This isnt rx7matt i dunno whats wrong but anyways i have a 85 gsl with a newly rebuilt carb. the guy who rebuilt it rigged my secondaries so they open up as soon as i floor the pedal. some one told me that to account for the increased gas i should get an aftermarket open breather. could i just drill holes on the top of the stock breather outside the airfilter so more air could get in? can i do this ont he bottom too? thanks

 

You can. Any more holes equals more air. Some people just remove large portions of the sides of the filter housing.

BTW, if you're not rx7matt, you need to log off and log back on as yourself. That way people know who to get ahold of for this problem for future reference.

Brian

 

also can remove the flapper and little coil on air assembly it has been dynoed to make an extra 5 horse.

 

i took a spinning cutting wheel from hell to my airbox and was pleased with the results

 

Dang! I didn't remove the coil! Now I know why I didn't get those 5 ponies.

 

http://www.milisake.com/gallery/view...L&id=airfilter

Done mine already. Ran out of cutting wheels otherwise would chop more off. Make sure you thoroughly clean out the housing before putting the filter back in and running the engine. Wouldn't want to suck in any metal particles.

 

go to http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/

and look at their cold intake, it takes about 3 or 4 hours and 30 bucks to fabricate

 

damn.......

any way go to http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/ and look there

 

Great writeup! The only thing I take issue with is the 'pinch and roll' method of making the insulation ducting 'leaner'. The writeup states 'why let all that insulation be puffy when you can make it lean?'

The answer is that it's the insulation's 'puffiness' that makes it insulate. The air trapped in the fibreglass foam prevents the heat from transmitting the way it would through solid material - by packing it tightly down to make it 'leaner' you're greatly reducing its insular properties.

Other than that, neat stuff!

 

Also get a better flowing element (K&N etc.) That is actually more important.

 

I would go with building the cold air intake and a K&N filter.

 

Once I clean my K&N element, that's actually the next dyno test session. The new paper air filter is sitting in red rex not getting miles, so it should be a valid series of runs come dyno day...

Just what IS a K&N filter worth in HP on a stock, carb'd 12A?

 

i still say...if you want the best air flow do the cold intake...but instead of using the stock canister on top...mod your carb so you can fit a pipe going right to it...then put one of those cone air intakes at the front infront of the rad...bam!! you got yo' self a new intake which will kick ***...

i have found that the "holes in the canister" idea does nothing except get the element dirtier faster...and make it look goofy, if you want to go that route...go get an elelbrock airfilter cover or the one RB sells...otherwise......cold air all the way baby!!!!

 

I agree with everyone on the cold air intake, but recommend against a K&N filter. Sure they let more air through and give you more power, but they also let just about anything else through too. In my experience, and the experience of all my racing friends, the damage done to the engine by a K&N isn't worth the miniscule power gains made by using one. When I am poor I run Fram, when I have money I run Wix.

 

How about kool blue?

 

They certainly sound good, but I don't have any experience with them. No one I know does either, so... Maybe!

 

its been ported, and its idling to slow

 

its been ported, and its idling to slow

 

Basically the same thing as a K&N. I'm using a kool blue on mine just since it was $15 cheaper.

 

can the 12a be ram aired? would that help or what would it do?

 

Your a pretty smart guy. You get the prize for catching that error. That was pratch taking artistic license in his verbage. I ignored it mainly because you really do need to squeeze it down to a manageable size. It runs too close to the belts and such and I dont wanna hear of someone having a problem when it gets caught in the belts and pulled into the fan.

In practice it does work as advertised, even with it "leaned" out. The drop in inlet temp and engine coolant temp is nothing short of amazing.

 

*adds cold air intake to the 'to do REALLY soon' list*



-Cheers

 

dp.. BAH

 

Take your factory round air filter holder to a vice & drill 1/2 inch holes all round 3 rows. I did this w/ a K&N & my manual secondaries kick in like a ball of fire. Like a turbo at 4g.