interior plastic panels restored
05-31-03, 01:15 PM
#1
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interior plastic panels restored
My back hatch area interior panels were seriously faded and turned white. They made my otherwise nice interior look like ****. I wanted to restored them or at the very lest make them look better. When I initially started this project my intention was to clean up the parts and then rattle-can 'em with this "interior dye" stuff that I got at my local auto store. My hope was that the color would be close to stock. I tested the dye on the back of one of the panels to see how it would look. I wasn't too impressed. The color didn't match as well as I would have hoped and even after letting it dry for several days you could run your finger nail across it and the "dye" would come right off. Oh well, I figured it would just haffa do so I started working. I wanted the dye to have something to stick to so I roughed up the surface of the plastic with some 330 grit sandpaper. When I did this I noticed that the white "dead plastic" started to come off pretty easy and the original color was revealed underneath. That made me wonder... what if I just took off all that white crap? what would it look like? The sandpaper, even though it was a fine grit was leaving scratches in the plastic so I immediately switched to steel-wool. Size "00" to be precise. It didn't leave nearly as much scratches in the plastic. So anyway, I worked the steel-wool for quite a while and to my surprise the panel came out awesome! Some of the textured parts of the panel are now smooth but overall it looks pretty damn good IMO. 
After my arm recovers 
I'm gonna do the other one.
--Bob
After my arm recovers I'm gonna do the other one. --Bob
Last edited by inittab; 11-25-03 at 06:27 PM.
05-31-03, 02:02 PM
#2
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This is a significant post. I have been reading a lot of magazines and books on restoring and rare is it that faded plastic panels are addressed. Most say "Buy a replacement!" The panel looks great! Thanks for a superb tip, this one is getting 5 stars...
05-31-03, 05:22 PM
#5
I read your email
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There are still some fine scratches in the surface but they aren't that bad at all. I think I'm gonna pick up some 000 ultra fine steel-wool and go over each piece with that. I might give that shoe polish idea a try too. Does anyone have any other ideas for "polishing plastic"? What about using some sort of buffing wheel?
One note, I started on the other piece using just the steel-wool and it was sloooow going. I ended up using the sandpaper again to loosen up the dead plastic. Still work'n on it but it's look'n good so far.
One note, I started on the other piece using just the steel-wool and it was sloooow going. I ended up using the sandpaper again to loosen up the dead plastic. Still work'n on it but it's look'n good so far.
05-31-03, 05:39 PM
#6
Senior Member
I don't have ideas for "polishing plastic", but a look into the Eastwood Company web site / catalog might lead to something. They have all sorts of stuff for restorations. www.eastwoodco.com
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05-31-03, 07:53 PM
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i'll have to try that next time. i have found a good matching dye for the red, and it holds up really well (3 years and counting).
mike
mike
05-31-03, 08:02 PM
#9
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I just gave my rear panels a look today and never noticed they were faded almost to pure white on the wheel well covers. hmm... might give this a try, great thread.
05-31-03, 09:39 PM
#10
Admitted 'rexaholic'
I used SEM dye, was redder than the original brown, but much more attractive. Stuff stays on, too. I might have tried the steel wool trick first, though, if I had known. If you have a brown interior, I highly reccomend the SEM "Coffee Mocha". I ended up doing the entire inside with it, then a coat of SEM clear coat. Looks absoutely brand new!
05-31-03, 11:01 PM
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ahh this thread is wonderful, good job man, my burgandy back panels are nearly completely white, and always wondered what to do with them.... this is my perfect sunday project!
05-31-03, 11:14 PM
#13
www.AusRotary.com
you can polish plastic using a light buffing machine (low revs) - the same as jewellers use for gold & platinum. The buffing compound itself can be found at hardware stores - its usually blue, and specifies jewellery/plastic.
An actual buffing machine that use for metals would melt the plastic of course.
An actual buffing machine that use for metals would melt the plastic of course.
05-31-03, 11:35 PM
#14
I read your email
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Originally posted by mwpayne
I used SEM dye, was redder than the original brown, but much more attractive. Stuff stays on, too. I might have tried the steel wool trick first, though, if I had known. If you have a brown interior, I highly reccomend the SEM "Coffee Mocha". I ended up doing the entire inside with it, then a coat of SEM clear coat. Looks absoutely brand new!
I used SEM dye, was redder than the original brown, but much more attractive. Stuff stays on, too. I might have tried the steel wool trick first, though, if I had known. If you have a brown interior, I highly reccomend the SEM "Coffee Mocha". I ended up doing the entire inside with it, then a coat of SEM clear coat. Looks absoutely brand new!
06-01-03, 01:37 AM
#16
Admitted 'rexaholic'
Nope, the SEM dye is solid. Especially when you put some clear coat over it. I haven't tried the fingernail test, but I have cleaned the dash several times with a windex-type cleaner and a surgical rag (they're a bit rough). No dye came off at all. It should be mentioned that it is CRITICAL to follow the instructions on the can exactly. A friend of mine used some on a pickup, did it when the temps outside were about 50 degrees and damp. He also was in a hurry. Looked like crap.
Do it right, take your time, you'll be pleased.
Do it right, take your time, you'll be pleased.
06-01-03, 07:11 AM
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Try Turtle Wax "Formula 2001"
I used this stuff on the black plastic crud for my motorcycle. Works great and restores the color. Of course, the older stuff might take a couple coats. I'll try and get a picture of a before and after....
I used this stuff on the black plastic crud for my motorcycle. Works great and restores the color. Of course, the older stuff might take a couple coats. I'll try and get a picture of a before and after....
06-01-03, 11:43 AM
#19
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Originally posted by inittab
So that SEM dye doesn't come off if you run your finger nail across it?
So that SEM dye doesn't come off if you run your finger nail across it?
mike
06-01-03, 11:45 AM
#20
I read your email
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Originally posted by j9fd3s
nope, thats the stuff ive used. "burgandy" matches the red very well. the secret is removing all of the silicon/armorall from the surface. rubbing alcohol works well for that
mike
nope, thats the stuff ive used. "burgandy" matches the red very well. the secret is removing all of the silicon/armorall from the surface. rubbing alcohol works well for that
mike
BTW, I just reinstalled everything. Looks damn good!
06-01-03, 12:00 PM
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Originally posted by inittab
hmm... well the stuff that I bought must've been crap then. It was VHT brand.
BTW, I just reinstalled everything. Looks damn good!
hmm... well the stuff that I bought must've been crap then. It was VHT brand.
BTW, I just reinstalled everything. Looks damn good!
06-01-03, 11:32 PM
#24
Originally posted by j9fd3s
nope, thats the stuff ive used. "burgandy" matches the red very well. the secret is removing all of the silicon/armorall from the surface. rubbing alcohol works well for that
mike
nope, thats the stuff ive used. "burgandy" matches the red very well. the secret is removing all of the silicon/armorall from the surface. rubbing alcohol works well for that
mike
