Koni Yellow setting advice
10-28-17, 07:46 PM
#1
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Koni Yellow setting advice
Was wondering what settings (how many turns from lowing settings) others who are using the following set-up on FB front struts. Koni Yellows (MR2 reat struts) with RB springs. Car is driven pretty hard on street, and runs autocross. It is a second car but is daily some when weather is nice. Thanks is advance for advice.
11-19-17, 08:09 PM
#3
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find a place where you can "make a run", and then try full soft and then full stiff. since you know what full soft and full stiff is like, then try it in the middle, and you will know where to go from there.
11-20-17, 06:44 AM
#4
I have koni’s on my car I run full stiff on front and one turn from full stir on the rear I have 450# front springs and 250# rear springs and I also have a large front sway bar and no rear swaybar. What springs are you using ? What tires? Any other suspension mods?
11-20-17, 01:33 PM
#6
Silly question; Is there a rule of thumb for setting the shock adjustment? I set my tokicos to where it feels the most smooth and "planted" as in, the least amount of bounce-back and reaction to bumps. Which ended up being something like 1 or 2 rear, and 3 or 4 front. 150/275 springs and whiteline front bar on softest hole.
11-20-17, 03:09 PM
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
Yes there is a rule of thumb. The rear does not need much dampening compared to the frint because of the solid diff. Typical adjustable shocks for our cars wont be strong enough to overdamp the front and will over damp the rear
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11-20-17, 07:46 PM
#9
Rotary Enthusiast
After you experience whatever you try, try max adjust front, min rear and unhook the rear bar, just one side will do for testing. If nothing is wrong with your car i can almost guarantee your car will be better behaved.
11-21-17, 05:30 AM
#10
^ You talking to me? Yes done all that, tried all possible combos, don't have a rear bar, and am aware of the theory behind stiff front soft rear on these cars and the mechanical advantage the front suspension has over the front shocks and springs compared to the rear. I'm just wondering if there is a general rule of thumb as to adjusting shocks to your springs and car in general.
11-22-17, 12:42 PM
#11
As others have mentioned you really have to drive the car to find the right setting. While advertised as only providing rebound adjustment, when moving the **** on a Koni single adjustment shock/strut both rebound and compression are affected. The Tokicos are the same way however they seemed to have less of an effect on compression than adjusting a Koni does.
When setting my car up for a race track I like to set everything in the middle of the adjustment range and then tune from there. I have raced my car for a long time so I have a pretty fair idea of what I need. Anyway, the stuff I monitor is weight transfer when going from fast to slow and how the car transitions. I don't worry too much about weight transfer on corner exit because I have a rotary engine not a V8.
Too much weight transfer under braking means that you can't drive as deep into a corner so I start making adjustments to fix this first. Once I have that right, I focus on transitions. This is where I find I have to make compromises because dialing out too much weight transfer will effect the car's ability to change direction. This is also where I find myself wishing I had double adjustable struts/shock but that is another matter related to budget
One other thing, I never set the adjustment all the way firm or all the way soft. Instead, if I have to max out an adjustment, I always back it off about a 1/16" of a turn. I have heard that leaving the adjustment at it maximum setting either way is hard on the valve. May be BS.....just something I do. Oh, and under no circumstances ever let these shocks/struts bottom out.
When setting my car up for a race track I like to set everything in the middle of the adjustment range and then tune from there. I have raced my car for a long time so I have a pretty fair idea of what I need. Anyway, the stuff I monitor is weight transfer when going from fast to slow and how the car transitions. I don't worry too much about weight transfer on corner exit because I have a rotary engine not a V8.
Too much weight transfer under braking means that you can't drive as deep into a corner so I start making adjustments to fix this first. Once I have that right, I focus on transitions. This is where I find I have to make compromises because dialing out too much weight transfer will effect the car's ability to change direction. This is also where I find myself wishing I had double adjustable struts/shock but that is another matter related to budget
One other thing, I never set the adjustment all the way firm or all the way soft. Instead, if I have to max out an adjustment, I always back it off about a 1/16" of a turn. I have heard that leaving the adjustment at it maximum setting either way is hard on the valve. May be BS.....just something I do. Oh, and under no circumstances ever let these shocks/struts bottom out.