interior plastic panels restored
06-02-03, 11:14 AM
#26
Originally posted by j9fd3s
nope, thats the stuff ive used. "burgandy" matches the red very well. the secret is removing all of the silicon/armorall from the surface. rubbing alcohol works well for that
mike
nope, thats the stuff ive used. "burgandy" matches the red very well. the secret is removing all of the silicon/armorall from the surface. rubbing alcohol works well for that
mike
What you do is put a few coats of the stuff on with a rag, then right after the last coat flashes, shoot your trim paint or dye.
The stuff is designed to slighly emulsify the plastic (Smells real bad...) and then when you shoot the paint on, it is actually drawn into the trim piece.
I used it when changing some red panels to black a few years back and it's still holding up great...
Also works well when painting exterior parts like air-dams bumpercovers, etc.
06-02-03, 01:10 PM
#29
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What a great topic. I'm also wanting some tips as to how to do a repair on my panels. I have a "rip" or "crack" in each side. This from an earlier vandalism attempt. The jerks were caught but now I need to repair these rips/cracks. Any suggestions as to how to repair the plastic would be greatly appreciated. Is there such a thing as plastic welding or bonding that can return back a natural looking finish?
Thanks.
Thanks.
06-02-03, 02:02 PM
#30
Originally posted by inittab
Wankelguy - How has it held up for ya? What kind of maintenance have you done to it?
Wankelguy - How has it held up for ya? What kind of maintenance have you done to it?
Great Tips!
02-18-04, 04:46 PM
#32
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I've had to do a few burgandy interiors as they always turn brown or green after long exposer to sunlight. Painting with vinyl paint works well if you can find the right colour match. Leather panel inserts and seat flaws can be reconditioned with leather shoe paint found at most shoe repair stores.Lots of colours available too.
02-19-04, 03:15 PM
#36
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this is a great thread. it sounds just like the inside of my rex (burgandy/white). i have a question. where is everyone buying the sem burgandy dye? i need to get some!
03-02-04, 10:58 PM
#41
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couple restoration things for plastic:
dyes: got to make sure you get everything off the surface before you dye it or it will just repel the dye (or just won't soak in, easily come off later). Meguiere's paint cleaner works really well for this.
painting: If you do a serious job of painting it you're probably going to lose the texture, but it will still look really nice. Of course, you could always just hose it down with some paint and act like nothing's wrong. For real paint, start with the paint cleaner, use a plastic-specific primer. plastic specific stuff is going to etch into the plastic a little (I noticed someone mentioned krylon fusion before, good stuff for this reason) and is also flexible (won't harden to a point where it will crack or chip later). From there paint as normal, most of the paints these days are fairly flexible. If not use a flex additive.
polishing out the scratches if you've done the steel wool trick: Novus Scratch Remover. It's made for polycarbonate and vinyl stuff, has the added benefit of working real well on acrylic. Stuff is very good.
My problem is the carpets. We finally just cut the carpet out of the back hatch because it was so bad it was creating burgandy dust on everything. I seriously doubt we can find a color that matches the rest of the carpet in the car, and I frankly know about dick about carpeting things anyway. Maybe I'll do some acrylic paneling or something back there. The rubber matting doesn't look all bad, but it doesn't exactly look great either (and the rest of the car does).
dyes: got to make sure you get everything off the surface before you dye it or it will just repel the dye (or just won't soak in, easily come off later). Meguiere's paint cleaner works really well for this.
painting: If you do a serious job of painting it you're probably going to lose the texture, but it will still look really nice. Of course, you could always just hose it down with some paint and act like nothing's wrong. For real paint, start with the paint cleaner, use a plastic-specific primer. plastic specific stuff is going to etch into the plastic a little (I noticed someone mentioned krylon fusion before, good stuff for this reason) and is also flexible (won't harden to a point where it will crack or chip later). From there paint as normal, most of the paints these days are fairly flexible. If not use a flex additive.
polishing out the scratches if you've done the steel wool trick: Novus Scratch Remover. It's made for polycarbonate and vinyl stuff, has the added benefit of working real well on acrylic. Stuff is very good.
My problem is the carpets. We finally just cut the carpet out of the back hatch because it was so bad it was creating burgandy dust on everything. I seriously doubt we can find a color that matches the rest of the carpet in the car, and I frankly know about dick about carpeting things anyway. Maybe I'll do some acrylic paneling or something back there. The rubber matting doesn't look all bad, but it doesn't exactly look great either (and the rest of the car does).
05-20-04, 06:22 PM
#42
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What grit of sandpaper should I start out with on the white plastic around the hatch? I have some steel wool as well, but it sounds like I should start with sand paper and then finish with steel wool.
Also when using the Krylon Fusion to paint my shifter cover/stereo surround, do I need any kind of primer? The Kyrlon site says you just spray it, no sanding or priming...anyone tried it?
Also when using the Krylon Fusion to paint my shifter cover/stereo surround, do I need any kind of primer? The Kyrlon site says you just spray it, no sanding or priming...anyone tried it?
05-20-04, 07:46 PM
#44
I read your email
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Hadoken
What grit of sandpaper should I start out with on the white plastic around the hatch? I have some steel wool as well, but it sounds like I should start with sand paper and then finish with steel wool.
What grit of sandpaper should I start out with on the white plastic around the hatch? I have some steel wool as well, but it sounds like I should start with sand paper and then finish with steel wool.
05-20-04, 09:01 PM
#45
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I had a good deal of luck using a 3M ScotchBrite pad, with a light touch. The steel wool didn't seem to be rough enough, and the sandpaper I had was all a little too scratchy.
05-21-04, 01:17 PM
#49
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On my 1979 Rx-7 I have a brown and orange dash. Over time the orange plastic parts of the dash turned kind of a sick yellow color. I went to a local automotive paint store along with a piece of the dash and they were able to color match almost perfectly a can of "Dupont/Lucite Vinyl Color". After treating the effected dash pieces with "Sema Vinyl Prep", I spray painted the dash pieces with several very light coats of the Vinyl Color. It turned out great and the dash looks new. Should work as well with the rear pannels. The store I went to, charged me $20 for the color match and I think the rest of the supplies were under $75. Usually the back of the plastic piece is unaffected by color change and can be easily matched by a competent paint person.
05-21-04, 01:19 PM
#50
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How do I get the rear panels out? I got all the screws out but had to stop when I ran into a little snap-on thing at the rear of the panels. I didn't want to break anything so I stopped. How do I finish removing the panels?