tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

So I recently found out that my RX will have to stay in storage for longer than I anticipated and would have wanted....

I keep it in an underground garage and put it away sometime mid-October. All I really did was put some fuel stabilizer in it and remove the battery. Oil was pretty fresh, and coolant is only a year or so old.

I wont be able to get it out of storage until min-June now

I am contemplating pulling the plugs and gettin a few drops of engine oil into the housings and turning the engine over by hand.

Just want to make sure I have done everything possible to ensure she cranks right up in the Summer.

Advice appreciated!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i just resurrected an MGB that had been sitting since 2008 (or longer), and aside from the battery being dead, it only needed the fuel pump points cleaned, and its a runner.

so really you don't need to do anything.

however if you want to do stuff, here are some things, in order from sane to crazy.

1. over inflate the tires. tires don't like to sit, they will flat spot if its parked too long. ~40psi is usually ok.
2. clean all the junk out of the interior, rodents like junk.
3. wash the outside of the car. dust is ok, but bird poop is acidic and it will eat the paint, if left there.
4. put a bag over the intake/exhaust. moisture in the engine is bad, alternatively, a little oil in the plug holes does the same thing.
5. put it on blocks. you still want it resting on the suspension, but not on the tires.
6. drain the coolant. water rusts...
7. drain the gas. it doesn't rust, but it'll turn back into whatever dinosaur it started as
8. put the car in a bag, and suck all the air out. (seriously, they sell em).
9. shoot it into space. can't rust in space!

when you go to dig it up in the spring, you do want to look it over, for any rat damage, and things like belts go all rubber bandy when its parked. you wanna check to make sure you have all the fluids, and then maybe disable the ignition and crank until you have oil pressure.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

to J9's great suggestions, my caveats:
3) ....also COVER the car. Indoors even an old bed sheet is better than nothing. dust means anything brushing against, or laid on = scratches.
4) bagging intake and exhaust OR oil... oil is good to add as suggested, but NOT bagging exhaust end means moisture can get into exhaust, so oil in block no help. Bag exhaust. 2 ziplock bags & zips ties and your done.
5) I always leave coolant IN motor (7 mo in Alaska winters every yr). Good coolant won't contribute to rust. It prevents otherwise air-exposed irons internals from actually starting to rust, since coolant has inhibitors.
7) OR: fill tank absolutely FULL to eliminate air spaces. THATs where rust can otherwise start. Good gas preservatives such as Seafoam or Sta-bil work great keeping gas good.

and-
-depending on how dry your particular Climate is (& I recall Ontario = wet)
10) if on concrete, park over a sheet of plastic. Concrete weeps moisture. Forever. and that can rust the undercarriage longterm (June? prob not)
11) to avoid moisture build up in the car's interior (=mold) either
a) keep a window slightly cracked to allow air flow or
b) better: get some desiccant pouches (Griots Garage sells big, car sized reusable ones)
12) odors- open box of baking soda and let it sit on the floor. Works in the fridge -and cars
13) rodents HATE Irish Spring Soap! (google it.) cut up a couple of bars and lay the pieces around the interior. smells nice too.

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

tommyeflight89

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the replies guys. A good reference for the future also!

I am going to the storage spot tomorrow and will check it out.

I don't have it covered but the plastic sheet is a good idea.

Car was nice and clean when I put it away, dust won't hurt. I also plan on getting her new wheels and tires before getting her out of storage. So flat spots won't be a big deal!