right now im running a lake city intake with my weber sidedraft. but im curious to how it will run differently compared to the wrap around one piece intakes. the short lake city intake puts the carb over by the fenderwell making the throttle cable barely reach, the choke cable not long enough to reach and the filter right next to the fenderwell. i love how it runs and the throttle responce but might change to the wrap around style. any input would be appreciated to the differences in performance that will happen with the change

 

A wrap around increases your intake length so it will move your power down
the rpm range. So you may lose some top end performance but get better
drivability down low in the rpm range.

 

I have the same curiosities. I dislike the LC intake for your same reasons, however I am not ready to get rid of it all together until I try the wrap around. My biggest gripe is the short throttle cable and having my gas pedal at the same level as the brake pedal. Too easy to press both at the same time!!

I have heard from others that the LC performs better in the higher RPMs and the wrap around is better in lower RPM which makes sence because the air horns on side drafts have the same effect... shorter horn more high RPM power, longer horn better low RPM

 

it drives great down low and has great mid range power.. and keeps pullin to 8k way better than stock did. i still think im a little lean cuz this carb came from up north and i live on the gulf coast at sea level.... its also a 40 and not a 45 or a 48. does anyone have any experience with the 1 piece wrap around manifold that rotary shack sells? this was the one i was wanting to switch to if i did it and sold my lake city intake

 

the throttle cable i made work using a shelf bracket that i formed into a throttle bracket off of one of the bolt holes. the choke cable isnt even close to reaching but it isnt needed. i can pump the gas twice and she fires right up when shes cold. also with the lake city theres no way to hook up the oil metering pump linkage. did u find a way to do it? here is a pic of how mine looks... please excuse the grungyness. cleaning is coming soon

 

I'm going to bite the bullet and get the rotary shack kit. Not right now, but as soon as my suspension is done and I get the exhaust, I'll get the rotaryshack oer kit.

 

If either of you guys get a wrap-around kit, I'm sure some folks here (ie: me) would like to get their hands on your lake cities stuff.

Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love my Sterling, but on a second FB I want to try a build that will get pretty much everything off the top of the engine. I really want to get a minimalist look going, and show off that keg shape that makes the pistonheads go "okay what the McCrap is that?".

I figure a Side-Draft with a Lake Cities manifold, an alternator relocation kit to put it down where the A/C pump or Power Steering would have been, get a "push" fan to put on the front side of the radiator instead of the inside, maybe an electric water pump so I can relocate that somewhere down low, battery relocation to the bins, re-wrap and tuck the wiring harness, and find a way to get a MegaSquirt in Ignition-Only mode to run an FC coil off a CAS for leading and plug the trailing.

Run fuel in a returnless setup to eliminate one hose, move the fuel pressure regulator so it's not front-and-centre...

And anything else I can think of that will get the top of that engine as bald and shiny as possible!

But that's for another car.... Some day, some day...

Jon

 

I can trade my Wrap around (got it from rotaryshack) for a LC manifold. Had one back in the day
but I ended up fabbing a throttle cable from a bicycle's brake line. You can get a sheath and 6'
line with barb for less than 5 bucks new.

 

Once this is done and people ask what type of engine it is, tell them is an electric engine...LOL

I think this would look great, I was gonna say the same thing until I read you post.

 

Try Japan2LA for the intake......the other supplier you mentioned needs a good guy bad guy search before you send any money.

 

i wouldnt want to trade. i love how it cleans up the engine bay and the way it performs, i just hate how all the cables and stuff are too short. ill prolly just use a motorcycle or bicycle cable as someone said to lengthen it. i was just asking the differences in performance id see between the two and if its even noticeable. if i was gonna switch id prolly just buy the rotary shack 1 piece wrap and keep mine for future projects. it would look great hanging off of the back of a sand rail dune buggy all shined up

 

does anyone make a shorter filter? thats my main prob is its like 1/4 inch from my fenderwell and touches sometimes i think when i launch and stuff

 

Some stiffer motor mounts would help with that. I went with hockey pucks; they're cheap and they work really well.

 

I used the lake cities manifold quite a bit and still own one. On the street with 37mm chokes it made more hp and the same torque as the racing beat manifold with 39mm chokes. The shorty LC really allows the motor to rev like it wants to.

I use a standard 3 1/4" tall K&N filter with K&N metal end plates zip tied together and it rests ontop of the frame rail. And rests against the fenderwell. Can't install the filter with the standard studs or bolts that go through the air filter baseplates. Tape over all 4 holes after installing zip ties.

Install new motor mounts if the motor is rocking. Build a good heat shield to go over the header, preferably double layered aluminum. Ceramic coat headers to reduce heat transfer if you can afford it.

You can have a shop build a throttle cable to your specs or use a bicycle brake cable like most of us cheapos here.

 

I think a mazda glc or 323 has a much longer cable. Check the wreckers.

 

cool deal.. good info guys. i was thinking about that heat shield cuz it was kinda cookin that intake laying right on the header. also it was a pita but i got that bolt into the k&n intake cover lol.... never thought of using the zip ties. im thinkin about gettin the foam socks that go over the velocity stacks maybe? and im gonna try a bicycle cable for the throttle and try to find a longer choke for a lawn mower... seems like ill keep the intake since everyone is saying ill prolly lose power with the longer intake. does anyone make a heat shield that would bolton maybe?

 

FYI racers kill for the lake cities intake manifolds. They make the best power if you're using a side draft carb. I would kill to get my hands on a lake cities if I wasn't hooked on IDA's now. IMHO don't even think about switching to a wrap around. like B-Rad said, work on a good heat shield to prevent heat soak into the intake manifold and carb and she'll run like a bat out of hell.

 

Three options for the heat shield,
1: RacingBeat $$$
2: I had fabbed one from an air bake non stick cookie sheet
3: Use header wrap (that's my solution)

 

heat shield... respeed?

 

Don't use header wrap unless you get the header coated first. I was using it for 2 years and the moisture that got tratpped started eating away at my RB header. If that thing wasn't so thick it would have ruined it.

 

Seconding Re-Speed.

 

sounds good. looks like im sticking to the lake cities intake. need to go find some longer cables i guess and make a heat shield. i guess next is to change this 40dcoe out for a bigger one. ive noticed noone is running this smaller size

 

Mine doesn't even see rain let alone any snow..

 

mine sees rain but theres no snow in texas... i just fixed my windshield wiper motor and btw before u think its the motor check the linkage and make sure its lubricated well and not frozen as mine was lol.. but gettin caught in the rain with no wipers and the tires im running was a major major no no lol

 

You need to at least paint the header with some very high heat exhaust paint before wrapping it if you want it to last.