does not go higher than 75psi.

75 - 17 = 58psi. And this is at redline. Could the thinner oil be the culprit here? I am running 10w-30 and have been called crazy

 

Also, I was riding in the car today for no reason (who doesn't do that?), all city. No buzzer or light or anything. Apparently this only happens at Highway RPMs, about 4k steady. I occasionally hit highway speeds (cough cough) on major roadways in the city, but nothing prolonged. I am thinking that the constant 4k rpm is causing my light to go off from the lower viscosity of the oil.

 

The buzzer does not know viscosity. :-)

Thicker oils are recommended in warmer climates. I have used 10W30 and 20w50 both in the summer and did not notice anything different. The 10w30 is more of a energy saving oil.

It's just a matter of resistance to flow at specific temps.
If you are in a hot climate then it would be recommended that you use the 20w50 for better lubrication purposes.

Your oil pressure listed is well within range. Most of the time the stock sender units don't work worth a crap anyways.

Did you check for any obstructions in the oil holes of the sensor or test the float for the sensor?

 

Honestly, I do not know where the sender is directly, but I have a feeling it is the one from the oilpan

I have cleaned ALL connections to the wiring harness, with carburetor cleaner, windex, and paper towels until they are sparkling clean! So no connection issues are a problem, just malfunctioning sensors or a grounding wire I guess...

 

yup, it's the one attached to the oil pan with three bolts, i'd check all connections to there and also to make sure oil is returning to the pan at high rpm...

 

I do not know of any sensor placements for the oil, nor the floats for the sensor. That is new! I did not know the sensor had a float in it. I am running an Autometer Sport Comp 2 Oil Pressure Gauge. My stock Oil Pressure Gauge does not work since I have a 79 engine in an 82 car

 

Also, I am running the gauge through the racingbeat Type one oil block thing.

 

If all the connections are clean, then it's time to pull the sensor and clean it. Check the oil pan for debris too.

 

I thought the oil pressure sender was mounted near the filter/beehive(if you have one) location. the mushroom shaped dealy

 

Sa engines did not have a provision for a oil sending unit.