snwyvern

Hello, search has failed me and The Google refuses to show me a site I found a few months ago-- Anyway--

Does anybody have a link handy that specifies what gets soldiered where from the inside of the GM HEI ignitor to the inside of the J-109 ignitor?


... I tried.

Thanks.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

You don't solder anything, you can replace the J109 Ignitors with the Gm ones.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=ignitor

snwyvern

The internal bits can be interchanged between the two. It eliminates the install looking ugly, and keeps the 'stock' ignitor location intact. The thread you pointed me to has enough for me to figure out the internals.

Thanks.

snwyvern

I obliterated the J109 bodies when I took them apart-- I guess replacing the internals is out of the question now...

In looking at some of the stock wiring diagrams vs. the DLIDFIS setup-- Am I right that the only negative in the coil/ignitor signal sequence is the ignitor body to the chassis? Is that correct?


http://www.geocities.com/cd23c/diagram.html

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Why are people switching to the GM ignitors? Are the J109's that bad? You people do know that the GM ignitor is the scurge of the muscle car world. They hate those things and people do anything they can to eliminate or remove them.

snwyvern

I would fathom a guess at the fact that a new replacement J109 starts out around $170.00 whereas a *101 GM ignitor is ... $15.00.

So... from a troubleshooting perpsective, I can either spend $380.00 to find out if my initial diagnosis was correct, or $30.00.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

+1

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Or if you have rx-7 in a local junk yard I get my J109's for 2.50 each... You never mentioned you were having issues with the ignitor, you just asked how to replace the internals with ones from a GM ignitor. I'm not being an ******* this time I'm just asking the fuggin question. Is the GM ignitor better than teh j109 if so does that mean we could use the aftermarket ignitors muscle car guys use.

snwyvern

Well-- Theoretically, any magnetic pickup / 12v ignitor will work. Although, there's not much use in a "better" ignitor, as long as it can reliably tell the coil when to fire.

As far as using junkyard parts in a uncertian diagnosis-- I've been taught the hard way too many times to rely on the "good status" of junkyard parts while trying to troubleshoot. It just isn't worth the probable headache.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I don't think its better but its equivalent and easy to obtain and easy to use in
place of the J105 and J109. I'm planning on replacing my almost 30 year old
ignitors with them because I don't want to be on a cross country drive and have
them finally gasp their last. The GMs are so cheap you can get extras and carry
them with you as spares.

The big problem with the GM HEI isn't with the ignitors per se its with the coil
on distributor and hei module on the distributor. My understanding is this setup
causes a lot of noise and cross talk in the ignition which is always bad. So when
hotrod guys say they are trying to get away from HEI they really mean the coil on
distributor crap. I think the ignitors themselves work fine. I know several folks
on here using them and they aren't complaining about failures yet.

snwyvern

Just as a reference; "DR100" is equivilant to some of the *101 ignitors.

... 4 pin 12v.

snwyvern

12a, electronic ignition... Idles fine, sounds like muddy popcorn (afterburn, bogging back down to idle) when it's above 1500rpm. also: I'm getting some erratic tach signals... Any ideas?