and not the good kind either.

okay, so after the meet this saturday i got the itch to drive my car, so i start at it trying to figure out why it wont start. and now im ***** deep with no rubber.

first of the battery was just dead, so i swapped in the one from my escort real quick to see if i could get it to fire, it didnt. i look in the engine bay to see if anything is out of the ordinary, and sure enough, its pooring oil out from under the beehive.

yippee i thought, now i have an excuse to install that FMOC and oil temp/pressure gauges i bought eons ago. so i drive out to my dads to pick up all my spare parts last night, and i got out of work early today, so i tore into it.

i got the beehive off, and drained all the oil only to find out the oil pedistal i have wont work with pedistal for the beehive, so i cant run my gauges, or i cant run an oil cooler, period. i have a dilemma.

the only possible thing i think that can work, is if i drill the stock pedistal so mine can bolt on with the distribution block so i can have everything, but im not sure if that will clear my slave cylinder and all that other bullshit.

so i guess im to the point were you all tell me im an idiot and i missed something painfully obvious, or you tell me the only way to make it work is with some really expensive custom part.

the way i see it is worst case scenario, im running both oil coolers with only factory gauges.

 

ya your boned, you need the adapter that i think is the same for an FC, its holes are much closer, but i cant remember if the Fmocs on FBs is that of the FC variaty also. i am sure someone can sell you one, there like the only part on the engine that doesnt ever break or ware out

 

why aren't you using the oil pedistal under the glass in the first pic with your adapter?

 

i can, but how am i supposed to attach the oil line for my FMOC?

 

You use the oil pedestal from a FMOC car.

It looks like you got the pedestal from RacingBeat, they should have supplied you with 2 bolts and 4 o rings. MAKE SURE the o-rings are on there good before you tighten them down, I recommend lubing them with oil. Install that, then the filter pedestal on top.

You have a water line now that comes from your firewall, that goes into your block where the T is at. You can either cap off the end that went to the beehive, or cut it off just before the side exit and clamp on the heater hose there.

Next, the FMOC (with lines) bolt up from the front and rear irons, IIRC.

You lose the beehive.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/cooling-oil-how-install-fc-oil-cooler-1st-gen-write-up-pics-478521/

Edit: I think you will need a new or used oil line to the rear iron from a FMOC car.

 

The FMOC will run off of the lines that connect to the front cover and to the rear plate as shown in this picture on racing beats website. http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11908 You may need to get some different hoses and yes the racing beat ones are expensive. Run the pedestal under the glass in the first pic with your sandwich adapter and you should be good to go.

 

ive got the factory plastic braided lines that come with it.

so your telling me i can use attach the line to the rear iron??

thats the painfully obvious thing i was talking about...


for the record i will admit my newbness

 

Glad to see you're spending some time getting that badboy roadworthy again Cody. Make sure you take your time when mounting the cooler, and do it right the first time. Otherwise it can lead to a world of hurt later on down the road.


.

 

IIRC, '83 was the only year with the bee hive. If you have access to any parts cars 81, 82, 84, or 85, you can use the coolant line from that. I replaced mine with one from an 84 and it didn't have the "t" to route coolant to the bee hive. One less failure point, and not so much of an incomplete look. I hate seeing hoses with bolts jammed into them.

 

i think im just gonna string it up with zip ties

 

All '83 through '85 12A cars came with the beehive oil cooler. '79 through '82 cars came with the oil cooler mounted at the bottom of a shorter radiator. The '84-'85 13B cars had the same size radiator as the '83-'85 12A cars, but mounted the oil cooler in front of the radiator. Be sure you get the right length oil lines depending on which way you do your oil cooler. On a side note, if you use an oil cooler off a second gen, make sure you use oil lines for that oil cooler. Confused yet?

 

the oil lines came with the cooler i just couldnt figure out were to attach them, and now i know, now all i need is to remove the bolts on the front and rear irons.

 

Just scanned through this thread and figured i'd throw in my 2 cents just to reiterate what the others have said, toss everything that is related to the beehive, both the upper and lower section, then simply use that racing beat block along with teh 79-82 oil filter pedastal sitting under the glass in your picture. It appears to already have the longer studs needed to work with the racing beat block so just get some o-rings and your good.

As far as the coolant pipe on the rear iron cut the T off leaving enough of the pipe sticking out for your heater hose. Either do the same for the coolant "return" hose along the passneger frame rail or get the 79-82 (or GSL-SE) pipe and put that in its place.

I might have missed this but the easiest mounting solution for the oil cooler is to get teh shorter 79-82 rad and mount it like stock.

Just to confirm the lines for you, the short hose goes on teh top fitting of the cooler to the fitting on the front cover. The long line goes on the lower fitting on teh cooler to the rear iron, there is a plug in teh rear iron, just remove it and bolt the line in with a banjo bolt, be sure to use new crush washers on all the line fittings.

Hope that helped at least a bit

 

thanks to all your help is much appreciated! i didnt have much of a problem with the lines because this is from an fc and it came with the lines, so there long enough.

but alas, thanks again!