Just got the car back on the road and have a few q's!
Just got the car back on the road and have a few q's!
okay, '84 GSL 12A.
I put another motor in this summer, now that I'm driving it again I've got some questions about weird stuff. . .
Its seems to be making this fast clicking noise from under the dash or the back of the engine compartment, drivers side. I only notice it at idle though. Its gets weirder because I also hear this sound from back around the antenna area in the hatch, so I'm thinking like some kind of antenna relay or something? I have no idea.
Also, the car backfires when I shift close to redline. It never used to do this before. Any ideas?
Finally, and I have posted this question before, does anybody know where the small nozzle that runs out the lower intake goes? It faces toward the back of the car, and the the non-nozzle end is connected to like the coupler with a buncha wires. I think its called the bypass air solenoid valve but I'm not really sure. I'll get some pics up soon so you know what I'm talking about.
One more thing, the car is hard to keep running when its cold. It starts up buck then acts like it runs out of fuel all the sudden. I have to start it about 3-4 times before it will stay running, and then only while I gas it for a few minutes..
other than that its grrreat to be back at the wheel.
I put another motor in this summer, now that I'm driving it again I've got some questions about weird stuff. . .
Its seems to be making this fast clicking noise from under the dash or the back of the engine compartment, drivers side. I only notice it at idle though. Its gets weirder because I also hear this sound from back around the antenna area in the hatch, so I'm thinking like some kind of antenna relay or something? I have no idea.
Also, the car backfires when I shift close to redline. It never used to do this before. Any ideas?
Finally, and I have posted this question before, does anybody know where the small nozzle that runs out the lower intake goes? It faces toward the back of the car, and the the non-nozzle end is connected to like the coupler with a buncha wires. I think its called the bypass air solenoid valve but I'm not really sure. I'll get some pics up soon so you know what I'm talking about.
One more thing, the car is hard to keep running when its cold. It starts up buck then acts like it runs out of fuel all the sudden. I have to start it about 3-4 times before it will stay running, and then only while I gas it for a few minutes..
other than that its grrreat to be back at the wheel.
Hooray, just for you Pardner...
Good to hear yuh bock up and runnin'...
Hard starting, poor idle if any, bucking and jumping?
All sound fuel related to me. Replace fuel filter? Disconnect line from fuel filter, and then from the carb. Shoot a few blasts of compressed air through the line till you know the line is clean. inlet lines to carb have little screens over 'em. clean 'em up with a toothbrush and brake/parts cleaner. Lubricate all carb mechanism, and in your case make sure that the choke mechanism is working properly. When starting my 12A I pull out the choke, fire it up and adjust the choke until we're runnin' about 2000 rpm. Let 'er run a minute or two, then take off, but not run hard until the choke "pops" back down.
A tip of the Stetson,
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib.
Good to hear yuh bock up and runnin'...
Hard starting, poor idle if any, bucking and jumping?
All sound fuel related to me. Replace fuel filter? Disconnect line from fuel filter, and then from the carb. Shoot a few blasts of compressed air through the line till you know the line is clean. inlet lines to carb have little screens over 'em. clean 'em up with a toothbrush and brake/parts cleaner. Lubricate all carb mechanism, and in your case make sure that the choke mechanism is working properly. When starting my 12A I pull out the choke, fire it up and adjust the choke until we're runnin' about 2000 rpm. Let 'er run a minute or two, then take off, but not run hard until the choke "pops" back down.
A tip of the Stetson,
Denny, from the 'ol corncrib.
Hey Suparslinc,
'bout that nozzle (*consults book*), I see a "port air switching valve", a three "check valve's", a "port air solenoid valve", and an "air control valve" in that area, so if you can get a photo posted that'd be good.
This isn't either the line to the ain monolith or the No 2 pre-monolith is it? Neither of those would cause backfiring though, I suppose.
'bout that nozzle (*consults book*), I see a "port air switching valve", a three "check valve's", a "port air solenoid valve", and an "air control valve" in that area, so if you can get a photo posted that'd be good.
This isn't either the line to the ain monolith or the No 2 pre-monolith is it? Neither of those would cause backfiring though, I suppose.
Look at the linkage on your carb where the acc cable hooks up. There will be a metal ear or tab taht juts out. What appears to be a vacuum pot solenoid with a rod pointing down to that ear is actually a dashpot mechanism that prevents the carb butterflies from snapping shut as you lift off the gas at redline. It's adjustable by screwing it closer or farther from that tab. Could be it's dead and needs to be replaced or worn so you need to adjust it closer to the tab. Enjoy, amigo
thanks alot everyone. I will be working on the car the next few days, probably will have more questions, I know the timing is off so I want to get that straightened out too. I have the pics of the valve I will post them tomorrow probably.
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It looks to me like the port air switching valve. At engine speeds between 3000 and 4000 rpm it "opens port air bypass passage during acceleration at a certain speed (Secondary air is injected to back of No.1 pre-monolith converter) - speed above 50 mph" - rough quote from the workshop manual. I wonder if that being disconnected contributes to backfire?
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