Starfox07

I'm gonna go with the Moog. I have a rule that any time something goes wrong on my car, I replace it with a better part.

I'm also doing my best to stay farrrr away from Mazdatrix. I have had NOTHING but bad experiences with them.

NAVILES16V

iTrader: (2)

You can get Moog anywhere...I got mine at O'reilly auto parts

Kentetsu

That is the same rule I use. If I have to replace a part, I upgrade. If I can't upgrade, then at the very least it gets cleaned and painted.

And yes, you can get the Moog anywhere. I was just pointing out that some specialty shops are peddling this thing as a special "race" part and charging a premium price for it. Shop around and you'll save serious money.

I have had one experience with Mazdatrix (flywheel bolt set and an oil cap). No issues with them, but that was only one experience.

Starfox07

Been at it replacing the idler arm and have run into a small hitch. I can't separate the lower part from the steering link (the big arm that goes across the width of the car, don't know what its called)

Any tips? I tried prying with a screwdriver and rapping it with a mini-sledge, no luck.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

You need the right tool. A ball joint fork works pretty well combined with a large hammer.

Starfox07

I don't have one

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

heat the area around the link with a map gas torch. get it good and hot. smack the threaded end with a hammer. or use a tie rod seperator when its good and hot. it'll free up. another trick is to smack the same area with a hammer when hot and before smacking it from the bottom or using a tie rod seperator.

Starfox07

I went out and rented a pitman arm removal tool and I have it on there. I've tightened it up a lot and I'm kind of nervous to go further because only one 'claw' has a really good hold on the center link arm. The idler arm still isn't budging...

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

If you don't have both arms on, don't risk it.

A lot of car-parts chains loan suspension tools for free, now. Have you checked out the local folk?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

pitman arm pullers are not always the best option in this particular case. use a tie rod seperator. rent it or buy one from a local auto parts store. with heat on the outside and that fork, the idler arm's ball joint wnd will pop right out. the tie rod seperators are like a fork. you put the forked und above the balljoint end in between the balljoint end and the metal drag link. hammer the opposing end of the fork and the upward pressure will cause the balljoint end to pop free.

Starfox07

Ah I got it. It gave one hell of a spring when it came out, but I am unharmed. I just put the puller on there and tightened it as much as I could then put the heat on it. Popped out after a while.

As per usual, it took something like 3 hours to remove the old parts and 15 mins to put in the new ones.

Kentetsu

lol, ain't that the way it always goes?

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

So using common sense I put the rubber bushing between the idler arm and the steering arm.

See pics for placement. I put it in the right place right....?

Also how often do the grease zerks get greased and how much goes in?

82FanTC

iTrader: (9)

where are you guys that have the moog idler arm....?

xShiFTx

iTrader: (5)

That is where I put my rubber bushing too. As for the zerk, not sure.

Starfox07

I didn't put that bushing in...it looked entirely pointless.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Leaving the nut in place after loosening it a few turns will prevent such things. Not nearly as exciting, though.

Starfox07

Danger is my middle name.

Kentetsu

I think that is more of a dust cover than a bushing. I believe mine has a soft rubber cover, rather than the hard plastic that yours appears to be.