1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Interested in buying a 1st Gen---Help!

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Old 04-09-14, 02:20 AM
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Interested in buying a 1st Gen---Help!

Hi, I was shopping for cars on craigslist, and I came across this car. I love this style! However, I'm a Type 1 VW guy, and I don't know much about the RX7 and what they're worth in this condition (or what I should be looking for).

Oh, I also found this buyers guide, which seems to have some very useful information.

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks!
Old 04-09-14, 06:28 AM
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Wow, where to begin? I'd say that being in Calif, keep the EPA emission requirement in the forefront of your thoughts. Other members here can attest to the hoops that must be routinely jumped through to achieve compliance. That being said, I'd first decide on what generation of RX-7 you like best. SA's (79-80) FB's (81-85) FC's & FD's. The 2 letter code refers to the first two digets of the vehicles VIN, which changed over the years.

They are also commonly refered to by generation, 1st gen, 2nd gen, 3rd gen or by series, series 1, series 2 ect.... The SA's (like the one you found) are the basic, more pure, no frills sports cars. Lighter, more basic they are valued as the original version of the type before they became more packed with electronic equipment and creature comforts. Later versions did benefit from power enhancements, and suspension / brake upgrades.

Whichever generation trips your trigger, bear in mind that these are all 30 something year old machines that may have went through several owners, some of which may have modified the car in some way with varing degrees of money and ability. Its not uncommon to upgrade early cars with suspension, brake or engine components from later generation cars.

The one you link to, looks like an early (1978) build SA. The speaker dash, dash trim and door cards give it away. Nice SA's are becomming less available these days. Its a GS model w/a 5 speed and looks pretty stock. Its a non-sunroof car which is a deal breaker for some. I think its an original california car too. (produced with Calif specific emissions equipment) I'd want to know if the stock emission / exhaust equipment are all still there and in operating order? When was the last time it passed smog? From there, how does it run? does it blow any smoke at cold start up? These have a form of oil injection (like old 2 strokes) and some smoke can be common. Excessive smoke could mean you need to replace the engines soft seals and gaskets or possibly worse. Regardless, I'd be looking at one, more as of project for fun, a toy or 2nd car as opposed to my main mode of transportation. Good luck with your search and welcome aboard!
Old 04-09-14, 08:51 AM
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Thank you for the tips. I'm not looking for it to be my daily driver, however, it would be my main mode of transportation. I usually walk to work, and ride my bike to do in-town chores. The car would more likely be my weekend transportation.

Honestly, I wasn't looking for a specific car when I started my search, this one just popped up and I was immediately intrigued by it. I'm going to look at it--and another car--today, and I just wanted to do my due diligence before I made any decisions.

This Motortrend article says I should expect to spend between 3000-6000 on a 1979 GS, so I suppose this persons pricing is right in line with the lower end of that scale. It seems customary to offer an obscene amount less than the asking price when dealing through Craigslist. I really dislike bargaining! The asking price on this car is about $500 dollars more than I wanted to spend, so I really have to think about this one...and I'll probably have to do some bargaining. Oof.

Anyway, I'm going to see it at 10am, and if I get it, I guess you can expect to see me around this forum more often. Thanks!
Old 04-09-14, 11:31 AM
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Prices can range from under $1000 to 10K. Generally, a decent or average SA will run around$2,500-$3000. A very nice, clean example adds value and low miles adds more value. Most excellent, low mile examples top out around 5-6K, at that price buyers become pretty scarce. These cars are just not widly considered collectable at this time and have more of a loyal, rabid, "Rotary enthusist" following.

Your car looks fairly stock mechanically, but cosmetically, it has been accented with the smurf blue aftermarket wheels and painted center console. No idea, what else may have been done but it is missing the rear interior fender covers??? Look for rust on the battery tray (what it sits on) and under the pannel behind the seats (some disassembly required). Other areas to inspect would be the bottom of the channel to the rear hatch. It has drain holes/tubes that can get clogged, create a back up of sitting water and ultimately rust. The rear hatch struts tend to lose their charge over time and not support the weight of the glass hatch anymore and the power antenna cable tends to get brittle and break, leaving the antenna unable to extend and retract. Your best bet would be to take some detailed pictures inside, outside and under the hood and post them back here. I'm sure you'd get lots of opinion and advice.
Old 04-09-14, 04:59 PM
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Welp... It wasn't as nice looking as the pictures looked. The exterior wasn't even close to 10/10. It was a lot closer to 5-6/10, and the interior was probably closer to 6/10 as well. It had terrible exhaust leaks on a modified pipe, that admittedly, "didn't have all the welds done properly." The brakes went all the way down to the floor, and felt very unsafe. Oh, and the e-brake wasn't connected. Yikes. I wouldn't have even paid a $1000 for it.

Thanks for your help..I guess I won't be joining in at this time, but you never know!
Old 04-10-14, 01:50 AM
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We'll be here.
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